egr, g plugs, injectors

[whitetrash21]

Don't think so Wes. GP controller is gonna have em hot all or none. So if say it stuck on all would be on and wouldn't last to long before it burnt it self out or roasted all the glow plugs! Im not to sure about the LB7 EGR crap but theres gotta be away to ditch that crap!

so there's no way to have one or two hot then?? when all 8 kick on with the truck cold, the voltage gauge only shows about 10.5-11 vts charge. oince they kick off, it jump to ~13.9. the voltage guage has shown 13.9 even with the alternator not workin right. thats why i thought m,aybe one or to plugs had somehow gotten stuck on and were draining the batteries faster than the alt could charge it.....

thanks for the clarification.

Wes yo ucan use my extra PPE if you wanna check your bal rates. Also I got a couple good meters you can use to find you voltage drop.

may take you up on that offer. let you know soon. thanks

How are you checking to get the 11 volts?

autozone guy tested each battery with the truck off. both showed ~9.8 vt of charge with the batteries still being good. left the tester attached and turned the truck on. voltage jumped to 11.7 and no higher. i know its supposed to be ~14 volts charging, thats where the alternator idea came from.

Let me know.

did i ever mention me and electrical dont get along.....



and no, sheepster, the hammer didn't fix it. appearantly i have an electrical problem.... :joker::rofl:

 

[MMLMM]

did you test it after the Alt. change? Ill stick a meter on there next time I see ya and check it.

I have no Idea on the EGR issue. I am getting a code on my truck and I have the damn thing turned off, blocked and the code set to not report....

 

[whitetrash21]

did you test it after the Alt. change? Ill stick a meter on there next time I see ya and check it.

just got it done about 2 hours ago. drove it 10 miles, parked it and restarted. seems fine, but i'm lettin it cool down, then try ti again.

meter aint a bad idea. all my stuffs still in cali, sooooooo...... thanks for offerin

I have no Idea on the EGR issue. I am getting a code on my truck and I have the damn thing turned off, blocked and the code set to not report....

egr is just a bad design. thread on dp now with a shitload of people saying they're getting codes, parts failures, and multiple failures of egr functions....

as long as it still drives, fk it. aint hurtin nothing that i'm aware of.

 

[whitetrash21]

another question: will a regulator tick if it starts to or is going bad??? loud tick??

edit: tried the old metal rod trick. seems like the loud tickin sound is coming from the part circled in red. put it against vlv covers, pretty quiet, put it against head, still quiet.

video uploading. its very noticable in that.

 

[MMLMM]

egr is just a bad design. thread on dp now with a shitload of people saying they're getting codes, parts failures, and multiple failures of egr functions....

as long as it still drives, fk it. aint hurtin nothing that i'm aware of.

Wes....what about the enviroment......you should think about that.....

 

[whitetrash21]

Wes....what about the enviroment......you should think about that.....

well it failed in san diego, which is very mild weather, IMO. and now its failed in vegas, which gets a little toasty. i think my options are now to move to alaska and see if it fails there. ....

unless, by environemnt, you're referring to living under the hood of a truck owned by me..... :angel::rofl:

 

[MMLMM]

well it failed in san diego, which is very mild weather, IMO. and now its failed in vegas, which gets a little toasty. i think my options are now to move to alaska and see if it fails there. ....

unless, by environemnt, you're referring to living under the hood of a truck owned by me..... :angel::rofl:

Dont worry when I left the BBQ yesterday, I'm pretty sure I made everyone that was geeting smoged at the time fail within a couple mile radius....lol.:angel:

Let me know what ya need wes, I got tools and a garage you work under during this rain, oh ya measure that rack height, lol.

 

[whitetrash21]

here's a video to go with the pic. pretty sure the ticking is coming from circled part....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCe2NTRp2hk

 

[mytmousemalibu]

here's a video to go with the pic. pretty sure the ticking is coming from circled part....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCe2NTRp2hk

Well Wes, the circled part is the drivers side fuel rail, there will prolly always be some noise coming from it from pressure pulse of the injectors firing. In the vid it does sound kinda loud but its hard to say with out seeing nit in person. Could be an injector gettin crappy? GM does have a bullitin out about "ticking noises". They state that it can be heared at idle/low speed or like when driving round a drive throgh you can hear it off the building, etc. They claim it is variances in crankshaft tolerances and is normal. Sure wish i could be more helpful

 

[whitetrash21]

Well Wes, the circled part is the drivers side fuel rail, there will prolly always be some noise coming from it from pressure pulse of the injectors firing. In the vid it does sound kinda loud but its hard to say with out seeing nit in person. Could be an injector gettin crappy? GM does have a bullitin out about "ticking noises". They state that it can be heared at idle/low speed or like when driving round a drive throgh you can hear it off the building, etc. They claim it is variances in crankshaft tolerances and is normal. Sure wish i could be more helpful

is the regulator then attached to the cp3?? i thought the regulator was mounted on the rail..... i put metal bar on the vlv cover and on the head (yes i know, its kinda hokey) and both are quiet. doesn't seem to be a lot of rattle or vlv train noise coming from either. however, when i put the bar on the circled part (rail??), there is a very distinct rattle and its not consistent....


i'm not trying to get worked up over a noise. my el camino had moments that sounded FAR worse than this. .... however, as to the 6.5 sound the truck makes all the time, stewietuned suggested a possible problem with the regulator. if the regulator (or rail) has odd sounds or ticking coming from it, would the regulator become even more of a likely culprit for the tickin and the bad 6.5 type rattle the truck makes under power???

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Well the FPR is on the CP3, also called the FCA, that controls the rail psi. The 6.5 rattle sound you hear sounds alot like injector/combustion/lean rattle if im on the same page.

Do you have a lift pump? If not it helps, but a dirty fuel filter can cause trouble too. I prefer the old style of fuel filter cause the new type caused more rattle on mine (no LP)

 

[whitetrash21]

Well the FPR is on the CP3, also called the FCA, that controls the rail psi. The 6.5 rattle sound you hear sounds alot like injector/combustion/lean rattle if im on the same page.


Do you have a lift pump? If not it helps, but a dirty fuel filter can cause trouble too. I prefer the old style of fuel filter cause the new type caused more rattle on mine (no LP)

answers that question. thanks

no lift pump. fuel filter was changed about 2k miles ago, right before i took this trip. the rattle i'm talkin about sounds like the pilot injection is off all the time. the way the truck sounds at 2500+ rpm is the way it now sounds at 1000 rpm and up.....

whats the difference in old/new filters?? runnin a napa filter now, plastic guts (new to me).....

 

[mytmousemalibu]

answers that question. thanks

no lift pump. fuel filter was changed about 2k miles ago, right before i took this trip. the rattle i'm talkin about sounds like the pilot injection is off all the time. the way the truck sounds at 2500+ rpm is the way it now sounds at 1000 rpm and up.....

whats the difference in old/new filters?? runnin a napa filter now, plastic guts (new to me).....

I used to have pic's somewhere? The new type has (top) 4 oval holes near the center of the filter and the old type has a bunch of small holes around the edge by the filter threads. I notice a lot of rattle after there had been a fair load on the engine and i take my foot out of it and step back down, just had been having trouble recovering rail psi IMO.

 

[whitetrash21]

not sure which filter i have. dont remember how many inlets it had. i returned the truck to stock after the slow start issue, thinkin i had gp issues and would have to take it to dealer. 6.5 rattle still there even with the stock tune in and no heavy foot.

may have to look at regulator if this keeps up.....

thx for the help myt....

 

[mytmousemalibu]

not sure which filter i have. dont remember how many inlets it had. i returned the truck to stock after the slow start issue, thinkin i had gp issues and would have to take it to dealer. 6.5 rattle still there even with the stock tune in and no heavy foot.

may have to look at regulator if this keeps up.....

thx for the help myt....

No prob buddie! :hug:

Ya could be a reg. or CP3 gettin soft or somethin else? Could be a number of differant issues which blows, but u'll get her sorted out!

 

[MMLMM]

not sure which filter i have. dont remember how many inlets it had. i returned the truck to stock after the slow start issue, thinkin i had gp issues and would have to take it to dealer. 6.5 rattle still there even with the stock tune in and no heavy foot.

may have to look at regulator if this keeps up.....

thx for the help myt....

wes the regulator it the part we were looking at on my 2nd cp3 (remeber it said "wicked Diesels" on it, lol). I have a good stock one you can try if someone will chime in and say if it will work on a LB7 vs. LMM, I think just the plug is differnt (mine 90* out of itself).

Here is the only pic I have of it..
Stock on right.

 

[NelsonDiesel]

can't use the lmm one - well ya can but efi live would be needed for some idle adjustments.

 

[whitetrash21]

well, new alternator and two good batteries and still losing charge. something, somewhere is draining the batteries and FAST!!. i disconnected all the A/V stuff thinking maybe it was that..... still losing charge.

if i stop the truck, turn it off, and immediately restart, it rolls over fine. however, stop it, shut it down and let it sit for 2 minutes and restart and it start rollin slow.... let it sit all night and get cold, rolls REAL slow.....

ideas??

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Need to do a drain test Wes heres how...
need to unhook both batteries (just take both POS ends off) and get a DVOM (digital volt and ohm meter) and set to Amps and plug the leads into the highest amp rated plug so you dont roast the meter fuse. (prob gonna be 10a Max) Make sure the key is off and better out of the ignition. Now hook one test lead to one of the positive bat cable (still un hooked, stays un-done) and stick the other end to the POS end on the battery and turn your meter on to amps. The initial readings are gonna be high as soon as systems recive power again and systems go "to sleep". After a short bit 5-10min? the amps should be no more than 30-40Ma (milliamps) anymore than that is gonna be more than i would want. Once you comfirm that the amp draw is above that, one of the easyest ways to find the drain is to pull fuses out one at a time and re-place them if there is a neglible to no differance. Till you fine one that dose!

EX: you have a drain of 1.5 amps and you pull a fuse and no change or very minor change, put that fuse back, say the next one you pull and the Amps drop to 32Ma, thats your drain, now look up that fuse and see what it goes to. Say that fuse is for interior lighting, you put that fuse back and push on the glovebox hard and the amps drop... You found the problem...bad glovebox lamp switch!

Now i would do this with the doors open so you can check this kind of stuff but you need to trip the door latches w/ a screwdriver to keep the lights off, (same for hood lights, dashlights and such, etc)

Hope this helps! :hug:

 

[whitetrash21]

Need to do a drain test Wes heres how...
need to unhook both batteries (just take both POS ends off) and get a DVOM (digital volt and ohm meter) and set to Amps and plug the leads into the highest amp rated plug so you dont roast the meter fuse. (prob gonna be 10a Max) Make sure the key is off and better out of the ignition. Now hook one test lead to one of the positive bat cable (still un hooked, stays un-done) and stick the other end to the POS end on the battery and turn your meter on to amps. The initial readings are gonna be high as soon as systems recive power again and systems go "to sleep". After a short bit 5-10min? the amps should be no more than 30-40Ma (milliamps) anymore than that is gonna be more than i would want. Once you comfirm that the amp draw is above that, one of the easyest ways to find the drain is to pull fuses out one at a time and re-place them if there is a neglible to no differance. Till you fine one that dose!

EX: you have a drain of 1.5 amps and you pull a fuse and no change or very minor change, put that fuse back, say the next one you pull and the Amps drop to 32Ma, thats your drain, now look up that fuse and see what it goes to. Say that fuse is for interior lighting, you put that fuse back and push on the glovebox hard and the amps drop... You found the problem...bad glovebox lamp switch!

Now i would do this with the doors open so you can check this kind of stuff but you need to trip the door latches w/ a screwdriver to keep the lights off, (same for hood lights, dashlights and such, etc)

Hope this helps! :hug:

gonna play with it tomorrow. will try this out, see what i get. thanks man. let you know what happens.....