free fuel here i come!!!!

[1lowdiesel]

well, i picked up a benz this morning! i've been trying to get a wagon for the past few days but the guy never returned my calls or emails so i decided to move on.

found a 300sd that peaked my interest so i went to check it out. after having my ears chewed off for 2.5hrs about how the government is corrupt and we own nothing i was finally the new owner for a meer $550 bucks!

the car has a 3.3 5cyl diesel in it w/ 226k miles. started up on the 1st crank. it's got a light valve tap but a quick adjustment should fix that. everything works in the car too minus the d/s window, but my buddy has a parts car so that's another easy fix.

my main reason for getting the car is so i can drive it everyday and get great fuel mileage. right now i'm spending about $150 a week in fuel. so, i'm going to convert it to run on vegi here soo too. for now i'll run a heavy mix of diesel and vegi. also i want to take the truck off the road so i can actually finish it the way i want.

enough yapping here are some pics of the peach.

 

[RKTMech]

Sweet.....i can smell the fry's already

 

[Jasondt2001]

From what I've been told the MB Diesels will outlast the car itself!
I can't believe you got it at that price!

 

[lotsofmiles]

great find!

 

[lotsofmiles]

too bad NJ is so far, I've got some WVO you could talk me out of .

 

[KEVINL]

minus the rust that car would probably cost $2000 dolars here. I have always wanted one but $2000-$4000 for a 30year old beater can buy a lot of fuel

 

[Diesel Pilot]

Presidential. I like it.


Makes me think of this guy for some reason.

 

[1lowdiesel]

well that is the only rust spot on the whole car. i can fix it but why bother.

lol diesel pilot. i was just talking about putting little XDP flags on the front fenders :rofl:

 

[jrkrace]

My father had an '82 300 SD and he couldn't kill the damn thing. He sold it to get an '86 420 S because it was gas. My uncle has an '80 240 D that he still tools around in in Florida. 250K and still going strong.

 

[chevy_dmax]

Yeah, those engines will go a looooooong time, from what I've read about it and they will do it burning anything you stick in the tank. Good luck with conversion, should be easy. NJ gets cold, your definatly going to have to heat veggy in winter if you plan to drive it then....

Keep us posted on progress...
Bill.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

:bananallama: Sweet, we both have 300SD's now! Yours has some decent trim bits mine needs:angel: These are the W126 chassis and equipped with the OM617 3.0L turbodiesel, and yes! Last forever and run on anything! I burn a mix of used motor/tranny oil in mine:rofl: Im convinced that they'ed run on salad dressing if it was oily enough:rofl: I see the boost solinod is still hooked up, likly no ones ever screwed with it! Few tips if ya like: Number one thing that makes these slugs off the line is the boostline on the back of the intake, has a long banjo bolt holding it on, it plugs full of soot and oil, clean it and the line out and more power will be had if plugged! I would immideatly delete the EGR on these suckers. Valve adjustments will revive a tad bit of power, i do it every 15K miles. Make your own valve lash wrenches too, I can help ya with that if needed, mine are copyied from factory $300 Hazet wrenches an work better, IMO. Only real major issue that can hurt a OM617 diesel is a timing chain break, I need to replace mine myself. They do strech, and timing goes off, lost power. Shaky engines are usually bad motor mounts or worn inj pump rack damper bolt. The Monark inj nozzles are the best and best for WVO burning in these babys, but to install them right, inj need to be re-shimmed/pop tested, im going to make a pop tester and have shims avalible to rebuld these, which are hard to get or expensive. Clean any leaves and crap out of the firewall cubby, the fan resistor is in there and are notorious for starting fires, which is the downfall of a number of M-B's. Can bypass that solinoid on the firewall, (have boost/EGT gauges though) and it will fuel harder in boost. The pod/aneroid deal on the top plate of the pump is the ALDA valve, responsible for boost to fuel managment. You can pry the cap off and loosen the 10mm and back the screw out till it stops, but once it stops turning thats it. alot of guys bust the head off cause they keep cranking on it. It will fuel more on the bottom end (will coal if you floor it) and you can keep smoke away by gradually steping on the gas. Point is it will accererate lil better. If it has decent blow-by, id vent the crankcase to atmoshere and or make an oil vapor trap too. Oil fouls up the turbo and intake tract and if bad enough could cause an engine runaway! I can help you with that too, make one that works ecellently! If any of this is helpful Kyle or you know or have any issues or Q's, lemme know, ill do my best to help, since we have the same car, i might have run into the issue? BTW, is yours the AiReaserch T3 or K26 KKK turbocharger out of curiosity:hug:Boost from the T3 is maxed effeciancy at 11-12lb boost and 9-10 on the K26 iirc The wastegate springs like to relax and boost drops over time, I can help with that too if you wish!

 

[mmangels22]

Great deal on that ride. Those diesels will live forever. Its just the rest of it thats hit or miss.

 

[1lowdiesel]

damn chris that's a chit ton of excellent info. thanks

i'm not sure on the turbo actually. i'm picking it up tonight so i'll check it out. wonder if i can run an HX35?

it did run a lil rought but i think that was b/c it had almost no fuel in it and it's old fuel.

my buddy said he's gonna show me how to do the valves. i'm sure they've never been done before. this is a 1 owner car!!!

let me know what trim pieces you need we have another parts car.

i'll have to look into those nozzles. i have a nice connect in a fuel shop and can have em done super cheap.

over the past 2 days, from 2 places, i've picked up about 60gal of oil!!

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Sweet! Lemme Know, ive got a small Benz library in my head and peachparts.com is a forum you should join! Im there!And HX35 is too much alone, maybe a great turbo compound with a KKK K26, somthin ive thought about, least these are T3 flangedOnly sucky part is the Bosch MW pump on these is hard to get power from, maybe 35-40 extra HP worth of fuel is all its really got. I completly removed my ALDA for more fuel down low, im gonna remove the fuel rack damper to max it out that way too, but the pump elements are only 5mm iirc and dosnt give much room to play. I did make my own cut delivery valves and runs like a bat outta hell! Rolls a land-cloud! but idles like crap, dunno if its a pressue wave thing or what, just dont have time to tune it to them as of now. Someday. The way to get some real power is bigger pump elements but its gonna be a tough cookie to get them. supposedlly theres a source in china. The known good option is to send the pump to Myna Diesel in Finland, bout $3000 and the M-pump from an older N/A 300D is the best to do it to. The Finns know MB diesels like nobodys business! Check diesel MB's on youtube! Most from finland! I would like to see if Columbus Diesel in Ohio could do one here, havent checked, but since they do a whole custom billet Sigma pump, id guess they could tweak the MW pump for us!Personally, id like to somhow adapt a P7100 to mine and just pull out one element and put a blank plug in the hole, stock P pump could fuel one of these to like 600hp+

 

[1lowdiesel]

got the thing home last night. WTF stupid euro batteries w/ the studs on the wrong side! had it running for a while, no blowby!! blower motor has a mind of it's own. all the signals work, but i'll have to put a new window switch in b/c the DS doesn't go down.

hmmm a twin set up huh:cool2:

our old parent company is a fuel shop. i can bring them whatever and they could tweak it. i've seen them tweak Yanmar 3cyl inline pumps.

i looked at those nozzles too, $106!! that's awesome. my buddy and i will be ordering some up in the next feew weeks.

hey, you know where to get the shift cams that are on top of the valve cover? mine are worn to hell.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Well, sweet, if they can crank a Bosch MW pump, let me know!

Ya, nozzles arnt to bad at all! Make sure you replace the injector heat shields anytime you even loosen an injector (from the head), there a 1 time use thing but there pretty cheap! There are also slightly differant nozzles for spicific engines, cant remember which one but one number is best for these VS the 4cyl ones, etc.

The shift valves in the box on the valve cover actually have nothing to do with shifting. Even though they are called shift valves they control the EGR activation so it dosnt choke the engine out on gear changes. Dont need em, just remove the vac lines and and plug them off where the start. Just make sure there is one line the goes to the tranny modulator, it may originally go to the valve box up there, if so re hook it to the vaccum source by the oil filter/inj pump area. See all those little vaccum 3-star splitter deals, some of the lines have a small plastic orifice restrictors. Make sure the stay with the coresponding lines, there differant. But i removed the shift valve crap and was able to simplify into 1 vaccum tee thing. You hafta leave the mechanical cable part of the box there for the shiftdown cable though but the vaccum lines and garbage you dont need and the valves are wasted money , into the trash with it

If ya need, i can see about getting the Monark inj # for ya, lemme know~!

 

[1lowdiesel]

sweet check this find out

https://mercedessource.com/node/4771

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Pretty good deal on them! Mercedessource.com is a pretty good parts place! I saw in the link page there was a link to the heat shields too Those Monarks are the best from everyone ive heard, what ill buy myself. They run the best with WVO too. True Bosch tips are made in Brazil now days an arnt that great, next choice is Bosio's from italy and there pretty good but pricy. Monark is winner hands down! Besides the heat shields for installing them after rebuild, you'll need to replace the inj-to-inj return line, cheap too, but get the good viton/braided stuff, the others suck and leak quickly. I get 1 meter at a time, enough for one car and enough to fix a mistake And the last injector will have a chunk of line and a plug. if yours has the rubber end plug, buy a metal one! As the page also states, will need to lap the new ones and pop test/shim them, within 3bar. If needed, a guy on the benz fourm dose rebuilds very good and cheap if you need.

If i could find some cheap, id like to have some AAZ Volkswagen injectors, there dual stage! but are rare!

 

[1lowdiesel]

yea i found another link that was selling a set with the shields for $106.

https://mercedessource.com/node/4753

i went to the junk yard this weekend to see what goodies i could find. found a mint interior blue and all, but the tops of door panels are beat. there aren't even any cracks in the seats!! he told me $100 bucks for the pair.

BUT nothing good comes w/o something bad. i did manage to loose my key for truck while there though. so i had to wait 3 hrs till my dad could bring me my spare.

i did manage to get a little done on the car though. cleaned the chit outta the interior, fixed some rust in the trunk, put a new radio in, figured that i need a new winder motor, blocked the egr and some vaccum lines and cleaned out that banjo bolt. i think i'm gonna do the valves this week too.

 

[merlin5577]

Looks great for its age. Nice find, good luck with it.