From what I've gathered by reading through some previous posts, I just have to remove the checkball and replace the spring with a longer one, is this correct?
Eliminating knockdown with the Transgo valve
- Thread starter DuramaxPowered
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It has to be long enough and strong enough to keep the valve seated till fluid stokes it. Make sure it has some heat treating so it doesn't calapse under heat or you will get uncontrolled TCC apply.
If I am unable to locate a spring, I will probably make a spacer to take the place of the checkball and re-use the transgo spring. It will basically be a .200 thick washer, with a hole in the center to eliminate the hydraulic force in the cavity where the checkball seats.......Should work, if I'm thinking about the operation of the valve correctly.
You would think someone would sell a spring specifically for this to eliminate having to track them down.
the spring company that made mine said it's good for 250* and they can make more resistant with another product. do im ok with them at 250* or im better to order more heat resistant ?? btw i have 100 of them if someone need some i can send by mail and i can send all the spec from the spring company by email
plug the end and cut a groove in the outer-most land parallel to the direction of travel. groove should only be 1/16" wide x 1/8" deep approx.
Tim
How do you plug the end of a later valve??.......
What you described only works on the older style of valve used on the LB7's and some of the early LLY's as the later valves have no passage through the inside. They route oil through the separator plate to achieve essentially the same thing. If you look at a fluid schematic you will see what I am talking about.
How do you plug the end of a later valve??.......
Then why did Transgo put a check ball and spring in the valve in the late ones?