dsp 5 tune

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
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Ok so on the altitude, my truck probably won't go far from home so I I probably don't need to worry too much about that then right?

B0720 I didn't worry too much about the 120/80 cell area because I didnt think I would hit that area all and it just got bumped up when pushing other cells up.

B0908 I think I'm missing something I don't see 40 degrees any where? But I didn't change much if any in the left side because didn't think I'd be there at all so left it"stock "

Yea I like the whistle but more trying to warm it up faster. It's been cold here, well until yesterday but getting cold again quick. I'll change that out during warm months

I'll check out that link tonight!
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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I dont have my computer so I havent looked at tour tune.

I wouldn't be bumping boost up if you making 30 psi now. There are 2 ways to tune boost in these trucks the vane/boost table or just the vane table. I learned with the vane/boost tables, but had to switch to just the vane table when I went with a modded stock turbo. Just something to think about.

You need to watch how much power you add on the stock trans. I think I stopped at 2400us on the big end.

There are cold start vane tables that you need to adjust. You don't do that in the normal vane tables. I built that into my tune but don't know if it really helped. If you clamp the vanes down you might be adding more heat but your also sucking in more cold air. I never got a chance to really test it.

I wouldn't mess with the high altitude tables until you're happy with what you got. That way you can just build them off what you have and are happy with.

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Forever

This 1 time, at band camp
Jan 4, 2009
363
4
16
Utah
Wow i missed some stuff lol

OP, keep at it. The cummins guys were "born into efi live" so to speak so they didnt have to fight to figure out how to tune from scratch. tuning has become much more main stream than way back in the early 2000's when EFI Live added the duramax platform to their software. a whole lot of discussions were born to figure out the tuning in these trucks, what works, what doesnt, how to do better and so on.... till guys started ripping people off using their hard work as tunes to sell or profit off those willing to help cause they are too lazy to figure it out. Cummins guys just assume let a professional tuner handle it since their are so many already (even when it first was released). now because of the struggles way back when, you have TONS of threads on here and DP that are full of good and bad info. be careful what info you take for good and bad from old threads on DP and even some here. Times have changed and tuning has evolved.

You do not ever want to mess with defueling of a shift unless you 100% know what you are doing (and even then, most guys dont play with it). Defueling must stay in place to keep your trans and driveline parts alive. the allison is not a 48re and can tie up in gears giving you bad/hard shifts, this is a tie up. rule of thumb is, if it does not shift like stock after 50-100 miles of driving (mainly on a built trans, sooner on a stock trans), you have an issue. Flash the stock tune back in to verify the bad shifts go away and that it is in fact a tune issue.

Do not try to "make boost" meaning, dont try to clamp the vanes down and get more boost out of the turbo. you can kinda fudge this some on smaller tunes but you will be creating high drive pressures and really not gaining much at all performance wise.

you can use the vanes as a "turbo brake" for towing if you do tow. there are threads here on how to do that.

biggest thing is to make sure you get rid of the limiters that hold the tune from doing what you want it to.

3250-3350 is considered the "absolute max" for pulse width when messing with fueling but reality is, your CP3 will not handle it unless its new. Tune the truck to hold withing 1-2k rail pressure from commanded (if you command 26k and the truck makes 24-25k, you are doing good), this will be your max fueling till you get a lift pump and/or dual fuelers/larger cp3. Your stock pistons will not like to be hammered on with fuel and timing to keep that in mind.

timing is generally how ever much PW you use at WOT at 3250RPM divided by 100. so if you are using a 1850uS tune, at 3250RPM you should have 18* of timing. You can get by with more in cruise areas and even inch a little more in on top end for smaller tunes but its not wise to go too much more with your stock pistons. Josh H calc on here is a GREAT way for you to get your timing dialed, then play with from there.

there is more but thats the time i have right now.

Good Info James! Thanks
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!

Tune looks pretty damn good for your first go around with a dmax. Now its going to come down to logging and tweak. i agree with what everyone else has posted but if you are on a stock trans, thats a pretty hot tune for it. The 2000uS you found was probably for a stock trans safe tune but even then, thats hot in my opinion.

As for boost, i wouldnt add 10psi in. regardless if it has vanes or is a fixed geometry, you dont want to force the turbo to make boost unless you are trying to spool. Putting it on a dyno or putting a drive pressure gauge on is the best way to dial the vane positions in at WOT and max boost.
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
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Dozer boy... I'll look for those tables tonight. Thank you.. The trans is a stage one with converter, but not exactly sure what that consist of because I didn't build it. So I'm a little leary of it. I think I'm actually under 30 like more around 25ish after watching the edge box a little closer
 
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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Doizer boy... I'll look for those tables tonight. Thank you.. The trans is a stage one with converter, but not exactly sure what that consist of because I didn't build it. So I'm a little leary of it. I think I'm actually under 30 like more around 25ish after watching the edge box a little closer

better put a boost gauge in and change out the map sensor for one that reads higher. stock wont read above 25psi IIRC

What do you mean by not adding 10psi

2004LB7 was stating to add 8-10psi in the desired boost area on the top end to make the charger make more boost. i dont agree with this method but it doesnt mean im right either, thats why i was stating to put it on a dyno or hook a drive pressure gauge up.
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
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Ooo ok makes sense. I was under impression stock map would read up to 30 is that incorrect? Is there a different map sensor I can use to get it reading correct?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Ooo ok makes sense. I was under impression stock map would read up to 30 is that incorrect? Is there a different map sensor I can use to get it reading correct?

there is one from honeywell that will read to 100psi but you will have to rescale the map for it so it reads accurately. Otherwise Edge makes a secondary sensor you can plumb in and make the cts/cts2 read off it.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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Stock reads up to 30 but I wouldn’t trust it. A lot of guys killed turbos using the edge while learning to tune.

I guess I never asked but you are using the stock turbo right?

You can log converter slip. A lot of slip in first and part of second is normal but you should have almost no slip in the rest of the gears at WOT from the dig.


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dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
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Correct on the stock turbo. Ill have to log the converter slip next time i log. I thought the alli was really good about going into limp mode if it sensed any slippage?

How much fuel can i command in the power range, not so much top end but more so like mid range power area. On the cummins i went till i started getting smoke and then backed the fuel back down, till i had no smoke. Can i do that on the duramax too?

I'm not looking to crack any pistons but want to make power haha!
 

IdahoRob

New member
Jun 5, 2007
1,151
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0
ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!

Sorry but i didn't read through the whole thread, what are your goals? I'll move to some basics.

OK, looking at this tune that you posted on page 3 (think this is the latest tune posted), LBZ 1 street 3, i see some things that stand out.

1st, use the stock fuel pressure tables, they work well on a LBZ

2nd, use stock vane position tables. If you want to increase boost, then use the desired boost tables, not vane position. The stock boost tables show boost plus baro. Example, if you want 26psi of boost, then you need to add 26psi plus your baro, lets say 26 plus 12 baro = 38. set your max desired boost on the low elevation table to 38 (lower right of the table). Adjust accordingly at desired rpm. Tow tunes should have a couple/few more PSI in the mid range, fyi. Play with it for best egts and mpg, but don't go over 30psi boost (-baro) if you want to be safe. More boost will hurt mpg, fyi.

3rd, your main injection pulse table is jacked up. Use the stock table and add pulse to the lower/right area. Table should have declining pulse from high rail psi down (stock is the opposite of what i mean). This way if the truck can't keep rail psi, then the ecm will pull duration back until it finds a happy medium. If the pulse table goes from low to high as the rail psi drops, then the rail psi will drop like a rock as the ecm will keep demanding more and more duration as the rail psi drops. This is not good and will cause engine limp.

Your timing table is not too bad, you still have the stock timing limiters in place so i don't think you will have issues running what you have in that tune. There is a smoothing feature, you should learn to use it.

These are just some basic pointers. You have limiters active, not a bad thing, depending on your goals but could limit any changes that you make.
 

IdahoRob

New member
Jun 5, 2007
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0
By the way, LBZ stock boost sensor will read 52.6 psi max. If you log that and then minus the baro, you can still see boost psi way above what a stock turbo should be seeing. Log and look at baro and boost at idle then do the math from there.
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
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ok thanks i will change the pressure table back to stock. I haven't messed with the vane or boost tables other then changing idle vane position, which i change back to stock now.

I took the stock pulse table, and started adding pulse width to the bottom right corner, and then added it to the mid range. haven't messed with the left bottom side of the map, Should i be because you and 2004lb7 both made a comment about that area of my pulse table.

I had the table smoothed out but started making changes here and there but not sure if that's what your commenting on or not.
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
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assuming i need to change my limiters table and add a few degrees timing to the limiter table
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
1
18
really appreciate all the advice.

I changed pressure table back to stock, upped the timing limiter, changed vane positon table back to stock and adjusted the ect vane table. think i fixed what you guys were talking about in my pulse table, and smoothed out my timing table and fixed a few things in there after rerunning timing calculator. Going to load tune tomorrow morning and see what kind of changes this made.

here it is if anyone wants to check it out.
 

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Firefightkev

New member
May 30, 2014
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Central Florida
I dont post much but i have to say you are lucky that you have alot of guys with alot of experience helping you, they dont have to share but they do. This is why i keep looking at this site, alot if good people.:thumb:
 

dylon333

Member
Dec 24, 2017
173
1
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I know I am blown away by the generosity of the guys on this site! Glad I found it! And glad I posted asking for help!
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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better put a boost gauge in and change out the map sensor for one that reads higher. stock wont read above 25psi IIRC

2004LB7 was stating to add 8-10psi in the desired boost area on the top end to make the charger make more boost. i dont agree with this method but it doesnt mean im right either, thats why i was stating to put it on a dyno or hook a drive pressure gauge up.

let me try and explain my reasoning for the suggestion of adding boost. currently the tune maxes out at 37 PSI. since this includes atmospheric pressure. the boost will actually max out at around 22 or so PSI. adding 8 to 10 PSI to the map could allow him to take advantage of the full capability of the turbo by raising the max boost to 30~32.

now if it runs great and doesn't smoke too much at WOT then great, leave it that way. no need to add to the drive pressure as you touched on.

also, I think the MAP sensor maxes out at 32 PSIG.

this may not be correct but I hope this clears up my earlier post.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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Search on you tube there use to be a bunch of how to vids. Not really how to tune but how some of the functions does table editing work. Like smoothing cells, making maps, and etc.

Rob is right about the pulse table you only really need to add fuel in the lower right. If you need more fuel down low that done with maf limiting, but it will get smokey most likely.

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