Driveshaft/u-joint ????'s

whitetrash21

whitetrash21

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Talked to a couple people today....both told me that swapping out the 3 u-joints on my driveshaft would also require getting the shafts rebalanced. Anyone else heard this or have experience with it?? Done a few on different vehicles and never rebalanced....didn't know it was necessary. Got a 3000 mile trip coming up mid September and I'd rather not waste a yoke/diff/carrier if that's the case....
 
whitetrash21

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c20elephant said:
Just mark the yoke to driveline and reassemble them the way they were.
Click to expand...

Did exactly that on my short bed with alum drive shaft. I just heard the 2 piece jobs would need a balance after new joints. Not sure why but that's what I got told.
 
Dozerboy

Dozerboy

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X4 but I even forgot to mark one once and it was fine...50/50 it was right...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
whitetrash21

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Trying to find the right joint for this is becoming a pain. 308614 is the part number I got from the dealer but it's not cross referencing anything. They're also saying it's only for the front of the 2 piece shaft....not the rear. Are the joints different across this thing or no??

I just measured all 3 and they all share the same cap size.
 
Dozerboy

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All 3 should be the same as far as I remember, but you need to measure the width too. Merchant has a reference on his site based on those measurements as to which ones you need.
 
whitetrash21

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Dozerboy said:
All 3 should be the same as far as I remember, but you need to measure the width too. Merchant has a reference on his site based on those measurements as to which ones you need.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll check that out


Edit:. Just looked it up....1480 and 1410 are both 4.2" cap to cap. Difference being cap diameter....1.2" for 1410 and 1.4" for the 1480. Guess I'll be ordering from Merchant then. Thanks DB
 
whitetrash21

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Back to square one. Stopped at Dan's Drive line today, lead tech took it out. Doesn't think it's a bad u joint. Says it feels like something suspension/wheel/tire related. Frequency of the vibration doesn't feel fast enough to be in the drive line.

Had all 4 tires balanced Monday, didn't change a thing. Not sure where else to look. Truck gets a hop/buck thing going on ....more noticeable above 40mph. Also gets exaggerated when in T/H. Did find a broken motor mount....not sure that could cause this but I'm willing to start anywhere. Anyone else have any ideas??
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

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How old are the shocks? How much air in the tires? Did you rotate the tires after balance?

Personally, I'd drop the driveline and check it wes. Does nothing but take 30 mine of your time if they feel good.
 
whitetrash21

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Chevy1925 said:
How old are the shocks? How much air in the tires? Did you rotate the tires after balance?

Personally, I'd drop the driveline and check it wes. Does nothing but take 30 mine of your time if they feel good.
Click to expand...


Shocks are 10 months old. Tires are at 55 psi all the way around. Been that way since I out them on. Rotated tires 3 weeks ago....everything was fine. This just started Sunday on my way back from San Diego .

Probably gonna pull it for new joints anyway. They got a 130k on them...time for new.

PhilsLB7 said:
Wes I'll go way out on a limb here but could it be a case of frame beaming? That's usually felt somewhere above 40. Just a thought.


http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=429117&postcount=8
Click to expand...

There's a certain section of freeway here that is really bad....I've felt frame beaming before...usually when it's empty. This hop does its thing even with 1000+ lbs in the bed....doesn't feel like the beam issue.

TeaBagger2006 said:
Wesley,let big daddy help. I had and currently have the same or similar symptom on mine and it turned out to be a bad u joint. Look up 1415 joints .that's what i needed since 1410 are a **** hair bigger but still fit....... . I can verify this as being true since I had this problem with 1410 ujoints

Read this

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c629_1415_series_aam...outside..._4.178_x_4.178_inches.html
Click to expand...

I'll check it out. Gotta do something, this hop is driving me nuts. Where'd you order your joints from??
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

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Make damn sure you don't have a tire separating. It's hot up there in Vegas. If the tire guy rushed it, it's easy for them to miss a tire starting to bubble just a bit.

I'm betting a tire first, u-joint as my second choice.
 
whitetrash21

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Guy at drive line shop asked about a tire being out of round....I have no clue how that gets checked or caught. I went over them all myself....no obvious evidence of bulges or anything else.....but I'm not a tire guy so I may be missing something.


Wouldn't a tire issue be consistent?? This has a tendency to come and go. It's there a lot, but it also smoothes out occasionally, then comes back with a vengeance
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

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No, a separating tire can do what your talking about. Find a discount tire and have them check all tires for separations and also pay to have them throw it on a road force machine (unless you bought them from them or know some one in which case, it's free lol). Between those two things, that will for sure rule out tires/wheels as your issue
 
whitetrash21

whitetrash21

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Chevy1925 said:
No, a separating tire can do what your talking about. Find a discount tire and have them check all tires for separations and also pay to have them throw it on a road force machine (unless you bought them from them or know some one in which case, it's free lol). Between those two things, that will for sure rule out tires/wheels as your issue
Click to expand...

I'll wing in there tomorrow. Thanks James
 
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