cracked piston

1slomax

New member
Dec 6, 2011
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Harrisonburg VA
long story short have a 06 built engine from socal , cariilo rods, mahle cast pistons, socal stage 1 heads , socal 6460 cam standard fire order, arp 14mm studs , main studs , 60 over exergys, dual pumps gt4202r blah blah,truck cracked a piston and wanting to change things up but im not sure which way to go, truck is not a daily driver but i like to be able to hop in it and daily drive it if i would like doesnt tow at all its just a street driven truck that goes to the drag strip and plays out in town, ive deiced on fingers pistons not sure what compression to go with and im also wanting to switch to a AF cam not sure on that either, for fuel i have a stroker pump im going to add over top one of my stock pumps and one send my 60s to be made bigger but for now there staying 60s, air im either wanting to keep the 4202r and add a gt5541 over it or just go danville 72r/84 , was wanting everyones opinions on which route to go sorry for the long messy post
 

MarkBroviak

DMax Junkie
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May 25, 2008
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Danville Indiana
You need to decide how much power you honestly need and want and then you will have the answers to all of your questions. You also want to decide where in the rpm curve you want it to make it's power. If your going twins you might want to o-ring the block while it is apart for the rebuild.:thumb:
 

Harbin_22

Active member
Dec 4, 2010
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Southern Indiana
You need to decide how much power you honestly need and want and then you will have the answers to all of your questions. You also want to decide where in the rpm curve you want it to make it's power. If your going twins you might want to o-ring the block while it is apart for the rebuild.:thumb:

Wish I would have done this to begin with!
 

1slomax

New member
Dec 6, 2011
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Harrisonburg VA
You need to decide how much power you honestly need and want and then you will have the answers to all of your questions. You also want to decide where in the rpm curve you want it to make it's power. If your going twins you might want to o-ring the block while it is apart for the rebuild.:thumb:



Hey mark thanks for the reply, I may give you a call tomorrow and talk to you about a few things, im going to have you dyno tune it for sure , pretty much all I want is a badass street driven truck that I can go to the track with and run 10s easy in full street trim
 

Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
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Hagerstown MD
You need to decide how much power you honestly need and want and then you will have the answers to all of your questions. You also want to decide where in the rpm curve you want it to make it's power. If your going twins you might want to o-ring the block while it is apart for the rebuild.:thumb:
Just curious as i am putting a set of o ring heads on a 6.0 right now, why not o ring the heads?
 

MarkBroviak

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May 25, 2008
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You want to oring the block on Dmax because the heads are aluminum so you get a tighter squeeze on the gasket. If you oring the head then you are trying to squeeze the gasket into the cast iron block which doesn't work as well plus then the head isn't usually re-serviceable again. Also you will want to use the 625+ studs to verify that it stays sealed up tight from the extra pressure you are going to produce in the cylinder.
 

Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
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Hagerstown MD
You want to oring the block on Dmax because the heads are aluminum so you get a tighter squeeze on the gasket. If you oring the head then you are trying to squeeze the gasket into the cast iron block which doesn't work as well plus then the head isn't usually re-serviceable again. Also you will want to use the 625+ studs to verify that it stays sealed up tight from the extra pressure you are going to produce in the cylinder.
That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the information!
 

DPC

Member
Jan 2, 2012
323
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Adams, TN
You want to oring the block on Dmax because the heads are aluminum so you get a tighter squeeze on the gasket. If you oring the head then you are trying to squeeze the gasket into the cast iron block which doesn't work as well plus then the head isn't usually re-serviceable again. Also you will want to use the 625+ studs to verify that it stays sealed up tight from the extra pressure you are going to produce in the cylinder.

At what point do you want to o-ring a dmax? No many people talk about it and have not seen any write ups on it.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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At what point do you want to o-ring a dmax? No many people talk about it and have not seen any write ups on it.

That question will recieve a ton of mixed input...
Personally, I'd say anything that is gonna see more than 800whp or big boost numbers, like 60+psi on the low end

That being said, my target is 750+ and my build will be o-ringed...
JUST bcuz that's what I want, F-ers. Don't question Norwegian incompetence.
 

MarkBroviak

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May 25, 2008
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Danville Indiana
That question will recieve a ton of mixed input...
Personally, I'd say anything that is gonna see more than 800whp or big boost numbers, like 60+psi on the low end

That being said, my target is 750+ and my build will be o-ringed...
JUST bcuz that's what I want, F-ers. Don't question Norwegian incompetence.

Yes, this is where I general draw the line, twins and 800+hp seem to be where it needs to be done. If not you get a little pressure in the cooling system under a hard pull because the heads are moving around a little bit with the extra pressure in the cylinder.

Yes Adam, these guys are popping the Mahle Race cast pistons with the factory bowl configuration. Hearing it almost on the daily anymore.:(
 

CaptPhil

Active member
Sep 10, 2011
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Delaware
the block in white devil is o ringed, haven't had any pressure at all in the cooling system.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

Verlon at ATP

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Mar 19, 2015
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If you go with the alt fire cam which I recommend, I would put a new crankshaft in at the same time. They seem to work best together when new.

I am having my motor redone beginning of the year and it will be o-ringed and all of the mains will have dowel pins done.

For all out power and racing, your 42/55 combo is hard to beat. The Danville 72r with a s48x is an awesome combo for all around performance. Without pushing fueling to hard I was making 1000hp with a 72r/83. Going bigger, but keeping the 72r.
 

TROJAN366

Gold Rush
Jan 13, 2012
2,474
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MASS
I am running 16:1 cast ovals and have seen no downside to the lower compression ratio. After reading this thread I am wishing I O-Ringed the block and went with 625s but you live and learn haha