DIY twins/ build thread

mainer

New member
Nov 11, 2008
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Well I've been gathering parts for the last several months and I have spring break in 2 weeks so that will give me a chance to finally get around to getting the plumbing done.

Here is a pic of most of the parts, still a few things awaiting in the mail.

TWINPARTS.jpg


quick rundown on parts:

s475 1.32 a/r
30psi isspro for primary charger boost
60psi isspro for back pressure
60psi isspro for overall boost
triple pillar pod
3.5" piping between turbos vband at s475, silicone boot at IHI
4" downpipe
3" hotpiping
4" intake to s475
kn re0870 filter


as far as piping goes:
3" 1-90*'s , 2-45*'s
3.5" 2-45*'s
4" 2-90*'s , 2-45*'s

also utilizing a spare lb7 downpipe to help make the hotpipe


eventually i'm going to come up with a complete list of all the companies I source parts from but here is a quick list of the ones I can remember off the top of my head. I spent hours researching where to buy parts, and there is huge price differences in piping and flanges etc.

air flo systems
mad machining
Columbia river mandrel bending
jegs
ebay
pure diesel power
glowshift
isspro
metals depot
racer parts solutions

I will also come up with a total price list as I'm somewhat curious myself... I scored the turbo for $220 working a trade for a 12v short block I had kicking around.... I'm hoping all said and done to be right around $1000... $1500 if I end up adding a wastegate to the list.

I'll update this thread as I make progress or more parts come in but hoping to have it up and running by the end of the month.

Thanks goes out to:

Ben- Duratothemax
Dmaxvaz
Renodmax
Acoombs
Garrett- puredieselpower.com

and everyone else that has put up with my never ending questions along the way. Hopefully this thread will help others build twins in the future.
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
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Awesome man. Can't wait to see it :D let me know if I can help with anything
 

diamondshocks

crash skippy racing
Feb 15, 2009
115
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Fargo, NS
www.diamondshocks.com
i was kicking around doing this this summer but we'll see if i have the money. working on modding the IHI some first and then throw twins on. its not all the hard, jsut time consuming. dont forget about the oil lines your going to need for the larger charger and the fitting for them. id pick those up ASAP or your going to have a useless truck
 

mainer

New member
Nov 11, 2008
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its a t6 flange, my buddy that works at a machine shop made me one.

oil lines are in the mail.... from jegs

diamondshocks... i'm on hardcoresledder, i've got a prox 600 136" seen you on there a ton.
 

diamondshocks

crash skippy racing
Feb 15, 2009
115
0
0
Fargo, NS
www.diamondshocks.com
its a t6 flange, my buddy that works at a machine shop made me one.

oil lines are in the mail.... from jegs

diamondshocks... i'm on hardcoresledder, i've got a prox 600 136" seen you on there a ton.

yep im not there all the time, haha. this is my other love. if you ever want to get that prox tuned up let me know. i love that chassis, its still my fav. same name in HCS?
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
7,139
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Wyoming
that looks sweet foster, keep me updated on the progress.

I still need to finish up this stupid paper for school but Ill give you a call tonight.
 

mainer

New member
Nov 11, 2008
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got my battery tray mounted and the pass side battery moved. I used the gm part # for frame mount battery tray.

the cables DO , i repeat DO reach without lengthening them. The positive needs to be moved from behind the motor mount and come out off of the solenoid on the the starter. There is about 6" of slack in the positive and 1/2" of slack in the negative cable, tight fit but better than having to extend them.

got my triple pod mounted and moved my gauges into that.

also bought a core allison yesterday for $300.... now I can build that and swap it in and not have any downtime for building my tranny....


also some more parts came in:

oil lines
stainless zip ties
100ft of exhaust heat wrap
torque multiplier- to hopefully remove lb7 downpipe bolts
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
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got my battery tray mounted and the pass side battery moved. I used the gm part # for frame mount battery tray.

the cables DO , i repeat DO reach without lengthening them. The positive needs to be moved from behind the motor mount and come out off of the solenoid on the the starter. There is about 6" of slack in the positive and 1/2" of slack in the negative cable, tight fit but better than having to extend them.

got my triple pod mounted and moved my gauges into that.

also bought a core allison yesterday for $300.... now I can build that and swap it in and not have any downtime for building my tranny....


also some more parts came in:

oil lines
stainless zip ties
100ft of exhaust heat wrap
torque multiplier- to hopefully remove lb7 downpipe bolts
sounds good man take pictures. i tried to torque multiplier method for my downpipe bolts. didnt work at all for me
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
7,139
10
0
Wyoming
the cables DO , i repeat DO reach without lengthening them. The positive needs to be moved from behind the motor mount and come out off of the solenoid on the the starter. There is about 6" of slack in the positive and 1/2" of slack in the negative cable, tight fit but better than having to extend them.

ZOMG IMAGINE THAT!?!?? :D

ben
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
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Thailand
This is gonna be really nice info to have for the DIY to have

Thanks Alot:hug:
X2 Thanks

Couple questions is a 60psi back press going to be enough?
Isnt the inlet on your 475 a 5" and what made you decide the 1.32

I think the 1.32 might be good, Just wondered why you chose it.
 

mainer

New member
Nov 11, 2008
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inlet is 5" yes, i got a rubber 5" coupler hose then a 5" to 4" reducer.... tight on space and 4" air filters are a lot easier to fit and should flow more than enough

1.32 is the most common a/r for the s475 anything else you would be switching housings. its also an ideal size, any smaller and its too tight, larger and it would be laggy.
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
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jordan any tips on getting the downpipe bolts out??

PB blaster. Then i took a 12mm 12pt wrench that i didnt care about and put it on the bolt and pryed on it with a 5 foot long piece of pipe. Worked great
 

mainer

New member
Nov 11, 2008
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lol ok.... i'm just worried about snapping them off... ?? snapping these an issue?? havent heard of it yet
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
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Reeces up pipe bolts snapped. I suggest studding it with 10.9s while they're out.