dsp 5 tune

[2004LB7]

We finally get a new guy that not only asks fun and and actual performance related questions, he also responds respectfully and is completely honest in his responses, and we attempt to run him off............................................

I know this stuff has been hashed out years ago, in the early days of this forum but, not all the answers are there, and it really isn't well organized. I know most of the needed knowledge comes from making changes and logging.

Why try to discourage a guy from asking legit questions when he has obviously put in a decent amount of effort to begin with.

2x

Well I did it the hard and slow way as recommend here, it would have been nice to have a little guidance along the way. I have years in tuning my own trucks and I am still nowhere near as skilled as some of the members here. Josh H's timing calculator was a life saver but it didn't do all I needed. I had to search high and low on the forums, not just here, in order to get to where I am now. Fish tuning tutorials where fantastic at filling in where many of the threads left off.

I would hate to see new members get turned away because "its already been talked about" or some other variation. Truthfully, one can spend a month reading the forum and still be scratching his head. Thats why it great to be able to ask the question again with maybe a different view or angle to see if the topic can be better explained.

Many would not be here in this forum if we told everyone to use the search function and read the stickies. While they should do that, a healthy conversation that is not lost in the hundreds of pages in the stickies can do wonders for the community. It keeps it from going stale and encourages new members to join and participate in advancing diesel preference

To the OP, dont give up. Do slow down a little and study the tune a bit more. While the Cummins and Duramax are both diesel, they are by no means the same engine or use the same tuning. It is helpful to have the Cummins tuning background as much of the theory applies. but to be honest, the Duramax community has been at it for many years longer than the Cummins community. A lot of hard work and broken parts went into making what we have now. So sit back and enjoy the ride. If you hang around long enough you can have one awesome running truck. It will take a lot of work on your end too but don't give up

Sorry for the long rant, Jason out...

 

[Dozerboy]

Oh my how did we get here.... one of the first product beginner tuning threads we've had in years. Then it's gets derailed because someone gets offended by the word hillbilly. We are better then this guys.

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[SickLL7Crenshaw]

Oh my how did we get here.... one of the first product beginner tuning threads we've had in years. Then it's gets derailed because someone gets offended by the word hillbilly. We are better then this guys.

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I didn’t get offended just making a point, but it’s posts like yours that derail it after it’s water under the bridge. Your right “we” are better then this and now your included.

 

[gmduramax]

I didn’t get offended just making a point, but it’s posts like yours that derail it after it’s water under the bridge. Your right “we” are better then this and now your included.

Shut up :thumb:

 

[SickLL7Crenshaw]

Shut up :thumb:

:hello: Anthony


I’m done

 

[2004LB7]

dylon, give this one a try. I didn't spend too much time making sure all is correct so you may want to look it over and double check everything. also I am basing this somewhat on my truck so it may not translate perfectly to yours. see how it runs. do some logs and adjust from there

Edit: I think I forget to do the timing in some of the DSP tunes

Edit #2: Ok, got the timing in DSP#3 & #4 fixed.

now everyone tear it apart

 

[TheBac]

Didnt mean to sound like a jerk, I just gave the same advice that Ive been given over the years when I first asked about different ways of tuning.
IMO there's just no way you guys can adequately "teach" a tuning class to a beginner thru posts. Theres just so much info to digest....

But -- that being said -- it might be fun to sit back and read what you guys DO come up with. Have at it. :thumb:
Id love it if you guys made me "eat my words" on this one.

 

[dylon333]

Well. So I had a long ass response thanking everyone and what not and telling how ive started work on my new base stock tune and all that. pressed post and my computer froze and lost the whole dang response so, this time going with the short sweet post. ill check back in, in a few weeks with my hopefully decent running tune. Thanks 2004 for taking the time to make changes ill look over that tune and figure out what and why you did what you did! Thanks guys!

 

[Dozerboy]

Good luck. Do some searching here and on DP. Read the posts oldest to newest. Most of the good info is probably pre2012. Look all the way back to stuff in 2005 maybe older. That when we where all learning together and has info related to your LBZ. Before that EFI wasn’t as well developed and you get into a lot of LB7 only stuff. The Basic concepts are the same for the LB7but there’s enough difference in the tables etc. that it can get confusing. Search EFI, tuning, timing, fuel pressure, pulse, boost, and cylinder pressure. In different combinations to find the good threads.

Maybe post links to the threads you find most helpful for future beginner tuners.


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[dylon333]

that's a good idea ill start saving all the threads and try to put together one thread, I cant be the only one getting into the dirty game little late

 

[Dozerboy]

Fingers is a very smart member that has posted a ton good info both here and DP. Can’t recall other member screen names.

Any of the tuners posts are worth a read. Mark, McRat, Rob, Bobo... damn my brain is failing me at the moment.


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[Fingers]

DSP is a great way to test N tune. Load your base tune for that session on 1 and load 4 candidates with minor changes of that base tune in the other 4. Now go play and log.

Something I did to help me out was wire in a push button to the input of the tuner. Then logged the button position. This let me flag areas of the log I wanted to take a closer look at by pushing the button. Much better than starting and stopping the logger since it gave information in context and happened instantly.

 

[2004LB7]

^^ that's a great idea. I think I am going to have to do this on my V2

 

[Chevy1925]

Wow i missed some stuff lol

OP, keep at it. The cummins guys were "born into efi live" so to speak so they didnt have to fight to figure out how to tune from scratch. tuning has become much more main stream than way back in the early 2000's when EFI Live added the duramax platform to their software. a whole lot of discussions were born to figure out the tuning in these trucks, what works, what doesnt, how to do better and so on.... till guys started ripping people off using their hard work as tunes to sell or profit off those willing to help cause they are too lazy to figure it out. Cummins guys just assume let a professional tuner handle it since their are so many already (even when it first was released). now because of the struggles way back when, you have TONS of threads on here and DP that are full of good and bad info. be careful what info you take for good and bad from old threads on DP and even some here. Times have changed and tuning has evolved.

You do not ever want to mess with defueling of a shift unless you 100% know what you are doing (and even then, most guys dont play with it). Defueling must stay in place to keep your trans and driveline parts alive. the allison is not a 48re and can tie up in gears giving you bad/hard shifts, this is a tie up. rule of thumb is, if it does not shift like stock after 50-100 miles of driving (mainly on a built trans, sooner on a stock trans), you have an issue. Flash the stock tune back in to verify the bad shifts go away and that it is in fact a tune issue.

Do not try to "make boost" meaning, dont try to clamp the vanes down and get more boost out of the turbo. you can kinda fudge this some on smaller tunes but you will be creating high drive pressures and really not gaining much at all performance wise.

you can use the vanes as a "turbo brake" for towing if you do tow. there are threads here on how to do that.

biggest thing is to make sure you get rid of the limiters that hold the tune from doing what you want it to.

3250-3350 is considered the "absolute max" for pulse width when messing with fueling but reality is, your CP3 will not handle it unless its new. Tune the truck to hold withing 1-2k rail pressure from commanded (if you command 26k and the truck makes 24-25k, you are doing good), this will be your max fueling till you get a lift pump and/or dual fuelers/larger cp3. Your stock pistons will not like to be hammered on with fuel and timing to keep that in mind.

timing is generally how ever much PW you use at WOT at 3250RPM divided by 100. so if you are using a 1850uS tune, at 3250RPM you should have 18* of timing. You can get by with more in cruise areas and even inch a little more in on top end for smaller tunes but its not wise to go too much more with your stock pistons. Josh H calc on here is a GREAT way for you to get your timing dialed, then play with from there.

there is more but thats the time i have right now.

 

[2004LB7]

^^ that's some good info right there. I especially like the rule of thumb about calculating timing.

 

[dylon333]

ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!

 

[bmc1025]

Do you have your EGR physically deleted or blocked? Using disable I have run into odd issues at cruise on an LMM that was still intact. I use the temperature enable.

Hand calculate your MPG to see if the DIC is lying. When you raise PW it starts to get optimistic.

Your PW table has an odd cell with 3660us

You seem to like a screaming whistle at idle!

The timing looks good in my opinion

Take this info with a grain of salt I am an amateur

 

[bmc1025]

Fingers I assume is talking about logging the External analog inputs on the V2, wire a push button switch to one of the inputs on the bottom of the V2 and log it using the matching input from the External Analog PIDs folder when setting up BBX.

 

[2004LB7]

Fingers I assume is talking about logging the External analog inputs on the V2, wire a push button switch to one of the inputs on the bottom of the V2 and log it using the matching input from the External Analog PIDs folder when setting up BBX.

Yep. Basically that is what he said

 

[2004LB7]

-table {0720} Main Injection Pulse: cell 80 MPa & 120 mm3 is not in line with others at 3660

-{B0992} & {B0993} Maximum Timing Map: whats with the 40+ degrees in the bottom left?

-EGR: use temperature conditions to disable the EGR.

-Desired Boost Low Altitude: you can add 8 to 10 PSI on the top end. these numbers are PSIA while the numbers you are seeing in the log are likely PSIG. so add your altitudes PSI to that number.

-Desired Boost Med Altitude: pretty much the same as low altitude but add 4 or 5 PSI at the top end.

-Desired Boost High Altitude: Same as the medium altitude

-for vanes: you can start with what you have (if you like the whistle) but I would run a log of the vanes and use those numbers to make adjustments. for upper altitudes, I would start by closing them up a little. maybe 5 or 10%. then whenever you happen to be up at one of those altitudes, run a log and adjust the tune. see here:http://www.fishtuning.com/VanePosition