Goodbye dmax world

[PAT]

seems like your truck frustration is getting the best of you:thumb: Your first mistake was buying Jordan's truck second was the II pump...looks to me you never did your homework:hug:

Haha all of Jordan's shit is out of
This truck. From the
Motor, to trans. But that ii pump was a joke.

 

[3 1/2 tons of fun]

I think that guy is on this site. Or maybe it's a different diesel site i get on.

Jarod, a member on performancetrucks.net goes by stock48. Its a gasser primarily Chevy site that I've been on for years before I discovered this one

 

[hondarider552]

I leark around on PT as well, seen that truck before, as well as "paco's 5.3" doing to bonneville 200mph club on a stock engine.

 

[dordtrecht5]

Cost me 5500 to build my short block

I don't doubt you received a great deal. Where I'm coming from is: $2600 for aftermarket rods; $1200 aftermarket pistons; $1000 for an aftermarket cam (kinda needed for a big single is you like to get the most out of it for DD use, but not a must); machine work upwards of $2500 and that includes key and assembly, and that price comes from a reputable shop with good experience. That doesn't include valve springs or any of the extra stuff that you mentioned. Nor does it include an extra engine, or at least a block, unless you wanna ride your bike or borrow Mom's car while yours is out of the truck getting built.

I'm sure that I could cut some costs, I'm simply quoting some prices that I e been given and what I see on some of the guy's sites that support this forum. If that's their price, it is what it is. In doing the homework it adds up quick, everybody knows that and Tony has valid points. I think most, of not all, of the supporters would help a guy out to cut costs when they are able, but it does cost to play and everyone has bills, including shops.

 

[Chevy1925]

I consider these things all the time. It certainly isn't cheap and my wallet, just like many here, isn't heavy. Just a good short block build, in this game, sets a person back at the lowest $10,000. Are you kidding me? The cost is near 3-1 unless you're going über-build.

I don't doubt you received a great deal. Where I'm coming from is: $2600 for aftermarket rods; $1200 aftermarket pistons; $1000 for an aftermarket cam (kinda needed for a big single is you like to get the most out of it for DD use, but not a must); machine work upwards of $2500 and that includes key and assembly, and that price comes from a reputable shop with good experience. That doesn't include valve springs or any of the extra stuff that you mentioned. Nor does it include an extra engine, or at least a block, unless you wanna ride your bike or borrow Mom's car while yours is out of the truck getting built.

I'm sure that I could cut some costs, I'm simply quoting some prices that I e been given and what I see on some of the guy's sites that support this forum. If that's their price, it is what it is. In doing the homework it adds up quick, everybody knows that and Tony has valid points. I think most, of not all, of the supporters would help a guy out to cut costs when they are able, but it does cost to play and everyone has bills, including shops.

You said for a good short block. For a good short block it can be done for what i said. You want to add the extra frills then yes it adds up. If it couldnt be done, i wouldnt have posted it.

There is no doubt overhead and r&d play a big roll in prices but it dont mean we are stuck at one price for a good motor. Guess im the guinny pig and will see how long my el cheapo motor lasts though i trent has done far more of these same builds as mine for not much more.

 

[hondarider552]

James, I also think the price you paid for those Crowers definately helped keep the cost a bit lower as well.

 

[dordtrecht5]

You're right, I said "a good short block." I guess it depends on what good means to the few instead of the many. This is one reason I told a builder, who is member here, that I don't wanna worry about disaster on, what i would consider, a not so good build. Which is cheaper in the long run? I don't know the answer to that question, a guy can spend more than I quote and do "all the bells and whistles" and still have disaster strike at any time. However, I don't think anyone would argue that with the right builder, that is less likely to happen unless you DD like a friggin idiot. I'm not at all saying that you didn't get a good build, I was just clarifying from where I'm coming when I say "good build." that's what I'm considering a good build for a daily driven hot rod with a big single turbo, or a nice twin/triple kit.

 

[Chevy1925]

James, I also think the price you paid for those Crowers definately helped keep the cost a bit lower as well.

where i saved on those was lossed on a few other purchaces that cost more than other places but with good reason behind it. had i chose to go another route, i would have saved more but chose not to due to my inexperience and having a quick respones of "ok, lets do it"

You're right, I said "a good short block." I guess it depends on what good means to the few instead of the many. This is one reason I told a builder, who is member here, that I don't wanna worry about disaster on, what i would consider, a not so good build. Which is cheaper in the long run? I don't know the answer to that question, a guy can spend more than I quote and do "all the bells and whistles" and still have disaster strike at any time. However, I don't think anyone would argue that with the right builder, that is less likely to happen unless you DD like a friggin idiot. I'm not at all saying that you didn't get a good build, I was just clarifying from where I'm coming when I say "good build." that's what I'm considering a good build for a daily driven hot rod with a big single turbo, or a nice twin/triple kit.

it can still be done for less than 10k for what you posted. Hell i bought dual CP3s, new injectors and 45% over tips and was still under 10k. not by much but it was still there.

My whole thing is people say it cant be done for a certain price and be done right. i dont think its so. IMOP, i have a short block that will hold 800hp reliably based on others findings and short falls. tuning,turbo/s and fuel all play a part in that as well though.

 

[KEVINL]

I had my fun with my last duramax this one is staying stock. Not because I cant afford to but because I have nothing to prove

 

[Mikey]

What is the fuel economy comparisons between an 800hp duramax and a 800hp LS turbo motor with a crew cab?

 

[Kartmnn]

Seems to me the mpg arguement all comes out in the wash. Diesel gets better mpg but cost 75 cents more a gallon in some places and what the gas loses in mpg it makes up with cheaper oil changes, fuel filters, etc. Speaking of MPGs, my fuel milage sucks in the midwest states. Its because of the bio-diesel right?

 

[PAT]

You said for a good short block. For a good short block it can be done for what i said. You want to add the extra frills then yes it adds up. If it couldnt be done, i wouldnt have posted it.

There is no doubt overhead and r&d play a big roll in prices but it dont mean we are stuck at one price for a good motor. Guess im the guinny pig and will see how long my el cheapo motor lasts though i trent has done far more of these same builds as mine for not much more.

The cheapest I could foresee is what I put in mine. Rods, balance and cut pistons.

 

[PAT]

What is the fuel economy comparisons between an 800hp duramax and a 800hp LS turbo motor with a crew cab?

Haha about 12mpg vs 20mpg lol
Gas is cheaper though. As is everything involved with preventative maintenance. Even insurance is cheaper lol

 

[TeaBagger2006]

The problem I see is that all of you drive lb7/lly's trucks! Everybody knows lbz platform is the best

 

[Atouchofgrass]

It's okay pat, i just went through the same thing 3 weeks ago. I was going to go back to the old days and mod cars. Consisting of lowering with a nice set of wheels. Although it would have been a 964 porsche...

 

[kjp800]

I've been thinking of this more and more too. I bought a 99 5.3 w a blown 60e to use as a beater while I build my lly, I ended up putting a 80e in it (just incase) and the more I think about it throwing a turbo on it and giving her hell would be a lot of fun. I just have to hope I don't end up with 2 projects/money pits

 

[PAT]

Haha well two money pits wouldn't work. I'm 100% sure that it's the route I'm gonna take. I will miss the community here though that's for sure. But Owell.

 

[PAT]

The problem I see is that all of you drive lb7/lly's trucks! Everybody knows lbz platform is the best

Ouch.

Ha why? So we can crack a piston and bend rods before we can run more than one 11.5x? $400 junkyard motor that holds more than an LBZ is a little more up my ally

 

['03duramax]

I'm with you man, I'll always have at least one Dmax, but I'm going back to hotrods and musclecars. I've even considered selling my RC to get another Nova or something light. The deciding factor for me was that it only took an hour to pull the top end off of my Elco last week. I can't do anything to my truck in an hour. Obviously the high cost of a built motor plays a large part too.

 

[Josh2002cc]

I am with you Pat except I got into boating. Sure it costs money but no more busting ass after driving 3-6 hours to some podunk town to pull for 10 seconds and bake in the heat/humidity. Now, I spend the money driving to the lake and whatever is left goes to pay for the beers I drink while relaxing on/in the water. I will still do my rebuilding but nothing more than stock or normal run of the mill upgrades.