Engine

[JOHNBOY]

Change the valve train bolts (5 on each side) as well with at least some grade 8 bolts too when going to the better valve springs. I believe the full open pressure is almost twices the stocker pressure.

Good Call!

This is interesting. Here is what I - a person just looking in from the outside and not actually building anything - see going on here. There is very little difference in what a person does to their engine whether they are going for mild or wild. Either way you seem to do rods (same rods either way so no cost difference), pistons (kinda limited on choices so what you do for one, you likely do for the other type of build and thereagain, no difference in price), heavy duty valvetrain (springs, pushrods, etc.), cam and crank keyed. Only way to "skimp" for a lesser build is the cam and heads for which you would run stockers versus modified units. I suppose if you ran a big lift cam, you may have to do a little more to your pistons for valve clearance otherwise, all else the same? Am I seeing it right? Cam and heads are the only real difference between mild and wild engine builds? Then of course what size charger(s) you strap on the thing (not really a whole lot of cost difference in the overall scheme of things whether you run a 2.5, 2.8 or twins) and how much fuel you want to push at it (single or dual CP3).


C-ya

I agree with that. Basicly it comes down to the engine was well designed. What ever spec they shot for as a output vs. fatuige they did a great job. The limits of the OEM components are reached at basicly the same power level across the board.

 

[TurboBeagleBuggy]

This is interesting. Here is what I - a person just looking in from the outside and not actually building anything - see going on here. There is very little difference in what a person does to their engine whether they are going for mild or wild. Either way you seem to do rods (same rods either way so no cost difference), pistons (kinda limited on choices so what you do for one, you likely do for the other type of build and thereagain, no difference in price), heavy duty valvetrain (springs, pushrods, etc.), cam and crank keyed. Only way to "skimp" for a lesser build is the cam and heads for which you would run stockers versus modified units. I suppose if you ran a big lift cam, you may have to do a little more to your pistons for valve clearance otherwise, all else the same? Am I seeing it right? Cam and heads are the only real difference between mild and wild engine builds? Then of course what size charger(s) you strap on the thing (not really a whole lot of cost difference in the overall scheme of things whether you run a 2.5, 2.8 or twins) and how much fuel you want to push at it (single or dual CP3).


C-ya

That pretty much sums it up, I hope I don't get throwed out of the house I'm not looking forward to the cost of an engine project.

 

[WolfLMM]

If I wanted to stick with I-beams, are the R&R's the best choice? I cant see spending the extra $$ for the H beam carillo's when theres not much to prove they are better...

My heads are going to stay stock. No money to do anything performance oriented with them. But if I were to do ONE SINGLE thing to the heads, it should be Trippin's valve springs?? Key the cam, maybe talk to guy about how much a mild cam would cost. Pistons...maybe just shave the lip off some LB7's...I dont need anything lower than 16:1....Ill be sticking with the HTT. Maybe main studs if I have $ left over, but IMO I havent heard of enough failures to warrant them. Pat did 750rwhp with the HTT and all stock engine...I would like to have that and run fast in the 1/4 mile but WITH reliability. Mind you 95% of my daily driving and towing would be with a small tune. I just want to be able to run 700rwhp whenever I want to without worrying...

What im thinking of.

rods
head studs
key the cam and crank
valve springs
cut stock pistons
stock everything else

Thats going to be what Im basing my build around. If I have any money left over after thats done, maybe Ill look into a cam, probably not tho.

Ben, Your paying the extra money cause they are forged. Forged rods are stronger because of the grain structure.

 

[chevmike]

i know this is a real vague question with hundreds of variables, but just out of curiosity, what is a price range for a built engine. Its something i will likely look at doing in the future...long way to go before that.

 

[dieselson]

Man, those pistons, that is really starting to be the big question, I know we will have to do a build eventually. The price though, is something that is enough to actually make me want to return the truck to stock though.

 

[super diesel]

i know this is a real vague question with hundreds of variables, but just out of curiosity, what is a price range for a built engine. Its something i will likely look at doing in the future...long way to go before that.

Your probably looking in the 10K to 25K range for a good build (depends on who does it and how far). Many variables to this. Like hows the fuel system? What kind of shape is the other internals in? Any custom parts going in? New air system going on? More fuel going in?

 

[McRat]

I would not worry about pistons if you have your EGT's under control. I have no doubt EGT's are the killer. Wish I would have learned earlier.

As far as price to build an engine, it's the little things that kill you.

The bare minimum would be:

Head gaskets
Bearings
Studs
Key the Crank and Cam
Crower Rods
(reuse rings and pistons, KEEP IN ORDER@!)

This is assuming your engine is still running fine when you tear down.

Maybe $4500+ labor.

 

[ripmf666]

Hey Pat i'm looking into building soon, what did you find and what would you have changed, IS it ok to use the LBZ pistons or no.

Thank You
Henry

 

[JOHNBOY]

Here is what I have.

Rods 2700
Main and Head Studs 925
Bearings and Rings 600
Head gaskets and seals 400
Valve springs, seats, retainers 856
Balancing and line hone 430
GT42 1100
PPE mount kit 1600
CP3 X 2 2000
injectors 1400

That = 12011

That does not include the engine, all the machine work I did, all parts I made, or any of the labor.

 

[dieselson]

1100 for a GT42? This is what I came up with

Core Motor- $1000
Piston Modifications- $800 maybe?
Carrillo Rods- $3000
Pushrods- $300
Heads- $2000
Cam+Drive key Option-$1050
Main Studs- $400
Machining and labor- $3000
----------------------------
$11150 that isn't too bad, if we can tear our own engine down, we can save on labor. Those things are not the bare minimum, but it would make a pretty awesome high performance engine. Maybe 750 RWHP with the same turbo and same bigger injectors.

 

[JOHNBOY]

1100 for a GT42? This is what I came up with The GT42 I have is a jorunal bearing not ball bearing much keeper. The plain bearing charger is actually a spec charger in a local tractor pulling class. So my local injection shop stocks them.

Core Motor- $1000 Good luck cores are more like 4000
Piston Modifications- $800 maybe?
Carrillo Rods- $3000
Pushrods- $300
Heads- $2000
Cam+Drive key Option-$1050
Main Studs- $400
Machining and labor- $3000
----------------------------
$11150 that isn't too bad, if we can tear our own engine down, we can save on labor. Those things are not the bare minimum, but it would make a pretty awesome high performance engine. Maybe 750 RWHP with the same turbo and same bigger injectors.

 

[dieselson]

Thanks I've seen core motors on Ebay, where something simple is broken, and they go for about 1k.

 

[JOHNBOY]

Prices have gone up a good bit lately. The only engines I found under 2000 where on Car-part.com and they where engine fires. FWIW I bought my spare of a yard that listed on car-part.com and was very pleased.

 

[02freighttrain]

I've been trying to forget the bottomline number, but it's like Pat said the little stuff in a build can add significantly to the build cost. All said and done I have way over 20k in my motor with the cost of the turbo and twin pump.
Push Rods, Injector seals, Returnline seals, Misc gaskets, clamps, rocker arm bolts, shiney things for the wife, and a zillion other things can drain your wallet pretty fast.

Is it worth the sacrifice(s)? hell yeh.........

Fingers are crossed at all times on the piston issue.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Here is what I have.

Rods 2700
Main and Head Studs 925
Bearings and Rings 600
Head gaskets and seals 400
Valve springs, seats, retainers 856
Balancing and line hone 430
GT42 1100
PPE mount kit 1600
CP3 X 2 2000
injectors 1400

That = 12011

US Dollars just be glad you dont have to convert
atleast i got some of that stuff already
BUT like freigt said, shiney things for the wife just increased the cost

 

[ripmf666]

sucks having to pay off the wifes lol

 

[Kat]

sucks having to pay off the wifes lol

:nunck:rotest::box:

 

[ripmf666]

:nunck:rotest::box:

LOL She's got the little one coming in November, Then I will have to pay her off when I start building a motor for the 01 hehe the trade the 06 in on her a new tahoe

 

[MaxFarmer]

You guys arent kidding about the little stuff!! I got my bill from the stealership yesterday for just the rebuild (I had the machine work done elsewhere and paid for all the extra parts--head work, cam, turbo, etc... myself) and it was still almost $12,000! $7500 in labor alone and at least $4000 in gaskets and seals, also included new piston rings and all new bearings. I'm gettin close to $30K and I still only have 1 CP3!

 

[codyn]

im doing rods cam had to machine the block forged pistions and i'm not even close to $10000 who i have putting the motor together are only billing me 700 for tear down and assemble it. so i guess i will see how it runs when we put it back together