Fueling issues.
- Thread starter minerigger
- Start date
Just saw this on a LBZ check the fuel supply hose on the drivers side head. it was sucking the hose flat when getting on it. replaced the hose and cured the problem.
This guy has the right idea. Another option is run the engine out of a bucket of fuel. Disconnect supply line at back of driver side head and plug in a hose and run it straight into a bucket. The quick connect fitting can be had at any parts store, then just slide it into 3/8 hose if I remember correctly, clamp it and good to go. If it runs good you know you have a fuel supply issue. If it doesn't run good you know you have bigger problems. Hope that helps.
Ok fellas. So tried unplugging the FPR again tonight and it did what it was supposed to, hit 27k on the rail. So ruled that out. Now here is a weird one and I understand why Kory is a little baffled by this. So I started the truck and had the laptop hooked up via the autocal and I did some logging. So at an idle my desired was all over the map. It bounced to 36484 psi and would drop back off to "normal and be around 5-6k and then a few seconds later it was commanding 0 psi. The entire time I was idling at 4-5k. But today efilive said I hit 20k on the rail but im still rpm limited no matter what. I am at a loss. Sounds like I have a serious electrical problem. Guess Ill pull all the turbo stuff off this weekend and do some serious digging into the harness, unless you guys have some other ideas.
How am I supposed to check the hose if im driving and the hood is closed? Im seriously getting frustrated with this ****ing thing. I cant afford to throw any money at the truck at this point. I just spent all I had saved up to get the damn ting running. I find it hard to believe that in 4.5 months of sitting all my lines went to shit and my cp3. not gonna lie I have contemplated lots of diesel fuel and a torch...guarantee ill fix the bitch
Just replace the two hoses they are easy to do and cheap. Then you know its not that
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the 2 after the factory filter head? Guess im not sure what hose you guys are talking about. Ive got some really odd readings when I had the laptop hooked up, like not possible kind of readings
You normally get direct replacement or just go buy a length of that size fuel hose?
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I just went to the hose supply store and bought the blue push lock hose, like $2 a foot or something. You only need like 3 feet. I doubt the collapsing hose is your issue tho because you have a lift pump. I would check lift pump fuel pressure first tho before anything else.
A few companies sell an adapter that threads into the bleeder screw port then turns into 1/8th npt. If you have an old boost gauge laying around you could use that as a pressure gauge. Or rig something up to hook into the test port.
Here's my home made boost gauge fuel pressure tester.
Here's a better view with a different gauge on it.
A few companies sell an adapter that threads into the bleeder screw port then turns into 1/8th npt. If you have an old boost gauge laying around you could use that as a pressure gauge. Or rig something up to hook into the test port.
Here's my home made boost gauge fuel pressure tester.
Here's a better view with a different gauge on it.
I do. I known I have pressure from the pump. It shot fuel past the front of the truck last night when I primed after a filter change. I unplugged the for and got 27k. But I got weird shit happening when I'm driving and idling.
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Kory is telling me to make sure fuel temp, iat, and all other sensors are where they need to be and within check as well. ? No ****in clue what they should be at or around!
Then said if all that checks out (fpr will desire whatever psi is "off" at as well)
I have no clue what this means. I can't get answers so I can look but not a damn clue if I've god good values or not
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Then said if all that checks out (fpr will desire whatever psi is "off" at as well)
I have no clue what this means. I can't get answers so I can look but not a damn clue if I've god good values or not
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:banghead::banghead::banghead:So is it strange that while I was idling and then going though the gears and watching the desired fuel pressure on the laptop it would drop to 0 desired while running and then spike to over 37k psi back to 0. I don't understand that at all. I need some help in a bad way. yes you guys have given me things to look at but I cant look at it and drive the truck or throttle it up at the same time. Id like to drive my truck not stare at it...I just did that for 4.5 months. I need some values to give me a ballpark to be looking for with this logging shit..why in the hell cant I find these values:banghead::banghead::banghead:
did you scan for codes? Not with a handheld but with efllive?
the fuel temp sensor code p0181. its a soft code so you need a good scanner.
See if you can log fuel temp. it should be at or near ambient air temp. in the past when ppl have said the sensor was bad they have gotten crazy readings like 200*
the fuel temp sensor code p0181. its a soft code so you need a good scanner.
See if you can log fuel temp. it should be at or near ambient air temp. in the past when ppl have said the sensor was bad they have gotten crazy readings like 200*
My one log had it range from -40 all the way to 417* same thing happened with the IAT in the bridge
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Come a what? Sorry guys yesterday evening was the first time playing with pids on the computer. Took me 30 min to figure out how to get it to work when I had it doing pass through on the autocal to laptop
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ok we are making progress!
So just to clarify, you scanned fuel temp sensor and IAT, and both of them were reading crazy readings, or just fuel temp?
So just to clarify, you scanned fuel temp sensor and IAT, and both of them were reading crazy readings, or just fuel temp?
Both crazy as hell on one log and totally normal on another. Well it was 55-60 yesterday and they were around 90-95 on the other 2 logs.
I'm so confused gah
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I'm so confused gah
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