Couple Q's about the HTT

FMOS

Hard Up
Nov 19, 2008
352
0
0
Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
You use the BD install kit for it right? And I could be way wrong, but are any of the parts in that install kit useful? Most of the direction that I could find for the install of this thing said "use the supplied fitting and hose to connect from the factory oiling position to the top of the turbo"...

Well none of the supplied fittings fit the hole in the block where the factory banjo bolt goes. Also, even if they did, the stock location is a straight thread hole and all of the supplied fittings are pipe thread.

And the 90° elbow that is supposed to go into the top of the turbo doesn't thread in without removing the compressor and turbine housings... it makes it about 2 revolutions and then hits the turbine housing.

I had to go out and buy all new fittings and hose to plumb this thing up myself... kinda chokes me a bit after spending 3700 bons.

My most important question though, hopefully someone can answer... What kind of stainless does HTT use for their stainless turbine housings?
 

Idaho CTD

Junkie
May 28, 2008
179
0
0
Idaho
Who did you buy it from? If none of the fittings work I'd contact the vendor and/or HTT. The latest kits draw oil from the block by the oil filter and come with a plug for the factory turbo oil feed spot in the valley.
 

FMOS

Hard Up
Nov 19, 2008
352
0
0
Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
Hmm... that is very valuable information that I haven't heard yet.

Wouldn't the hose need to be pretty long to hook up way down there? I do believe I have a "plug" type fitting in the box... No idea whether the other fitting would fit the location down by the oil filter, but either way there isn't nearly enough hose to make it to the top of the turbo from down there.

Is there any issue with setting mine up to operate from the stock oiling location in the valley? If there isn't, I'll probably go that route.

Bought from Underground Diesel.
 
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Idaho CTD

Junkie
May 28, 2008
179
0
0
Idaho
The newer kits come with 2 oil feed lines that attach to a one way valve to prevent oil drain back. BD had some turbo failures in the beginning and chose to pull oil from the side of the block instead of the valley after the failures.

The plug for the valley is 12mm. The feed from the side of the block is 14mm.
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
15,123
14
38
47
Wentzville Mo
This might help you, Sounds like yor kit is missing parts.
 

Attachments

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Sep 10, 2008
1,072
0
36
Morehead City, North Carolina
You use the BD install kit for it right? And I could be way wrong, but are any of the parts in that install kit useful? Most of the direction that I could find for the install of this thing said "use the supplied fitting and hose to connect from the factory oiling position to the top of the turbo"...

Well none of the supplied fittings fit the hole in the block where the factory banjo bolt goes. Also, even if they did, the stock location is a straight thread hole and all of the supplied fittings are pipe thread.

And the 90° elbow that is supposed to go into the top of the turbo doesn't thread in without removing the compressor and turbine housings... it makes it about 2 revolutions and then hits the turbine housing.

I had to go out and buy all new fittings and hose to plumb this thing up myself... kinda chokes me a bit after spending 3700 bons.

My most important question though, hopefully someone can answer... What kind of stainless does HTT use for their stainless turbine housings?

I had the same issue. Just take out the piece it threads into, put it in a vice and thread it in! Only issue with that is you risk ruining the gasket. Might have to make another one, no big deal.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
Yup, screw the elbow in first, then bolt it in. If you coat gaskets with a light coat of grease before installing, often they will come off intact. But the top oil gasket is a universal gasket used on most medium to large turbochargers, so it can be found at Dodge/OTR truck dealers as well as internet. I usually just hit the Dodge dealer. Ditto for the drain gaskets, and T3 gaskets.
 

NWTDIESEL

On a Time Out
May 8, 2008
1,405
0
0
ATS Extreme trans
The kit came straight from HTT. It should have all the fittings and hose to run the supply line from down by the oil filter. The plug goes in the block under the turbo.

Let me know what you need and i can get it to you.

Call me if you need to 970-769-1679
 

FMOS

Hard Up
Nov 19, 2008
352
0
0
Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
The oil line from down by the filter makes sense. The fittings will work down there anyways. Still not sure about that 90° elbow on the oil inlet of the turbo... I thought that it screwed right into the center piece of the turbo. I actually first thought that there should be some sort of mating flange piece that bolts down there with two bolts because it is a machined surface obviously for a gasket. But then I noticed that the threaded hole was tapered pipe thread...

Anyways, thank you all for the support. I'm actually back at work for two weeks long ways away from the truck but I think my bro is working on it a bit and I relayed the info to him. I think it will all come together now.

Only thing he noticed when I talked to him just a few minutes ago is that the turbo doesn't seem like it sits flat down on the the three bolted mounting faces... is it required to use a spacer or can it bolt in the factory position with no spacer?

As for the size and stainless... I roughly measured the compressor at 2.6x... does that make sense? I didn't have a metric rule near me when I did it haha.

And... I requested the stainless housing, and thought I paid for it. but as I originally asked, what kind of stainless is used to create the turbine housing? Because on the turbo I received, the compressor housing is aluminum, and the turbine housing is steel. Now it appears to be carbon steel, and it is magnetic, but they might have used a ferretic stainless like a 400 series to make the housing so I dunno. Thats why I asked because 400 stainless is still magnetic. It would have slightly better high temp properties, but not like 300 or another high nickel/chrome would have.
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
7,543
0
0
44
slc tuah
The oil line from down by the filter makes sense. The fittings will work down there anyways. Still not sure about that 90° elbow on the oil inlet of the turbo... I thought that it screwed right into the center piece of the turbo. I actually first thought that there should be some sort of mating flange piece that bolts down there with two bolts because it is a machined surface obviously for a gasket. But then I noticed that the threaded hole was tapered pipe thread...

Anyways, thank you all for the support. I'm actually back at work for two weeks long ways away from the truck but I think my bro is working on it a bit and I relayed the info to him. I think it will all come together now.

Only thing he noticed when I talked to him just a few minutes ago is that the turbo doesn't seem like it sits flat down on the the three bolted mounting faces... is it required to use a spacer or can it bolt in the factory position with no spacer?

As for the size and stainless... I roughly measured the compressor at 2.6x... does that make sense? I didn't have a metric rule near me when I did it haha.

And... I requested the stainless housing, and thought I paid for it. but as I originally asked, what kind of stainless is used to create the turbine housing? Because on the turbo I received, the compressor housing is aluminum, and the turbine housing is steel. Now it appears to be carbon steel, and it is magnetic, but they might have used a ferretic stainless like a 400 series to make the housing so I dunno. Thats why I asked because 400 stainless is still magnetic. It would have slightly better high temp properties, but not like 300 or another high nickel/chrome would have.
there should be a threaded hole in the center of the cartridge housing on top of the turbo between the two housing , and under it is the drain wich is a machined surface with 2 studs sticking out that the spacer should go on with 2 suplied gaskets . here is a picture of were the oil inlet should go , mine looks a bit diff because of the other feed line for my twins but it should show you a idea of were its at . the line on the right of the "T" is coming from the hook up by the oil filter .


Picture009.jpg
 
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FMOS

Hard Up
Nov 19, 2008
352
0
0
Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
Yup.

So basically there are two machined surfaces on the cartridge. One on the top for the oil inlet and one on the bottom for the oil drain.

On the oil drain I threaded in the studs, put a gasket on, put the spacer on, then another gasket, then the drain tube.

On the top for the oil inlet, there is a machined surface, but no studs or bolts to use to mount anything there and nothing in the kit to mount there. Also, its tapered thread... so no gasket is required, a guy could just thread a pipe thread fitting in there and all will be well.

Do I got it right?

The issue I had, following the HTT turbo install instructions of the site here, was the supplied 90° fitting won't thread in because the turbo housing was in the way. But I can just use a short pipe thread to AN riser, 45° would probably work nice, and hook the hose up to that.

So I think I got it figured out now anyways. Sorry for being a pain with completely retarded questions haha! One other question though, where is the new oil feed location by the filter housing? I believe there is a big 10mm alan key nut, but that is way to big for the 14mm straight thread to AN fitting that is supposed to be used. I thought I recall there being a "square" headed plug like 1 inch from the filter mating surface on the filter housing... if there is, is that where the fitting and hose hook up?

Thanks again for all the support. This site is awesome. ...thanks to my bro for working on this thing while I'm 600km away too haha.
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
7,543
0
0
44
slc tuah
Yup.

So basically there are two machined surfaces on the cartridge. One on the top for the oil inlet and one on the bottom for the oil drain.

On the oil drain I threaded in the studs, put a gasket on, put the spacer on, then another gasket, then the drain tube.

On the top for the oil inlet, there is a machined surface, but no studs or bolts to use to mount anything there and nothing in the kit to mount there. Also, its tapered thread... so no gasket is required, a guy could just thread a pipe thread fitting in there and all will be well.

Do I got it right?yes you got it .... the 90 worked for me but you can use whatever you want put some locktite on the threads so it doesnt leak

The issue I had, following the HTT turbo install instructions of the site here, was the supplied 90° fitting won't thread in because the turbo housing was in the way. But I can just use a short pipe thread to AN riser, 45° would probably work nice, and hook the hose up to that.

So I think I got it figured out now anyways. Sorry for being a pain with completely retarded questions haha! One other question though, where is the new oil feed location by the filter housing? I believe there is a big 10mm alan key nut, but that is way to big for the 14mm straight thread to AN fitting that is supposed to be used. I thought I recall there being a "square" headed plug like 1 inch from the filter mating surface on the filter housing... if there is, is that where the fitting and hose hook up?
i can get you a pic but truck is not with me it would have to be tomarrow evening
Thanks again for all the support. This site is awesome. ...thanks to my bro for working on this thing while I'm 600km away too haha.
see red
 
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sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
0
0
52
Thailand
Yup.

So basically there are two machined surfaces on the cartridge. One on the top for the oil inlet and one on the bottom for the oil drain.

On the oil drain I threaded in the studs, put a gasket on, put the spacer on, then another gasket, then the drain tube. YES

On the top for the oil inlet, there is a machined surface, but no studs or bolts to use to mount anything there and nothing in the kit to mount there. Also, its tapered thread... so no gasket is required, a guy could just thread a pipe thread fitting in there and all will be well.

Do I got it right? YES

The issue I had, following the HTT turbo install instructions of the site here, was the supplied 90° fitting won't thread in because the turbo housing was in the way. But I can just use a short pipe thread to AN riser, 45° would probably work nice, and hook the hose up to that.
A straight npt to A/N and a 45* A/N MXF would be best then you can tighten and still have your 45 at what ever angle you want:)

So I think I got it figured out now anyways. Sorry for being a pain with completely retarded questions haha! One other question though, where is the new oil feed location by the filter housing? I believe there is a big 10mm alan key nut, but that is way to big for the 14mm straight thread to AN fitting that is supposed to be used. I thought I recall there being a "square" headed plug like 1 inch from the filter mating surface on the filter housing... if there is, is that where the fitting and hose hook up?


Thanks again for all the support. This site is awesome. ...thanks to my bro for working on this thing while I'm 600km away too haha.

you probably allready knew this:)