Fleece 63mm/68mm or DT 64mm?

[aashton1206]

Heat my grind is what kills them


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[Chevy1925]

Heat my grind is what kills them


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

Uh no but in some instances, it can be an added compounded issue

 

[aashton1206]

If he compound the situation with a bigger turbo it and doesn’t stud it, it will soak the heads.


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[aashton1206]

But I am with every one else, 5 grand for a trans will do a lot for ya


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[aashton1206]

Are you still running the stock mouthpiece


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[WVRigrat05]

I'd swap the studs one at a time, slap a 475 on it, 3300 us tune, and build the trans in my shitter when it dies.

 

[Hambone]

I'd swap the studs one at a time, slap a 475 on it, 3300 us tune, and build the trans in my shitter when it dies.

Lol what about the motor... Kitchen perhaps?
Could heat treat all your bolts in the oven! :roflmao:

 

[TheBac]

Aw hell, all that's going to happen is the trans will take a shit or the headgaskets will fail. I say, "Go for it and worry about that when it happens." Its not our money, and if he wants to take the risk, so be it. Support him as best we can.

About time the membership on this forum got back to the "trying something new" mentality instead of playing it safe.

 

[Chevy1925]

If he compound the situation with a bigger turbo it and doesn’t stud it, it will soak the heads.


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

Adding a bigger turbo does not heat soak the heads. That is by no means the cause.

 

[TheDirty06]

Ahh hell again! Didn't we deal with a guy a couplle weeks ago who actually attempted to build his own tranny and dicked it all up?

 

[TheDirty06]

Adding a bigger turbo does not heat soak the heads. That is by no means the cause.

He's Right! But you can stretch the factory bolts about a 1/16th of an inch and cause a nice leak.

 

[Chevy1925]

He's Right! But you can stretch the factory bolts about a 1/16th of an inch and cause a nice leak.

You guys are failing to give the right reason why the bolts stretch and hg blow when you start upping power and boost.... the answer is on this site.

 

[aashton1206]

You know what your totally right. Go bigger on the turbo with the stock mouthpiece/stock headbolts and don’t worry about anything. 1925 is the boss and he knows everything. Good luck


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[zakkb787]

Oh my god can we just go one thread without a pointless pissing match. Ashton no one is saying he will be perfectly fine with stock bolts and mouthpiece. Just that maybe the reason for lifting a head and stretching a bolt may be a bit different from what you think. And I'm sure James is sick of always repeating himself when searching isn't that hard. Hell I don't even know the science behind it. I need to look it up too.

To the OP. you're going to be just a few steps away from doing a head gasket job. Why not do it right the first time. You're in that far. Because what happens when you slap that much more boost on a head, studs or not, with an old gasket and a head that may be slightly uneven to begin with. Boom. Back apart. And as far as your trans, you do you but no way in hell I would spend that much money and not know for a fact whether or not it will hold whatvits supposed to. I had my trans done at a local shop because I didn't listen and I honestly don't know if it's gonna hold or not so there's a few grand possibly wasted. These trucks aren't your average 4l60. These Alison's need precision and perfection. One little thing off and you can go from a built trans that holds 800hp to one that holds 450hp.

 

[PureHybrid]

You know what your totally right. Go bigger on the turbo with the stock mouthpiece/stock headbolts and don’t worry about anything. 1925 is the boss and he knows everything. Good luck

You aren't going to stretch stock head bolts with 45-50psi, this isn't a 6.0 Ford.

And yes, James IS the baaws

 

[monster50iii]

Cyl. pressure can blow hg's with stock levels of boost of the tuning is that far North with timing etc. It isnt always boost, but it certainly doesnt help. Plus, too many times, I believe guys are running wayy more boost than they need for X amount of fuel.

 

[Chevy1925]

You know what your totally right. Go bigger on the turbo with the stock mouthpiece/stock headbolts and don’t worry about anything. 1925 is the boss and he knows everything. Good luck


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

No need to get upset over there just cause I won’t flat out tell you why.

Read up on drive pressure and you will see why twins are better at keeping hg in place over stock single, slightly larger than stock turbo or driving the shit out of your truck with fuel.

Monster is right but that added cylinder pressure has to come from somewhere and unless you are throwing 80+ lbs of boost, boost is not causing it nor is it heat unless compounded as I stated before.

 

[jmdorris]

Guys, yes I’m new to posting on here but not new to hot rodding, fabricating, materials science, or forums.

Now, to clarify: 1. All the big LLY Achilles heels have been fixed. No EGR, S&B elbow, intake, Rob’s trans safe tunes, coolant flush, thermostat swap to lower ones, Mike’s trans cooler, PCV delete, and so on.

2. Yes, I can build the trans. Yes, I understand at the scientific level why head gaskets warp/sheer or why studs perform better than bolts mechanically. Just because I haven’t done an Allison before doesn’t mean jack. I’ve done my research, I’ve talked at length with Mike, I have professional certified Allison techs from the Army that will help for beer, and a good friend with a bachelors in automotive technology.

However, we have strayed from the path. The original question was, Fleece 63, DT 64, or another good, mild turbo that’s gonna give me a solid edge over the stocker to better handle some hot tunes once the trans is built. I am not aiming for twins, at least not for 5-10 years when I do a whole engine with all the goodies. If the engine dies before then, I’m just patching until I get my SoCal stage 2-spec engine and then twins. Or triples. Or quadruples if that’s a thing then. Just like a Bugatti.


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[jmdorris]

This is my daily driver to teach high school physics, then turn around to do farm and construction work. Or just scare Camaros and Mustangs.

I see hot rodding as a lifelong learning process. You won’t convince me to buy a built trans, I enjoy the rush of the build too much. If it blows, it blows, and hopefully in a glorious blaze of glory and not idling at a light. All of this is to learn for me. I have 2 backup gassers if I goof really bad.


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[jmdorris]

Hell, if I had the tooling, I’d mod my own turbo housing for fun. I’m crazy like that. It’s all in good fun. But a cocaine addiction would be cheaper.


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