Do not use Bilstiens shocks for drag racing !

[TrentNell]

trent, you have stock keys in just no bolts?
I have the 3" lowering keys, and 3 turns off of fully cranked. my cv's sit 2" higher on the spindle side than the diff side, so when i launch, the cv's are level. I cant really find anywhere to strap the front end down, so i got the drop keys, and fully cranked them. I also run the silver bilsteins, and was cutting low 1.7 60's.

yes i am running stock keys but i might be getting some lowere keys or control arms .

I had no issues last year running Bilsteins, cutting mid 1.7 60-ft's. I am not sure if I can do much better than that without stiffer shocks. I too think running a stiffer shock at the track would be advantageous for us.

i think i see a pattern me you and hondarider have the same 60's and the same shocks maybe not but ? i pulled a couple 1.76's in AZ . i will try the qa1's but need to wait a couple weeks or so to save some coin . i think once set up you could have street settings , and setting for the strip and just switch the nobs back before you head home . i think there are cheaper options that would work but i am going for the gusto on this i wont stop till 1.6's are the norm and 1.5* on a very lucky day

 

[othrgrl]

Both my truck and Chris's (DrHolliday) cut 1.66-1.68s almost every pass, on almost any tire, on almost any track.

We have done it on:
285 BFGs on PYOs
255 Tempra trail cutters on PYOs
275 Toyo Proxes on 16x8 racelines
265 Generic ATs on PYOs
305/50R20 Cooper XSTs on my 20s

He has completely stock suspension (shocks and all) with clamps on the front of the leaves.
I have SkyJacker Nitro 8000 shocks, traction bars, and 2" drop shackles on an otherwise stock suspension.

I've cut 1.59 on the cheater slicks.

Mike's 2WD CCSB cut a 1.9 with the cheater slicks on the rear on a stock suspension (no clamps).

Guys with cars all complain about traction at the tracks we race at but we always hook great.

I'm just wondering how guys have problems cutting 1.6 60's - doing all this trick stuff to suspensions and everything.

I start thinking I need to improve my 60s and have thought about the stiff rebound shocks, limit straps, some sort heavy duty "bungee strap", ect. but then I get on here and wonder if should change anything if it is working so well as is.

 

[mainer]

https://www.dmaxstore.com/gallery/viewGallery.php?gallId=22


that truck is running qa1'.... might be worth asking Mike (owner of truck & dmaxstore.com) how he likes them.

 

[McRat]

https://www.dmaxstore.com/gallery/viewGallery.php?gallId=22


that truck is running qa1'.... might be worth asking Mike (owner of truck & dmaxstore.com) how he likes them.

What kind of ET's and sixties is he running with them?

Sure is a purdy truck...

 

[TrentNell]

Both my truck and Chris's (DrHolliday) cut 1.66-1.68s almost every pass, on almost any tire, on almost any track.

We have done it on:
285 BFGs on PYOs
255 Tempra trail cutters on PYOs
275 Toyo Proxes on 16x8 racelines
265 Generic ATs on PYOs
305/50R20 Cooper XSTs on my 20s

He has completely stock suspension (shocks and all) with clamps on the front of the leaves.
I have SkyJacker Nitro 8000 shocks, traction bars, and 2" drop shackles on an otherwise stock suspension.

I've cut 1.59 on the cheater slicks.

Mike's 2WD CCSB cut a 1.9 with the cheater slicks on the rear on a stock suspension (no clamps).

Guys with cars all complain about traction at the tracks we race at but we always hook great.

I'm just wondering how guys have problems cutting 1.6 60's - doing all this trick stuff to suspensions and everything.

I start thinking I need to improve my 60s and have thought about the stiff rebound shocks, limit straps, some sort heavy duty "bungee strap", ect. but then I get on here and wonder if should change anything if it is working so well as is.

if it aint broke dont fix it .and we all know you can build three trucks identical and probably get different results from all 3, mine is broke so i am trying :rofl: shocks and a new locker is next up we will see what it worth . i also have some tunning that i have been playing with that looks promising also , and the shocks are not just to get better 60's i have always been hunting for a better suspension set up for the truck . always has felty reel mushy compared to other vehicles i have owned . this may be my first duramax but i have been building street trucks for 10 years . i have built a few canyon carvers out of pick ups before :cool2: i dont like to say :quote: it handles pretty good for a truck . it either handles good or it doesnt imop .

 

[TrentNell]

What kind of ET's and sixties is he running with them?

Sure is a purdy truck...

its usually the pretty trucks that are slow :rofl: ,all the money went to show instead of go it is a very nice looking truck .

 

[TrentNell]

and also i started with spring clamps / stock shocks and have worked my way to here . not all of my troubles are suspension but after AZ i know this is one of them .

 

[MMLMM]

traction bars
bilstiens shocks
285-55-20 on 20" heavy ass wheels

low 1.7s

I want to run some 265-285s on stock pyo's, i bet i could cut a 1.6 everytime....

 

[RENODMAX]

I think that you tried to fix something that wasnt broken with your rear suspension. Plenty of trucks run completely stock rear suspension, no clamps no nothing and cut 1.6's. Tire pressure and weight have a lot to do with it. Less pressure, stiffer rear end to keep the front end down and ditch the 20s you can hit 1.6's. I like your thinking outside the box but I think your rear suspension setup is limiting you bigtime.

 

[TrentNell]

I think that you tried to fix something that wasnt broken with your rear suspension. Plenty of trucks run completely stock rear suspension, no clamps no nothing and cut 1.6's. Tire pressure and weight have a lot to do with it. Less pressure, stiffer rear end to keep the front end down and ditch the 20s you can hit 1.6's. I like your thinking outside the box but I think your rear suspension setup is limiting you bigtime.

First thing i ran all last year with stock rear end with clamps and some chepo tuff country traction bars . i had probably 30+ runs on that setup . front end was still lifting and still toeing in a little bit average 60 ft 1.8* - 2.0* . a few things changed front shocks / rear suspension/ torque converter / twins you get the point . 60's are now 1.7*-1.8* even with the front end problem what ever is causing it times are better now then before . you may be right jordan but how when 2wd traction is the best it has ever been , i may have changed the dynamics a bit but if believe if i can keep the front end down i think she will do very well . and for everyone THIS IS WITH A BLOWN OUT LOCKER like litterally one wheel peel everytime, my times are not going to be there max potential i may very well be able to tag a 1.6* . i want 1.5-1.6's on 20's with street tread we will find out if its possible . and as stated before i am trying to build a multi purpose suspension wich includes being comfortable , cornering well , towing, and drag strip use . its going to take some different methods then what others are running . i apriciate all the info and scrutany as well i dont want nay sayers i want truthful opinions .

 

[malibu795]

cortisy of tom bacons hard work
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24_47_455&products_id=381

true trac for 575.00 measuer back lash new careire bearing and shims swap the ring set it back to back lash prior disassembly

 

[TrentNell]

cortisy of tom bacons hard work
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24_47_455&products_id=381

true trac for 575.00 measuer back lash new careire bearing and shims swap the ring set it back to back lash prior disassembly

it is in the plans i apriciate the link adam best price i have seen so far . trying to find a used one first . and for the record i am not blaiming the shocks for poor sixtie's just that they dont have enough valving for the front end for drag racing i still believe that 100% .

 

[Gasuout]

If your pulling consitant 1.6 's , I think you should leave it alone for the most part . There is also more to 60's than just the truck . The driver plays a roll in it too . Finding each trucks sweet spot on launch isnt always that easy .

I also think alignment is key . Thats the one thing that could be different on every truck out there . Perfect alignment would be pretty important for 4WD racing and launching .

Im pretty happy with mine 1.90's . Being 2 tenths off trucks that weigh 5000 lbs less makes me smile .

 

[Alligator]

I can cut a mid 1.7 light on 20's and no traction aiding devices. Stock shocks, 33" at's on 20's, and just lowered t-bars. Here's Mikes and my truck cutting 1.7 60' times. I looked at the front end lift and it might have been 2 or 3 inches and no toe in at all. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K97UR0n5vRQ

Maybe I'm just not seeing something in that video, but stock stuff works for me.

 

[malibu795]

it is in the plans i apriciate the link adam best price i have seen so far . trying to find a used one first . and for the record i am not blaiming the shocks for poor sixtie's just that they dont have enough valving for the front end for drag racing i still believe that 100% .

depending on how much $$ is left over form this repair on my truck.. i might have a true trac in the back

 

[TheBac]

yes i am running stock keys but i might be getting some lowere keys or control arms .


i think i see a pattern me you and hondarider have the same 60's and the same shocks maybe not but ? i pulled a couple 1.76's in AZ . i will try the qa1's but need to wait a couple weeks or so to save some coin . i think once set up you could have street settings , and setting for the strip and just switch the nobs back before you head home . i think there are cheaper options that would work but i am going for the gusto on this i wont stop till 1.6's are the norm and 1.5* on a very lucky day

True that, BUT you're also going to be putting out a heck of a lot more HP than I am...so your suspension is going to be working much harder to keep the truck "in line" at the start. IMO, you're going to have a lot more torque transfer acting on the suspension than I.

 

[03 D-max]

if you have the truck in 2wd and hold the breaks and give it a little throttle does the back lift up or squat?

just trying to get an idea of how your rear suspension reacts

 

[TrentNell]

if you have the truck in 2wd and hold the breaks and give it a little throttle does the back lift up or squat?

just trying to get an idea of how your rear suspension reacts

it rises several inches .

 

[03 D-max]

it rises several inches .

your rear defiantly isn't the prob then

i would say some QA1's are in your future

 

[Drholliday]

There is also more to 60's than just the truck . The driver plays a roll in it too . Finding each trucks sweet spot on launch isnt always that easy .

x2

If your not spinning at all I'd try to launch harder. When I launch with the stock suspension clamped in the rear and lowered in the front I like to leave the line at 2300 rpms. I never look at the boost gauge when I launch, just rpms. I did look at it once though and at 2300 rpms I'm at 28 psi of boost. Seems allot higher then what I've read about guys on here launching around 10-12 psi.