you could try GM also Robert they have boxes of the ECM pins
Better bring dohnuts with ya though
Drive pressure Gauge
- Thread starter LarryJewell
- Start date
you could try GM also Robert they have boxes of the ECM pins
Better bring dohnuts with ya though
Connector Pins for Autometer Gauge
OK so I found some pins that work in the Autometer connector:
First went to the electronics supply store and they said "You Want What?"
Next went to the Chevy Dealer parts and they said "What's an ECM?"
Next went to the Toys for Trucks Store and they said "Go to Radio Shack"
Finally found the pins at a Hobby Store for RC Planes and Cars.
They are pins to make up Futaba radio control connectors. Company name is Custom Electronics out of Gilbert Arizona. They are gold plated and fit real well into the connector.
OK so I found some pins that work in the Autometer connector:
First went to the electronics supply store and they said "You Want What?"
Next went to the Chevy Dealer parts and they said "What's an ECM?"
Next went to the Toys for Trucks Store and they said "Go to Radio Shack"
Finally found the pins at a Hobby Store for RC Planes and Cars.
They are pins to make up Futaba radio control connectors. Company name is Custom Electronics out of Gilbert Arizona. They are gold plated and fit real well into the connector.
Gauge looks good Larry,I not to impessed with the Plastic hose though
Im going to send you some better stuff to replace it with
Gauge looks good Larry,I not to impessed with the Plastic hose though
Im going to send you some better stuff to replace it with
I doubt when its all said & done that there will be very much hose used, be it plastic or soething else. The alum tubing comes up and nearlu meets the elec. connection under the hood.
Are you going to be reading fuel pressure directly off of the FASS, If so, I'm using a mechanical gauge on mine with a fuel isolater, I have coolant running to the gauge in the truck. This is a lot cheaper route to go for reading the pressure. I'm using a 0 - 30 psi Isspro gauge for this and run a consistant 8 psi on the gauge.
But if you find the pins, I'll gladly pay for your trouble
Robert will also be logging his lift pump pressure
as soon as i get some more pins i will be doing the same
Gauge looks good Larry,I not to impessed with the Plastic hose though
Im going to send you some better stuff to replace it with
Its in and it works
Attachments
Its in and it works
Nice Larry:cool2:
I took a couple pics of the wires comeing out the back
Attachments
I'll do this as soon as I get the pins.......
I have one tune with nearly twice the drive pressure as boost, then another tune on the switch that has virtually the same drive pressure as boost. Funny thing is, the vane tables are similar. Its a dsp tune that has the similar drive pressure as boost pressure.
Only real difference is that the boost table commands lees boost.
I'll do this as soon as I get the pins.......
I have one tune with nearly twice the drive pressure as boost, then another tune on the switch that has virtually the same drive pressure as boost. Funny thing is, the vane tables are similar. Its a dsp tune that has the similar drive pressure as boost pressure.
different timeing and fueling can effect also,you need to do some more investigateing Larry
Does it matter where you come out of the harness with the new plugs Simon, or just find 2 vacant slots
, I am speaking without looking at the back of the gauge, guess I need to go look at it.
I'll do this as soon as I get the pins.......
I have one tune with nearly twice the drive pressure as boost, then another tune on the switch that has virtually the same drive pressure as boost. Funny thing is, the vane tables are similar. Its a dsp tune that has the similar drive pressure as boost pressure.
Commanded boost is only as good as the vane tables allow. Your vane tables have maximums and minimums that have as much control over your boost psi as a commanded boost table does.
For example.....command 20 psi(20 psi in a boost table means 20 minus your baro psi---so at 14 baro..20 psi of boost in the table is equal to 6psi of actual boost) of boost off idle and you will get the max vane position allowed for the rpm range you are in up to the boost getting to 6psi. If you command 15 psi off idle at 14 baro, your vane position will probably not hit the max allowed vane position because the create 1 psi of boost pretty easy and will relax the vanes once the boost is attained.
A hot tune creates more heat in the exhaust and the hot air expands. This will cause increased drive psi because the air is being held in by the vanes. Higher RPM has the same effect. The higher RPM creates more exhaust flow and the vanes restrict how fast the exhaust can exit the motor.
The key to monitoring drive psi for tuning a VVT are to get the correct vane position for the amount of boost needed in a given situation. Getting greedy can cause problems. I like to start at 60% max vane position and go up or down from there depending on the situation. LLY and LBZ chargers are different...and so is each truck. Try to keep your drive psi at or below the boost psi. I do not think that is possible with a stock VVT at WOT on a big tune, but we need something to shoot for.
Try to keep your drive psi at or below the boost psi. I do not think that is possible with a stock VVT at WOT on a big tune, but we need something to shoot for.
It simply will not Happen as far as im concerend,but i agree we need to shoot for something
Im not entirerly convinced 1:1 is best for a stock VVT turbo though
It simply will not Happen as far as im concerend,but i agree we need to shoot for something
Im not entirerly convinced 1:1 is best for a stock VVT turbo though
What about a slightly modified turbo
Very interesting Larry. You now a platform to experiment with a variety of modifications, including intake mods.
Hey, don't forget, the boost gauge is not telling you what PR the compressor is running at. This LLY sucker has some bigtime losses, both pre and post compressor. I guess what i am trying to say, is now you need a gauge that measures the differential between inlet and discharge.
For 30 psi of boost observed on the bus (efi) at high rpm, the differential will be around 40 psi or more. It's a mess of bad design, but that is a big part of your obs that drive P mulitplies quickly north with increased boost.
Hey, don't forget, the boost gauge is not telling you what PR the compressor is running at. This LLY sucker has some bigtime losses, both pre and post compressor. I guess what i am trying to say, is now you need a gauge that measures the differential between inlet and discharge.
For 30 psi of boost observed on the bus (efi) at high rpm, the differential will be around 40 psi or more. It's a mess of bad design, but that is a big part of your obs that drive P mulitplies quickly north with increased boost.
Well I have a spare boost gauge, where would you have me plumb this one to, right now my boost gauge is plumbed into the driver side boost tube. As soon as my new gauge pod arrives, I'll have a new hole for this extra boost gauge.
Larry be careful pins 10 and 4 as viewed from the back of the guage. I don't think the connector matches up with it's numbering.
Would a vacuum gauge plumbed in the inlet tube work for this? Then do the math based on 14.5 psi.
Referencing that with the boost taken from directly after the turbo, to get pressure ratio.
Just guessing.