Duramax swapped Trailblazer SS...you might say why?...I say why not.

[MattKatz]

So, where are you at on the TB now? Whats the plan for the suspension? Rear axle?

I havent touched it in about a week. Had some family issues arrise I had to deal with so this got set aside. Its just a project, so I have no "End date" that it has to be done by....I just want it running ASAP. Suspension is basically stock. Gonna use the Stock Rearend, stock suspension points, air bagged in rear (originally) and I am putting in new Firstone bags with Ridetech brackets. 4 Link bars will either get swapped for prefabbed ones or I will make my own, same with the Panhard bar.....all adjustable. I will probably put a small C notch in the rear frame to go a little lower in the rear when its laid out. I decided the Holley Intake deal isnt gonna happen right now either, Im just having too many interference issues with the way they lay out EVERYTHING on the top of these motors. I need to relocate the AC Compressor to a low mount location and I need a Power steering option with a small or remote mount reservoir to help with the now forward facing manifolds and piping for the Turbo. Anyone have any suggestions here. I am all ears. I think I am gonna either modify the stock LBZ Y-Bridge or order me a set of Empire flanges and build my own to clear the accessories until I can come up with a reasonable solution that I like for the holley if I do it. I ordered a new and even slimmer Efan setup last week as well to hopefully add me a little room between the motor and radiator/fan setup to help with placing things where I want them, not just where they will fit. Other than that, Thats where I am. I did some mockup for front bags as well last week, but the results were not good and put me back to the drawing board on how to make that work as well. It seem the closer I get to really being able to complete this to a running truck, the harder the truck fights me to stay sitting on jacks in a garage.

Grrrrrr.

 

[bcdeutsch731]

The donor truck I used for my swap was a Workhorse bus. It used a different P/S pump and bracket with a remote mount canister for the oil. I may still have it all if your interested in buying it.

 

[MattKatz]

The donor truck I used for my swap was a Workhorse bus. It used a different P/S pump and bracket with a remote mount canister for the oil. I may still have it all if your interested in buying it.

I cam make pretty much any GM pump work, the LMM/LML Pumps look like they will be the cleanest and easiest option with the small attached plastic reservoir. Get me pics of what you are talking about though, I might be interested if it fits the bill and the price is right. My biggest hurdle is that Damn AC compressor and location. I'm going to set the stock one on there and see if the hood even clears it in that position, if it does, then I have to make sure the hoses and flange for the hoses do. I hate the accessory setup on these. I get why they work in the trucks, but man, I have a HUGE hole on the passenger lower side I would love to stuff the AC compressor in similar to how the factory LS setup is in this truck, but I need to find a compressor that's as small as possible that has either a rear discharge/inlet or a side vs. the factory top style as it just wont work. I can skip AC for now if I have to since its winter, but I do like to put things all together for the main components and tweak from there....Its one thing to change things up later to make it better, but its another to skip it entirely....I'm lazy but not that damn lazy. :giveup:

 

[TheBac]

Would something like one of these work?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holle...LS-Acc-Drive-Brackets-Pass-Side-AC,65092.html
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/air-conditioning/g3-relocation-kit
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3916-dirty-dingo-ls-r4-ac-bracket-assembly.aspx

I know they are for LS engines, but they might work. You could move the alt to the 2nd position and then possibly fabricate one of them in? You'd be delving into new territory.

 

[ikeG]

Check out the lly c45/5500 y bridge setup. Might be of use? Exits straight out the front and stays low over the thermostat housing

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[schulte]

Apologies if this is off topic, but is this you?

http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/members/forcefed.html

 

[MattKatz]

Check out the lly c45/5500 y bridge setup. Might be of use? Exits straight out the front and stays low over the thermostat housing

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

Do you happen to know a part number for it by chance....Ive found that trying to find Kodiak parts is difficult without part numbers because they are not really a "Consumer" vehicle...so they dont show up as easily when I try to search them. It took me forever to get part numbers on my Oil pan Im using from a Kodiak, and had an experienced Duramax buddy not had one, I would have never known about it and probabaly built a pan from scratch. Same with the Manifolds Im using, The kodiaks arent really any bigger or smaller internally, but they are tighter to the block which gave me clearance where I needed it and where the stock manifold just wouldnt have worked on the passenger side of where the motor sits in the truck now.

Would something like one of these work?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holle...LS-Acc-Drive-Brackets-Pass-Side-AC,65092.html
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/air-conditioning/g3-relocation-kit
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3916-dirty-dingo-ls-r4-ac-bracket-assembly.aspx

I know they are for LS engines, but they might work. You could move the alt to the 2nd position and then possibly fabricate one of them in? You'd be delving into new territory.

Ill look at these, but I think you're kind of onto the same idea I had in my head...I just have to find one that will fit where I want it and making hoses will be easy once I get the Compressor in hand.

Apologies if this is off topic, but is this you?

http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/members/forcefed.html

I cant see that Forum, Im banned there, Very long story, but based on the link Id say your looking at my profile there. I wont go into details, but I got into some bad shit at one point on one deal, got myself in trouble and it caused me a lot of headache. Theres also a TON of lies surrounding that same situation, so if you go there reading, youre only gonna see one side of the story if you decide to dig that deep. I took care of it, but in the process I pissed off a bunch of people. Im not proud of it, but Im also not afraid to stand up for myself and say that ive done 1000x more good than bad in my life, so if youre trying to find a reason to start shit here....Just dont waste your time or mine, its not worth it, Im sure neither of us need it or need to waste the time on it, and it has no bearing on anything Im doing now, and especially not in this thread....This would have been a bit more appropriate to ask in a PM IMO...but here we are. I would hope the mods/admins here appreciate this as well and would remove this as well since its not really warranted, relevant or needed. :thumb:

 

[ikeG]

Do you happen to know a part number for it by chance....Ive found that trying to find Kodiak parts is difficult without part numbers because they are not really a "Consumer" vehicle...so they dont show up as easily when I try to search them. It took me forever to get part numbers on my Oil pan Im using from a Kodiak, and had an experienced Duramax buddy not had one, I would have never known about it and probabaly built a pan from scratch. Same with the Manifolds Im using, The kodiaks arent really any bigger or smaller internally, but they are tighter to the block which gave me clearance where I needed it and where the stock manifold just wouldnt have worked on the passenger side of where the motor sits in the truck now.

There is a pic of a lly. I can get you vin to type in gmpartsdirect or at least call a dealer


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[MattKatz]

Appreciate the pic but that's just a mess, by the time I modify it to my liking, I might as well mill out a new part.

Can someone tell me the True reason for Dual T-stats in the Duramax, because I believe they both open within just a few degrees of each other correct? If so, I am assuming its for volume when towing, which wont really apply here, so I am thinking I might make a Single stat setup right off the radiator and just emiminate that entire mess with the crossover/t-stat housing and the hose connection at the motor. This would allow me in theory to run a single hose to the rear of the motor for the supply, bring the crossovers together with an AN style setup, and if needed tap in the bypass at an appropriate location allowing me to eliminate the water pump all together from the block and remote mount it. Is that Blue ugly WP block off plate the only thing available for block off....I mean Yuck....Cant we get a raw or somewhat nice looking plate for over $100 for a 5 minute milling process and $.50 worth of material. Diesel taxes suck.

 

[DAVe3283]

You could remove the factory water pump, just be sure to run the coolant through the factory oil cooler or build yourself one heck of an aftermarket setup. A very large percentage of the heat generated in the Duramax is in the piston bowl, which is cooled only by oil. There is a reason the first place 100% of coolant flow goes is through an oil cooler.

I would think that if you are able to get the coolant volume through one thermostat, then that should be fine. Especially for something that doesn't see hours on end towing. But just be careful the flow rate and pressure through the heads is high enough to prevent flash boiling of the coolant under full load.

And yes, I agree 100%, the diesel tax is ridiculous. Doing a LS swap into an old truck with a buddy, and it is almost stupid how cheap everything is for the LS in the aftermarket.

 

[c20elephant]

Appreciate the pic but that's just a mess, by the time I modify it to my liking, I might as well mill out a new part.

Can someone tell me the True reason for Dual T-stats in the Duramax, because I believe they both open within just a few degrees of each other correct? If so, I am assuming its for volume when towing, which wont really apply here, so I am thinking I might make a Single stat setup right off the radiator and just emiminate that entire mess with the crossover/t-stat housing and the hose connection at the motor. This would allow me in theory to run a single hose to the rear of the motor for the supply, bring the crossovers together with an AN style setup, and if needed tap in the bypass at an appropriate location allowing me to eliminate the water pump all together from the block and remote mount it. Is that Blue ugly WP block off plate the only thing available for block off....I mean Yuck....Cant we get a raw or somewhat nice looking plate for over $100 for a 5 minute milling process and $.50 worth of material. Diesel taxes suck.

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=928819&postcount=84

Full open does not occur till about 230 degrees.

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[MattKatz]

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=928819&postcount=84

Full open does not occur till about 230 degrees.
=

KILLER POST....Thanks man. gives me a bit more perspective on what I need to do to accomplish proper cooling and sequencing. :woott:

 

[bcdeutsch731]

Call these guys. Talk to Austin and he can help you out. They make all types of billet parts for the dmax.
http://www.waglercompetition.com/product-category/chevy/

 

[MattKatz]

Ive talked to them before....They are out of my price league for most of their parts...Even simple stuff. Its nice, I just aint got it like that. Like I said, this is the "Budget" Junkyard LS equivalent swap with a Dmax. Maybe later I can spend coin on big boy parts....for now Ill have to live with 600 or so HP and some handmade parts, killer deals on used and robbing who I can when I can for parts from buddies....I got too much in this thing already.

 

[MattKatz]

Question for the versed Tuners

Does anyone familiar with the LB7 OS know if there is a way to enable or add control of electric fans with EFI Live. Id like to have actual PCM Based control of the fans I am putting in and it makes a difference how I build the harness if it can control it, and if it can control both a low and hi stage as well like a typical LS OS Can.

Wheres my Tuner Guys....This should be a straight forward answer....But I know not a lot of guys probably have used Electric fans on the trucks because they are deemed as "less" of an upgrade...but in a swap application like mine, Im sure you can see the need or use for it.

 

[Dallas S]

Does anyone familiar with the LB7 OS know if there is a way to enable or add control of electric fans with EFI Live. Id like to have actual PCM Based control of the fans I am putting in and it makes a difference how I build the harness if it can control it, and if it can control both a low and hi stage as well like a typical LS OS Can.

Wheres my Tuner Guys....This should be a straight forward answer....But I know not a lot of guys probably have used Electric fans on the trucks because they are deemed as "less" of an upgrade...but in a swap application like mine, Im sure you can see the need or use for it.

No ECM control of fans within efi live for an Lb7

For PS, the vans ran the same pump as the pickups, but remoute mount resi. Maybe some help

 

[MattKatz]

No ECM control of fans within efi live for an Lb7

For PS, the vans ran the same pump as the pickups, but remoute mount resi. Maybe some help

Can any OS do Fan Control for the Duramax line, and if so, do they have a hi/low staging sequence....I can always put a different PCM in I am sure since I have to marry harnesses anyway. What about LLY?

Ill try to see if I can find the van PS setup, but I think an LMM will work without having to remote mount it, I just need to look at one in person to figure it out, maybe take a measurement or two. From pics it looks like itll work, Im just trying to get clearance for the exhaust to turn down before it hits the back of it.

 

[gmc502]

fan control is gonna be an aftermarket deal.

 

[WVRigrat05]

Can any OS do Fan Control for the Duramax line, and if so, do they have a hi/low staging sequence....I can always put a different PCM in I am sure since I have to marry harnesses anyway. What about LLY?

Ill try to see if I can find the van PS setup, but I think an LMM will work without having to remote mount it, I just need to look at one in person to figure it out, maybe take a measurement or two. From pics it looks like itll work, Im just trying to get clearance for the exhaust to turn down before it hits the back of it.

LMM power steering is the same as the LB7 other than it has a raw metal resi instead of a black one.

As far as fans there's no way to control them with efi, but there's a couple threads on here where guys have built them to come on and off according to temps and as well with the speed control.

 

[rfletes79]

Does anyone familiar with the LB7 OS know if there is a way to enable or add control of electric fans with EFI Live. Id like to have actual PCM Based control of the fans I am putting in and it makes a difference how I build the harness if it can control it, and if it can control both a low and hi stage as well like a typical LS OS Can.

Wheres my Tuner Guys....This should be a straight forward answer....But I know not a lot of guys probably have used Electric fans on the trucks because they are deemed as "less" of an upgrade...but in a swap application like mine, Im sure you can see the need or use for it.

Ive been running an LB7 in my chevelle now for 7 yrs. and just this yr I felt it was necessary for a fan..... It was a stock LB7 tuned, making approx 600hp and weights in at 4200lbs. I put over 50k miles on it like this, no fan whatsoever and always on this tune. Live in Northern Ca, summers get to over 100.............. In traffic, freeway speeds and racing have never had an issue. Even in 105 degree weather, stopped in traffic idling for hours would not go over 205 (at zero airflow). Normal driving temps for my car has always been 180-190.

I've made some turbo upgrades this yr and it seems to be making a little more heat in the engine compartment, so I added a small electric fan on a toggle switch.

These motors make no heat until you really start pushing them, and taking them out of their respective home (and putting them in something much lighter) makes a huge difference.

Nice build.......