I like having a dsp setup. If I want to pass someone, it goes to the floor so I can pay attention to other things rather than modulating the throttle. 500+HP on a salty winter road is no bueno
DSP5 haters discussion/argument/fight/etc
- Thread starter Ne-max
- Start date
^ Yep I could handle the race tune as a daily, but when the weather is bad it’s out right dangerous for most. My wife wrecked my truck in the rain due to the power. A valet almost did the same thing too and that was only my 500hp tune.
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What about the smoke tunes BRUH!:roflmao:
After having the dsp5 I don’t see a need for it in a DD
Dedicated sled/drag it’s nice for various track conditions but ultimately it’s just a convenience feature :thumb:
Now who is going to pony up and Free their L5P and give us some feedback
After having the dsp5 I don’t see a need for it in a DD
Dedicated sled/drag it’s nice for various track conditions but ultimately it’s just a convenience feature :thumb:
Now who is going to pony up and Free their L5P and give us some feedback
That’s the fing point, I don’t have a 1000hp truck... At best it could make 800 maxing out the current chargers... What’s the problem with loading up some progressively stronger tunes and seeing where your making progress? I tune my own garbage and like to make small changes then test it. The dsp works fine for me. If you don’t like it then don’t use the f@cker...
I’m being a douche? Hello pot meet kettle. Now your going to call me names? :rofl: Listen kid, when I need your advice or help I’ll ask you straight to your face.
Alright ladies, summer is over so no more arguing over opinions!
think everyone said their peace, time to move on
think everyone said their peace, time to move on
Alright ladies, summer is over so no more arguing over facts!
think everyone said their peace, time to move on
:rofl::hug:
Edit: can’t get the color to work on my phone. Highlight the (facts)
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Damn, and all because I said I don't like DSP switches. I never meant to start an argument. I do have a DSP switch in my LBZ, and I use it like many have said, to test tuning changes. The overall horsepower is the same, but when making timing, boost, fuel pressure, or throttle position changes, it makes it easier to compare than flashing one at a time. I have never understood why people say they have trouble controlling a high horsepower truck in bad conditions. I have never had trouble not pushing the pedal down hard. Do some people tune their throttles so they're super sensitive to throttle inputs? I always liked it to be more progressive for that very reason.
Leave us alone James nonsense is the only thing that’s got this thread alive all these years. lol
So you can tell me you have never been caught off guard spinning your tires when you’re rolling into it, because the boost hits in the rain, snow, or ice? I feel you can make the throttle as progressive as you want our power band still won’t be progressive. And for someone that’s not used to it or worse yet only driven vehicles with traction control it’s dangerous IMO. Of course I might be a little bit biases since my wife could’ve easily been killed in her accident due to her lack of throttle control.
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So you can tell me you have never been caught off guard spinning your tires when you’re rolling into it, because the boost hits in the rain, snow, or ice? I feel you can make the throttle as progressive as you want our power band still won’t be progressive. And for someone that’s not used to it or worse yet only driven vehicles with traction control it’s dangerous IMO. Of course I might be a little bit biases since my wife could’ve easily been killed in her accident due to her lack of throttle control.
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I’ve never had any problems in rain with my 80mm single and when the boost hits I always have plenty of traction. Now I will say in the snow I won’t let it come up on boost I drive around like an old lady. And I will agree a dsp5 is perfect for letting someone else drive your vehicle because they can’t handle it, but I will never let anyone drive my cars unless they know how to drive. I have too much money wrapped up into them to have them wrecked by an easily avoidable situation.
I totally agree with where you are coming from. While my tune is not as big as many here, I have broken traction a few times in bad weather. The good, this is it is quite controllable. It still goes ware ever you point the steering. The rear end doesn't kick out like some. I don't know if it is because it is a dually or something else but my SRW truck wasn't as predictable.
My throttle is definitely more responsive or touchy then stock but I am very familiar with the power band and how the truck behaves. If it was someone else driving it I would be a bit more nervous
oh im all for this discussion but couple tempers started coming up back there
i will add, i never drove on a small tune due to snow or traction. even hit black ice a few times not knowing it til the ass end came out from under me with cruise set but it was spinning at a throttle input that was no where near above stock power levels. tapped the cruise cancel button, correct into the slide and wait till traction catches. lucky the front end never lost bite and the rear end stayed to the back. never hit the brakes or throttle. That is all an issue of driving too fast for the conditions and nothing for power. really the only time power got me in trouble was trying to plow through 3-4ft of fresh snow and me trying to show off through snow covered dirt roads when we would go "snow wheeling". buried this big bitch deep a few times.
the way i look at it, if you dont have trac control and stabil control on, power wont make a difference if you know your vehicle and modulate with the throttle. you can get your self in trouble in a hurry with 520ft lbs of stock lb7 torque on crap roads if you are not careful.
i had a way harder time in my 2wd 4.3 v6 1500 with nv3500 and a locker in the snow. that got straight sketchy way too often.
Good tuning comes into play. My race truck all the tunes feel the same tell about 1/2 -3/4 throttle. I can see issues when tuners put all the fuel down low. A throttle pedal is fir controlling power.
Tuning is everything. When I first had Rob tune my truck, it was like a light switch. Had him drive it and he got it settled down.
Switched back to my own tuning and found out exactly why it was so hard for him to make linear! This combination of parts wants to come on hard.
But it is possible to make even a big single light progressively and predictably. Will it be super clean? Probably not. Will it light quick? Heck no. But there's enough tables even in the LB7 so I can have it mild at 3/4 throttle and lower, and more aggressive above that. How my truck leaves the line at 1/2 and full throttle is totally different. This was not a quick or easy result to achieve. Years of tune tweaks.
A DSP would have let me make a street tune and a race tune in a fraction of the time vs. this master tune. But with enough effort and stubbornness, I managed to make a 660 RWHP tune that drives smoother than stock in the snow, unless I mash the throttle.
The people with 800+ HP just have more work cut out for them to make one master tune, but I believe it's possible. Might not be worth the time investment over a DSP to some, and I can understand that fully.
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Switched back to my own tuning and found out exactly why it was so hard for him to make linear! This combination of parts wants to come on hard.
But it is possible to make even a big single light progressively and predictably. Will it be super clean? Probably not. Will it light quick? Heck no. But there's enough tables even in the LB7 so I can have it mild at 3/4 throttle and lower, and more aggressive above that. How my truck leaves the line at 1/2 and full throttle is totally different. This was not a quick or easy result to achieve. Years of tune tweaks.
A DSP would have let me make a street tune and a race tune in a fraction of the time vs. this master tune. But with enough effort and stubbornness, I managed to make a 660 RWHP tune that drives smoother than stock in the snow, unless I mash the throttle.
The people with 800+ HP just have more work cut out for them to make one master tune, but I believe it's possible. Might not be worth the time investment over a DSP to some, and I can understand that fully.
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There are several legitimate reasons to have a true DSP5 switch:
On a mileage tune for running empty you can get away with a little more timing than a tow tune run under load, and it will help the mileage. On VVT trucks you can also open the vanes at cruising mm3 to help the mileage when not under a load. Those things would both not work well while towing heavy loads.
Running on a high power tune will mean that you use less throttle input when driving conservatively, such as while towing. With light throttle comes earlier shifts, earlier shifts while towing will get you under the turbo. On a lower powered tune you will have to use more throttle while towing, effectively raising the shift points and making the truck tow nicer. Sure I can manually shift at a higher RPM, but many customers don't want to manually shift their automatic and why should they have to. Some people get annoyed by a turbo brake except when they are towing, so having it only on the tow tune is nice.
While racing if you are not full throttle (for bracket or what the track can hold) you are also going to have a lower shift point and a hard time staying consistent for bracket/index racing. A switch lets you run a tune that will run the number while WOT with shifts at a consistent RPM.
A low power tune for if someone else drives your truck is nice. A high idle tune is convenient for low speed cruise control (towing a camper through an RV park without your foot bouncing on the throttle), jump starting someone, warming up your truck or cooling off the interior faster, etc.
On a mileage tune for running empty you can get away with a little more timing than a tow tune run under load, and it will help the mileage. On VVT trucks you can also open the vanes at cruising mm3 to help the mileage when not under a load. Those things would both not work well while towing heavy loads.
Running on a high power tune will mean that you use less throttle input when driving conservatively, such as while towing. With light throttle comes earlier shifts, earlier shifts while towing will get you under the turbo. On a lower powered tune you will have to use more throttle while towing, effectively raising the shift points and making the truck tow nicer. Sure I can manually shift at a higher RPM, but many customers don't want to manually shift their automatic and why should they have to. Some people get annoyed by a turbo brake except when they are towing, so having it only on the tow tune is nice.
While racing if you are not full throttle (for bracket or what the track can hold) you are also going to have a lower shift point and a hard time staying consistent for bracket/index racing. A switch lets you run a tune that will run the number while WOT with shifts at a consistent RPM.
A low power tune for if someone else drives your truck is nice. A high idle tune is convenient for low speed cruise control (towing a camper through an RV park without your foot bouncing on the throttle), jump starting someone, warming up your truck or cooling off the interior faster, etc.
That is irrelevant. The truck doesn’t care how much weight it’s moving. It only knows 0-100% throttle input, make it work.