The days of being able to put slicks on it are done. Not sure it will make any 1/4 miles passes. I'll get Someone to take a few clips one of these days. I can say the setup is quiet you can't hear the turbos 
Engine build
- Thread starter moparkxracer
- Start date
He was very patient with me on it. We'd be admitted into a ward for the conversations we had of they got out in the public.
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I feel you there. I run a 13.08@104 at full weight (8,260 lbs). For fun, I stripped out my toolbox, aux fuel tank, etc, and ran 1500 lbs lighter. 12.96 @ 110 :baby: ice skated down the whole dang track in 4HI :spit:
Now I don't run slicks because I am afraid my front end will exit stage left. Is that your concern, or is there a fitment or weight rating issue?
Awesome truck by the way, I can certainly appreciate a monster street truck!
I imagine it's because he can't fit a wheel smaller than 20 on it. That coupled with how low it is. Low profile slicks are pretty much useless.
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Right, upgraded brakes. Yeah, that would about do it.
I still say you should give it a run, and just launch really soft, and/or pedal your way down the track. That's what I did
Just try not to put it in the wall, OK?
Right, upgraded brakes. Yeah, that would about do it.
I still say you should give it a run, and just launch really soft, and/or pedal your way down the track. That's what I did
But first hook it to another truck and melt all 4 off to get them all hot and sticky
I'm running 305/50 20's, so I have room for them.. With the brakes I have I have to run a 20 inch wheel. I feel the braking capability for the street is a better choice for me rather than being able to run slicks on it. My front end is more then capable to hold the power and go straight. Below is what has been done for those that haven't seen: OVRDOSE
Engine: 6.6 duramax 1/2 filled block, LLY keyed crank, .20 over fingers coated oval bowel pistons 15.5:1 compression, Carrillo rods, alt firing order cam, billet rocker bridges, Billet girdle, Ati damper, billet flywheel, billet main caps, ported heads, Hamilton valve springs, rocker studs, ARP 625 head studs, main studs, billet injector hold down with stud kit, banana oil pan (not yellow), Jones racing vacuum pump, Wagler street intake.
Cooling: Mishimoto radiator and thermostats, drilled and pined water pump.
Turbos: billet S475 TCT 87 / 2 billet S472 TCT 87 stainless V band housings, turbo smart 60mm waste gate, turbo smart blow off valve. Turbos where spec out by Shane and Landon and I built the kit.
Fuel: dual air dog 200 lift pumps, exergy 200% over LBZ injectors, PPE duel fuel kit, dual Exergy 10mm CP3's, LLY ported fuel rails.
Electronics: EFI live tuning by Mark at Danville performance, lockup box, DC power 270 amp alternator
Gauges: AutoMeter, oil pressure, oil temp, dual water temp one on each side of engine, EGT, drive pressure, low boost pressure, high boost pressure, lift pump pressure, rail pressure and vacuum gauge.
Intake/exhaust: BD inner cooler, PPE (compound turbo) manifolds and up pipes, 5 inch exhaust.
Transmission: Allison 1000, Diesel Addiction full billet custom build.
Suspension, steering and rearend: Diesel Addiction custom lowering kit, cognito upper control arms, DJM lower control arms, traction bars, transfer case brace, heavy duty front cross member, DJM low profile transmission crossmember, DHD center link support brace with roller bearing, kripinite idler brace, SS center link and tie rod kit, speed steer idler pivot, ultimate idler arm, rare parts pitman arm, AGR gear box, Jones racing power steering pump, QA1 coil over on front and dual adj on rear, helwig front and rear sway bars, grizzly rear locker, RCV cv's.
Body: Spyder headlights with HID upgrade and tail lights. Morimoto LED fog lights
Tires: Nitto 420s 305/50r20.
Wheels: BMF novakanes 20x9.
Willwood brake kit, stainless lines.
Engine: 6.6 duramax 1/2 filled block, LLY keyed crank, .20 over fingers coated oval bowel pistons 15.5:1 compression, Carrillo rods, alt firing order cam, billet rocker bridges, Billet girdle, Ati damper, billet flywheel, billet main caps, ported heads, Hamilton valve springs, rocker studs, ARP 625 head studs, main studs, billet injector hold down with stud kit, banana oil pan (not yellow), Jones racing vacuum pump, Wagler street intake.
Cooling: Mishimoto radiator and thermostats, drilled and pined water pump.
Turbos: billet S475 TCT 87 / 2 billet S472 TCT 87 stainless V band housings, turbo smart 60mm waste gate, turbo smart blow off valve. Turbos where spec out by Shane and Landon and I built the kit.
Fuel: dual air dog 200 lift pumps, exergy 200% over LBZ injectors, PPE duel fuel kit, dual Exergy 10mm CP3's, LLY ported fuel rails.
Electronics: EFI live tuning by Mark at Danville performance, lockup box, DC power 270 amp alternator
Gauges: AutoMeter, oil pressure, oil temp, dual water temp one on each side of engine, EGT, drive pressure, low boost pressure, high boost pressure, lift pump pressure, rail pressure and vacuum gauge.
Intake/exhaust: BD inner cooler, PPE (compound turbo) manifolds and up pipes, 5 inch exhaust.
Transmission: Allison 1000, Diesel Addiction full billet custom build.
Suspension, steering and rearend: Diesel Addiction custom lowering kit, cognito upper control arms, DJM lower control arms, traction bars, transfer case brace, heavy duty front cross member, DJM low profile transmission crossmember, DHD center link support brace with roller bearing, kripinite idler brace, SS center link and tie rod kit, speed steer idler pivot, ultimate idler arm, rare parts pitman arm, AGR gear box, Jones racing power steering pump, QA1 coil over on front and dual adj on rear, helwig front and rear sway bars, grizzly rear locker, RCV cv's.
Body: Spyder headlights with HID upgrade and tail lights. Morimoto LED fog lights
Tires: Nitto 420s 305/50r20.
Wheels: BMF novakanes 20x9.
Willwood brake kit, stainless lines.
Tired of the controllers bouncing around in the center council area. Need to make small plates to mount them to. Should look pretty good and be out of the way.
That is the blow off valve controller, it works amazing. You don't have to adjust it on the fly.. You can set it to open at any pressure release of the throttle and how long it stays open for. I have ZERO turbo bark. The price of people's face when it opens is priceless.
