no you cant just refill the ac system with stuff from autozone. afte its been opened up like you want to do.
Engine build
- Thread starter x MadMAX DIESEL
- Start date
Are you serious
With all the pulled motors I have seen on this site, in peoples garages! All had the condenser removed. Surely not everyone is an HVAC guy that has the "proper tools"
Are you serious
I do
harbor frieght vacuum pump and a set of gauges from napa. Ecc is right, if you want to do it right you need to replace those once opened up. While you can plug the ports on the receiver dryer to save it, you need to make damn sure air cant get in it. I would replace the orfice tube though. If you dont wanna go through that mess of sucking it down and putting freon in, take it to a shop. Most mom and pop places charge you .5-1 hour plus freon to recharge. Just adding freon after putting it back together will make for poor cooling.Your lines can be under 150-200 psi of pressure with truck off. The "bad way" is to put a screw driver on the shrader valve under one of those black caps on your ac line. The right way is to have a shop recover the freon first. I wont say what way i did it but i dont have a recovery machine at home and i didnt stop at a shop first
I do
Your lines can be under 150-200 psi of pressure with truck off. The "bad way" is to put a screw driver on the shrader valve under one of those black caps on your ac line. The right way is to have a shop recover the freon first. I wont say what way i did it but i dont have a recovery machine at home and i didnt stop at a shop first
so did you have to replace ac system?
intent to vent is the way James is referring to lol. That is illegel but has been done many times 134a is inviromently friendly so they say. With that said i guess if you took plastic caps and blocked off every line or some sort of steel cap to thread into the lines you take off you wouldn't have to replace the reciever dryer if you didn't want to but at least just replace the orfice tube so you know sheet aint blockin the screen on that lil bugger. . you still need a shop or someone to draw a vaccum on the systm then recharge properly. You can take the engine out without opening up the system thats what i did. Sorry for the misspelling im drunk LOL THe reciever dryer is just a big desicant bag really. it collects all the moister in the ac system. So if you leave it open it just absorbs all the chit in the air and ruins it. The orfice tube really just collects trash in the sytem and is really easy and cheap to replace.
134a is inviromently friendly so they say. With that said i guess if you took plastic caps and blocked off every line or some sort of steel cap to thread into the lines you take off you wouldn't have to replace the reciever dryer if you didn't want to but at least just replace the orfice tube so you know sheet aint blockin the screen on that lil bugger. . you still need a shop or someone to draw a vaccum on the systm then recharge properly. You can take the engine out without opening up the system thats what i did. Sorry for the misspelling im drunk LOL THe reciever dryer is just a big desicant bag really. it collects all the moister in the ac system. So if you leave it open it just absorbs all the chit in the air and ruins it. The orfice tube really just collects trash in the sytem and is really easy and cheap to replace.
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I did head gaskets, studs and set the lash on my truck and I'm only 20 so don't get too scared. On the AC system just put rubber plugs or caps off like gear oil bottles in the open ports. You will want to have a shop draw a vaccum on it for at least 45 minutes before re-charging.
I guess I'll just take my chances if I mess up the system or anything, I think I'll just put a zip lock bag on the ends of the ac lines and rubber band them. If It doesn't blow cold I will know something needs fixin lol, as long as running it won't hurt anything expensive.
Thanks, I'm only 1 year older than you. But I didn't pay much attention in school besides my electives :rofl:
Ive had my motor in and out 3 times and never broke the system i just unbolt it and flip it over upside down next to the passenger side batt on a bid rag or shop towel i make sure not to kink the line or stress the aluminum line or the dryer.
I'm talking about the condenser (radiator thing) not the compressor. That is what I will do with the compressor.
You can flip the condenser over the fender and get it out of the way without disconnecting any lines. I've done it several times. Once I had the hard line that runs from the condenser to the evaporator (the same line the orifice tube is in) crack because it had been almost completely rubbed through by the plastic clip that holds it to the bracket under the air intake. Anyway, you don't have to open up the A/C system.
Just to clarify, you don't actually totally flip it over the fender. You kind of hook the lines over so one is on one side of the fender and the other is on the other side.
Just to clarify, you don't actually totally flip it over the fender. You kind of hook the lines over so one is on one side of the fender and the other is on the other side.
Seen MPL do that exact thing a few times.... Saves the customer money and Ted some time
Honestly i have never had a problem with taking the as system apart. I just plug the holes, and i never even pull a vaccum. Just start putting freon in and blow it off the other end until i get freon. Call me stupid, but its always worked for me. Good luck with the build, i have been there twice. Once on my old 06 and just got done building my 08 LMM work truck crappy chinese junk
Good luck with the build, i have been there twice. Once on my old 06 and just got done building my 08 LMM work truck crappy chinese junk
I'm gonna unhook the ac if I can pull the whole stack at once. It looks like I can take the whole core support with all the radiator type stuff off all together or is that wishful thinking? Probably gonna start on it tomorrow. From what I could gather on a quick glance I just have to unbolt the whole support from the fenders and the 2 big bolts on the frame with the body bushings and have it all pull straight out
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I guess I'll update what I have
Carrillo rods
MMS pistons with valve refliefs
Hamilton springs and cam
ARP Headstuds
Clevite P bearings
60 over injectors
I am going with Mahle Clevite gaskets aswell, since they make GMs
What are your all recommendations on valve lash? alittle loose, GM?
Carrillo rods
MMS pistons with valve refliefs
Hamilton springs and cam
ARP Headstuds
Clevite P bearings
60 over injectors
I am going with Mahle Clevite gaskets aswell, since they make GMs
What are your all recommendations on valve lash? alittle loose, GM?