Hes asking if toe will change if you switch from one setting to another
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For your consideration. New SD "TT" Center link
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Hes asking if toe will change if you switch from one setting to another
Yes. All OEM replacement tie rods that will fit the stock CL will fit. Here's a few off my head which include Moog, Fabtech, Rare Parts, Kryptonite OEM rep. Cognito OEM rep.
Duh. Back to earth. Yes, it will need to be adjusted. It's a simple as measuring across the front tire tread (across the front of the tires), then measuring across the back of the front tires tread as close to 180* on the other side as possible, then adjusting the tie rods. This is the way I have done it for years. It will be a minimum amount.
Many worried about loosing there turning radius with the straight CL. You don't loose much at all because the spindle housing stops are still in the same place. However the outside tire gets to this point and the inside tire needs to turn in a tighter circle (smaller radius than the out side tire). The straight doesn't allow the inside tire to go quite to this tighter turning circle because of the geometry change in relocating the tie rods further forward and thus the inside tire fights against the outside tire in a tight turn since there now turning almost the same dia circle. The location of the tie rod on the stock center link puts them at the ideal location to do this, however this also puts the CL at a disadvantage and allows the CL to rotate up and back on the off set that they sit at on the stock CL (not in line with the ball joints and able to rotate on them back and forth as well as clockwise and c'clockwise the way the steering moves the tires). This new CL allows you to change from perfect turning geometry to the direct and powerful setting of having the tie rods straight across from the ball joints so NO up and down articulation can occur in the CL to effect the steering toe in and out. Just the precise side to side movement when turning the steering wheel. The middle is a compromise between the two. It has the minimal up and down movement associated with being off set and still provides reasonable steering from side to side (not perfect, but close). This position can be controlled much better with a CL rotation stabilizer like the Cognitos and such.
The bad part is this. If you compete with the stock CL and it has the chance to rotate during a launch or pull, it can put you into a bad situation quickly. I've seen many trucks B-line for a wall when launching like this (it's dangerous). It can be fine if you leave the "T" bars down and the tie rods flat, but if the front lifts any, it's all over. I've left 2 black tire strips down the entire 1/4 mile once in 03 combating this problem (I was using a dually so it was the front tires towing in that left the marks and I could hear them squealing the whole way). I first built some braces that look like Cognitos back then (made from 1/4" steel though) and ended up with the SD center link many use today. I've just added some versatility to it at the request of many that had to deal with the tire scrub problem while in a tight turn and when not competing. Some were changing out the straight CL for the stocker in the off season and it was a pain in the buckets. Now there is no more need. One CL does it all. See there, clear as mud.
These work on any truck that uses the stock CL and tie rods (stock and lifted).
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Michael, is there enough room to "step" the added two threaded points in toward the center of the CL? That way, adjusting toe would never have to happen once you got it set right the first time? you would have to figure out much each section would have to step back but i wouldnt think it would be more than a 1/4 or so. this is of course if there still enough room that the shoulder you create wont interfere with the tie rods. that would be an awesome setup then as you could jsut pull up to the track, swap threaded ports, lower the t-bars and be on your way. hell you could drive home on it without worry of killin your tires. you wouldnt have to be nearly as concernd with toe change then and would be just that much more versitile :hug: just thinkin out loud
Don't have a clue if that woule work but sounds like a great idea! I would buy one in a heartbeat if it worked.
I tried this at first. However, the straight CL hole location would be out the furthest and would render the use of the second holes useless. I could do it if only using the forward most (straight CL) and the rear most (stock CL location) only.
got ya, so the holes are too close to eachother for it to work. Now, if there were only the two options and you got rid of that third hole while making the "step", could the hole that will be stepped in be moved any closer to the CL than say the third hole you currently have now is? hope that makes sense
. That way, the leverage induced is still reduced from factory and will give damn near un-noticable turning loss or tire scrub. Depending on how your braces work out, your damn near tempting me to buy one of these kits if the stepped part would work.
Excuse my ignorance on the subject, but what is the major advantage to the middle setting?
If stock is the furthest forward, and straight is the back setting, I don't really see a need for a middle setting.
If stock is the furthest forward, and straight is the back setting, I don't really see a need for a middle setting.
if you run the middle setting its like a street/strip setting, specially withand braces. its cuts the leverage on the idler/pitman arm in half of factory and reduces the wear imposed onto the idler/pitman arm. it will hold up to track abuse or playing on the street much better than the factory setting but keeps tire scrub to a minimum when turning. its not the best setup for drag racing but it takes the good points of both sides and combinds them for the best ALL AROUND setup.
Thanks for the clarification James!
I understand that design if that's all you have. With Michael's new product you could have "the best of both worlds" with a turn of a wrench. In theory I like the two-setting stepped idea myself.
Thanks for explaining that James. Was out at a Rockies baseball game with the wife.
The problem with the step is this. You can get a wrench on the inner tie rod to take it loose on the setting that is sticking out. But you cant turn the wrench on the tie rod end if it's on the recessed step. The metal is in the way of the wrench rotating to unscrew the tie rod. Wanted to do it but that stopped me. The thing about it is you have to lift the front of the truck up to loosen and remove the tie rod end in the first place (wheel needs to be able to move in and out). What you do is, do the tape measure thing, and record how many turns you need on each setting to get it back straight with each placement. You just need to do it once they simply verify (which should be done any way) each time it's moved. Believe it or not, this is about generic as it gets.
The problem with the step is this. You can get a wrench on the inner tie rod to take it loose on the setting that is sticking out. But you cant turn the wrench on the tie rod end if it's on the recessed step. The metal is in the way of the wrench rotating to unscrew the tie rod. Wanted to do it but that stopped me. The thing about it is you have to lift the front of the truck up to loosen and remove the tie rod end in the first place (wheel needs to be able to move in and out). What you do is, do the tape measure thing, and record how many turns you need on each setting to get it back straight with each placement. You just need to do it once they simply verify (which should be done any way) each time it's moved. Believe it or not, this is about generic as it gets.
I also have another one available called the "BBW" (best of both worlds :thumb. I will put up pics soon. It has only the factory CL hole location and the straight CL location. It will come with the same accessories as well. The supports are still in process. I'm revamping the pitman arm support because currently it is to time consuming for the machining process. Need to cut some fat and stream line a little. Idler support is ready for production. There tough. They will be for the stock CL and for the new CLs I'm making.
. I will put up pics soon. It has only the factory CL hole location and the straight CL location. It will come with the same accessories as well. The supports are still in process. I'm revamping the pitman arm support because currently it is to time consuming for the machining process. Need to cut some fat and stream line a little. Idler support is ready for production. There tough. They will be for the stock CL and for the new CLs I'm making.
I also have another one available called the "BBW" (best of both worlds :thumb
:thumb: no doubt about them being bulletproof Mike
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