It would be cheaper(free
) for you to tear down your long block and bring them everything ready to go vs. dropping off a near complete engine. If you want to save money i'd take them the short block and heads off the engine.Engine build
- Thread starter x MadMAX DIESEL
- Start date
It would be cheaper(free
) for you to tear down your long block and bring them everything ready to go vs. dropping off a near complete engine. If you want to save money i'd take them the short block and heads off the engine.
Yeah thats true, and what I wanted to do... Just take it back to them to make sure its all timed correctly, but.... I don't have anywhere open to work on it. I will be pulling the engine in my buddies cluddered shop.
Talk the them but I'm betting you'll just take short block and if you want heads checked & trued & seats re-cut, you could take them installed or not. I'd say take em off first & strip them as well. Plenty of Baggies/containers and sharpies to label will be very handy. The more space you can use to spread things out (ie a large table or something) will be helpful. Take plenty of pics before & as things come off so you can see how they were to put em back as such.
Yeah that is true, I deffinatley want the heads checked, they will most likely need work. Think I had a blown hg aswell probably milling the decks too if its that bad from the hg. I know I have no trouble removing the heads, cp3, turbo, exhaust manifolds but past that I don't know what would need to be removed, water pump and stuff? Heres what I want hopefully this will help everyone understand what is going to happen..
So far what I gather from that is that I should take the heads off, send them the shortblock to start with there inspection, teardown.. bring them the heads also incase they need work (if they do I will just have them install the heads back on so I can save a trip going back there to insure I have it timed correctly)
list if what may go in it, this is hopefully gonna be pretty cheap. Please give me some insight as to anything else I may need, but only if it is a proven NEED..
lb7 cut pistons
head studs
carillos (if I get rods)
crank, cam, and wp keyway
probably milling the decks too if its that bad from the hg. I know I have no trouble removing the heads, cp3, turbo, exhaust manifolds but past that I don't know what would need to be removed, water pump and stuff? Heres what I want hopefully this will help everyone understand what is going to happen..So far what I gather from that is that I should take the heads off, send them the shortblock to start with there inspection, teardown.. bring them the heads also incase they need work (if they do I will just have them install the heads back on so I can save a trip going back there to insure I have it timed correctly)
list if what may go in it, this is hopefully gonna be pretty cheap. Please give me some insight as to anything else I may need, but only if it is a proven NEED..
lb7 cut pistons
head studs
carillos (if I get rods)
crank, cam, and wp keyway
I thought it would be best to bring it all together but my builder charged me an extra 120 for motor disassembling so check with who your going to get it built by.
i brought him a bare short block no cp3 no manifolds heads and w/p removed the timing cover was on he wanted the entire engine disassembled and he charged me 120 for disassembing just the short block
Gotcha, I will probably bring it longblock. Unless I get real curious to see the what all the pistons look like
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He will then prob charge you machine shop rate to do shop hand work
What do you mean timed correctly?
Sorry to hear about your bad luck Ben. It's not a cool club to be a part of.
You'll want to take them the motor completely torn down meaning pulling the rotating assembly out of the block. Give them the bare block, crank, different pistons and new rods if you get them. Usually they will handle the re-assembly of the short block then you put the heads back on etc.
Valve timing, I guess it won't be much harder than a regular old gas engine? Just bolt on the heads and work on the valve lash if they have the shoetblock finished? Ive never had a duramax apart, and they are much more expensive than an old smallbock that's why I don't want anything to go wrong, id just about shoot myself if I broke it again because of human error on something
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setting the valves is not hard. merchant automotive has detailed instructions on there site if u want.
Ben
Just a suggestion but if you bought a mechanics manual from GM it's pretty straight forward and step by step...you would save money and learn a lot
If your machine shop is not familiar with diesels I would tale it to one that is
Also nothing against machine shops but they tend to misplace lil things like sensors, bolts and small things that go on after the long block is built
I realize it's hard when you don't have a garage but it's rewarding
Just a suggestion but if you bought a mechanics manual from GM it's pretty straight forward and step by step...you would save money and learn a lot
If your machine shop is not familiar with diesels I would tale it to one that is
Also nothing against machine shops but they tend to misplace lil things like sensors, bolts and small things that go on after the long block is built
I realize it's hard when you don't have a garage but it's rewarding
Thanks that is helpful, Is every one still using .012 or go alittle higher? After 1 is tdc, one revolution should put 4 at tdc?
Also like said later on down the road I may put bigger valve springs in, just curious does somebody make a tool to compress the springs with the heads on like some engines can. Or is head removal nessacery, and using individual valve spring compresser tool?
Ben
You have been around long enough to know that"search" is your friend:hug:
Fwiw I set mine at 010 and ex 011 and never adjust after that
Josh and Travis swapped valve springs in the truck there is a thread on it also
Good luck with the build
Thanks Simon, I hope I don't need luck though :rofl: just wanting to get all this info in one thread for easy viewing.
Something to consider is a new oil cooler if you think you may have rane any metal particales thru it...it is near impossible to clean and can collect debri from a blown piston
If I was to disconnect the ac condenser without the proper equipment what would happen? Would it hurt it, would I just need to fill it with the refill stuff they sell at autozone? I really have never messed with anything ac related, so this maybe a dumb question, is it pressurized or under vaccum? I think its vaccum, just wondering if I should expect freeon to blow out everywhere when I unbolt the lines from the condensor or not
if you open up the ac lines you will need to replace the reciever dryer and the orfice tube at minumum before havin someone with a vaccum machine to suck the air and what moister they can out of the system. not a good idea if you can avoid it.