girdle helpfull or not?
- Thread starter juddski88
- Start date
at RMR they were low mid to low 11's on street tires so 60's probably sucked. dont remember the trap speed 12# . but fuel only they were 12.0 range, and 2 stages of go juice . just going of memory its been a while .
Stock cap and ARP studs here.
A Girdle and Billet caps could help but this a deep skirted block with side bolts. I am just not sure your going to see an improvement as the block itself is most likely the weak link.
A Girdle and Billet caps could help but this a deep skirted block with side bolts. I am just not sure your going to see an improvement as the block itself is most likely the weak link.
Billet ones coon assHow do you hold the crank in the block, bubble gum?
Guess I should have said gridle. Hell that thing is so fast it doesn't need a crank, those big friggin turbos can blow hard enough to move it by themselves.
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How do you hold the crank in the block, bubble gum?
You sound like one move eveyday.
oke: Should have stayed in Mtn Home.Maybe all you northwesterners should move down here. The weather is a lot nicer... :book:You sound like one move eveyday.
IMHO, the girdle on a deep skirted block is a band aid you use "before" you go to a billet main cap. As far as the block being weak, aluminum blocks hold together just fine with out girdles, but they do have billet main caps.
Billet main caps on a Duramax are a little harder to install than just a gridle. The block must be align bored to match the new caps to the block. This must be done by a qualified machinist with the right equipment, other wise he could alter the center to center distance between the cam and the crank and then your gear drives up front don't want to line up.
Most shops don't have the ability to align bore, only align hone.
Billet main caps on a Duramax are a little harder to install than just a gridle. The block must be align bored to match the new caps to the block. This must be done by a qualified machinist with the right equipment, other wise he could alter the center to center distance between the cam and the crank and then your gear drives up front don't want to line up.
Most shops don't have the ability to align bore, only align hone.
I see it this way.... If you have the $$$ to build a 1000hp-ish truck and your worried about it with billet mains and such...and might push more HP.....Then a girdle is a lil extra insurance added in. As said, not as much as a big deal on a 4-bolt/+crossbolted mains engine. Our RPM band IMO, lessens the need for one a tad bit. For myself, one day ill get a motor build goin, and built-to-the-hilt! I plan on using a girdle. The more stable things are=the better. Cant hurt. I do know, our Arias T/A engine, has a massive
$5,000+ billet steel Velasco crank, prolly stouter than a Dmax crank. So tough, it ate 7 of our machinist expensive bits when he drilled it for balencing. We had a hi-gear launch once and it loaded up bad and deflected the crank into a "wave" pattern and destroyed the thrust main bearing (coated Calico's) and burned the rest. That motor has no girdle! Unimagineable things can happen
As far as dry-sumps....Prolly not much need for it by most of us all. Its an expensive route to go. Tank, lines, pump, oilpan, etc are pricy and it takes up quite a bit of valuable room under the hood. Its been done though. Curtis and Banks comes to mind. Special/deticated machines. It is a fantastic oiling system though and some extra power gained. Less oil windage, usually applys decent crankcase vaccum which helps piston rings seal better= more power. And more ground clearance.
Crank scrapers and windage trays are cheaper small gains alternatives. Theres alot in the hi-po diesel world i havent heared mentioning of yet. Like, oil shedding coatings, stress reliving, knife-edgeing/bullnoseing, profiling, etc. Theres alot of tricks we can apply to our diesels that are more common to the gasser world.
Maybe people are staying tight-lipped
$5,000+ billet steel Velasco crank, prolly stouter than a Dmax crank. So tough, it ate 7 of our machinist expensive bits when he drilled it for balencing. We had a hi-gear launch once and it loaded up bad and deflected the crank into a "wave" pattern and destroyed the thrust main bearing (coated Calico's) and burned the rest. That motor has no girdle! Unimagineable things can happen
As far as dry-sumps....Prolly not much need for it by most of us all. Its an expensive route to go. Tank, lines, pump, oilpan, etc are pricy and it takes up quite a bit of valuable room under the hood. Its been done though. Curtis and Banks comes to mind. Special/deticated machines. It is a fantastic oiling system though and some extra power gained. Less oil windage, usually applys decent crankcase vaccum which helps piston rings seal better= more power. And more ground clearance.
Crank scrapers and windage trays are cheaper small gains alternatives. Theres alot in the hi-po diesel world i havent heared mentioning of yet. Like, oil shedding coatings, stress reliving, knife-edgeing/bullnoseing, profiling, etc. Theres alot of tricks we can apply to our diesels that are more common to the gasser world.
Maybe people are staying tight-lipped
you have got to be chittin me. Hurricanes, tornados, hail the size of soft balls, ticks, chiggers, rattle snakes the size of rain gutters, everything has thorns that could pierce your heart. No, you can keep your "nice" weather.
Thanks for giving us, (as least me) an lesson. I know we didn't go with the girdle and thats about all I know.
thanks Chris and Guy. i am with you Chris though, the more things we can adopt over from the high-performance gasser world, the more Hp we can achieve even easier than before. I mean, I understand the POV that what we have is good enough or it'll do or whatever. but why spend so much money on something that hasn't had everything taken under consideration like machining the crank and using a girdle...or in Johnboy's experience, using studs in the rocker bridges and so on. to me, it is better money spent making power more easily achievable than just making a ton of power that could break something.
:hug:No prob!And, think were seein the same pictures!:spit: I look at almost everything and think or see if theres some way of improving it. I cant leave anything alone:rofl: Love creating successful ideas. I love getting ideas from others to try aswell. Its fun and somtimes worthwhile to think outside the box. I can flip through a jegs cataloge and see things for other vehicles and see how or if it can be utilized by a diesel. I decided i wanted a lift pump and robbed the pump off my malibu drag car. Never marketed as a diesel part, but it works like a champ! I have a small speed shop worth of race stuff from our cars and i can prolly find a way to use a good bit of it!
Myself, I most deffinatly prefer to over-build and go the extra steps, like girdles, studs, etc. If it cant hurt and i can pay for it or do/wait a bit extra to get it.....then thats what i do! :bananallama:
Billet ones coon ass
:rofl:
I was saying that you will see alot more 900+hp Cummins that are dyno queens than you will Duramax's. I'm not saying there aren't a good amount 900+hp Cummins that are raced and pulled. Most of the Duramax's guys that are 900+ seem to get called out and eventually take it to the track and/or sled pull. That's just he way it seems to me.
IMO most dmaxes don't dyno with a darn, not sure why but I could never build much boost on any dyno, damn near burned up my brakes trying. Not sure if it's because the heads flow so well or what. Totally different story on the track.
I couldn't agree more - and that's one of the reason the big power Duramax's rarely get on the dyno. Duramax's prove themselves at the track. I can't remember where but I read a thread about Cummins heads and guys were talking about how they had more boost and dynoed more with stock heads and that P&P heads were a waste of money and all of this. I couldn't help but sit back and laugh at the fact that they didn't take it to the track for testing and didn't realize that less boost (from the same turbo setup) meant less restrictions, more volume and better airflow.
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That's and trying to keep it on the rollers is the main reasons we haven't had Max'd Out on the dyno. Will tune it at the track.