Fixing my LBZ/ truck build
- Thread starter Dozerboy
- Start date
Yeah, you're making me wish I had taken a little more time and painted some stuff when I did my injectors.
Oh well, there's always when I tear into it for a rebuild
I'm curious why you didn't pull the motor instead of doing the work inside the truck?
Lol I sometimes wish I would quit screwing around and just finish the truck. With my OCD everything takes longer then it should. Like the fact if a bolt doesn’t take lock tight it’s getting anti-seize and torque to spec -20%. That’s just the kind of stupid crap I do when I do something.
My wife will kill me when the motor gets built. That will probably turn into a frame off restoration.
Plenty of people do them in the truck, so I didn’t figure it would be to bad. I’m pretty lean at 140lbs so working in the engine compartment ain’t a huge pain for me. Really I didn’t want to hassle with an engine stand, hoist, and fight getting the engine in and out by myself.
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Id be willing to bet your wife will surprise you and say, "Do what you have to do" when the time comes....just like mine did. Women are strange creatures.....
Your probably right Tom assuming it's at least a few years from now.
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I was getting the manifolds ready to go on when I noticed some of the mating surface flaking off on the passenger side. I’m worried it might not seal. Could this damage the head if it doesn’t seal fully? All 4 of the port are like this.
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Anything to backup that -20% on torque for anti-siezed stuff, or is that just what you feel is comfortable?
Thanks
Google dry and lubricated torque values and you will have reading for days. Most Lubricant manufactures seem to spec 20-25% reduction. Some caution needs to be taken, because I have seen it thrown out there that the Torque value could need to be reduced as much as 40% at times.
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And if you do decide to have them surfaced by machine shop I’d port match them and smooth up what you can inside. Not much material to take off to port match. I thought I read yellowchevy say he saw 50-100 degree drop in egt’s while driving with ones he did. I never had an egt sensor on mine prior to port matching so I can’t honestly back up what Russ said. But I don’t doubt him either.
I thought about it, but there where test done on an engine dyno that showed no gains in manifolds until you did up pipes.
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Nice! I really like the way the valve colors look. I'm going to either do the same or glass bead - clear coat. Got a ways to go yet on mine though
that's funny Tom...
mine was the same way with the engine in the lmm. now my lml was a different story..lol wish I would've kept that truck...
OCD isnt a bad thing sometimes. the effort your putting in to that is amazing. It looks great.
I thought mine looked really good nut I didnt get near as detailed as you. makes me wish I had time to do it before it goes into my reg cab.
No so sexy part of my OCD replacing the split loom that was starting to fall apart.
Getting there.
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Looks awesome man i really like the color scheme. Put some tape over your oil fill would hate for you to drop something in there. New wire room looks great too man
Thanks guys
Ya I normally have a rag in there.
When I was putting my valve covers on I dropped a dowel, but luckily it didn’t go down one of the oil passages. I was sick there for a split second.
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Looks awesome man i really like the color scheme. Put some tape over your oil fill would hate for you to drop something in there. New wire room looks great too man
Ya I normally have a rag in there.
When I was putting my valve covers on I dropped a dowel, but luckily it didn’t go down one of the oil passages. I was sick there for a split second.
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