duramax in s10

02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
well i finally picked an engine up for this project but it did not come with anywireing and is an lly what would i need for basic things to get the engine started it is going to be a drag truck only

also is there anyplace that sells dry sump oil pans or kits i am trying to get the engine to sit lower or is it possible to notch a factory pan
 

02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
well ive been collecting parts for this project its still a long way from being done but I only get to work on it on the weekends if im not working ive just been test fitting everything started on the firewall last weekend but don't have pictures of that yet but heres some progress
 

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SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
Am I seeing things correctly?? The second charger is mounted to the truck frame?? Does that mean you are going to mount the engine to the frame with rigid mounts that have zero give or run flex joints in all of the compound turbo pipes???

I was always led to believe the second turbo needs to be supported on the engine so it moves with the engine. Apparently they'll develop leaks or crack things when mounted to the frame if the engine has flexible mounts (i.e. stock rubber mounts)??

Or have I misunderstood yours or others' setups?


Regardless, this is an awesome endeavor! I'd love to have a dmax-powered s-dime!!
 

02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
Yes they are solid engine mount that is not the finally spot for the turbo just wanted to get a look at everything it will sit higher and i will have to look in to the cracking of pipes and go from there it will also have a fiberglass front end
 

02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
This weekends progress
 

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blk smoke lb7

<-----Lots of green $
Nov 8, 2010
5,694
0
36
57
belvidere,ill
Looks good Ryan

That welder and co bottle should be in a cart........Ive seen the head knocked off a bottle and it went thru a wall before.
 

blk smoke lb7

<-----Lots of green $
Nov 8, 2010
5,694
0
36
57
belvidere,ill
What is the plan on the frame, are you building a frame within a frame to make it more ridged? or are you using the old frame as a jig to build the new inner frame and you will cut the old outer frame away later? I know a d max in a gasser frame the frame will twist pretty bad.

Also if your going with solid mounts you better Loctite the shit out of everything,i think I would have gone with a new set of motor mounts and done the getto motor mount fix to them.Vibration absorbing when needed and still grade 8 bolted all the way thru when you need it.JMO
 

02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
heres a few on the cage only get to work on it on weekend so progress is slow bed should be tubbed and rear bars for the cage should be in this weekend
 

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02ilduramax

Member
Jun 21, 2011
632
3
18
fulton,illinois
Ok i need some advice on what rear end. To use in this project i am thinkin aford. 9in will it hold the power and does any one have expirience with this axle or any others behind their repowers that take a beating
 

99s10

New member
Sep 15, 2013
1
0
0
im going to be doing the same with my extended cab 99 gmc sonoma and i was wondering if you have ran into any giant troubles with the job other then just fabricating everything?
 

dslhtrdr

Always learning
Nov 22, 2012
262
0
0
Sebastopol, Ca
Typically from what I've seen and dealt with, the chassis on most pro street and drag cars/trucks is built around the rear axle and tire choice. Not saying it has to be done this way though...

I'm biased, but I would recommend a fabricated 9" and 18.50" tires. That's what I'm running in my Camaro. Each chassis is different and the width of the vehicle and chassis plays a big role into how much tire you can fit. If you still have the bed, I would set it on the frame and take measurements from the outside of the frame to the wheel well lip to get a rough idea how much rubber you can fit.
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
10
38
Central Valley Ca.
Contact Strange. We had them build us a 9" bolt in with a 9.5" center section for the Chevelle, after going through three 12 bolts. The shorter the housing the better, let the tire take the hit not a long axle.

In the Drag Truck I narrowed the Stock D-max diff 16" and four linked it. 3.42 Gear with Ricks CM spool and big axle kit. It's got a 33-17-16 tire.
 
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bcdeutsch731

Member
Nov 4, 2010
619
13
18
41
Illinois
I took an 11.5 AAM rear end and narrowed it 12" and welded Ford big bearing ends on it. I had Moser make me some 5x4.75 axles and used their spool. I had about 150 runs on that rear end with no problems. I was able to find a factory 3.21 ring and pinion for it. Last year a was able to find a Mark Williams 11" for a steal so I bought that and four linked my truck.
When your trying to figure out how much to narrow your rear end you want about 3" of back spacing. This is where I went wrong and used my old wheels that were 7" bs and now I'm in a bind trying to find a bead lock wheel with that much back spacing.