Coolant/PS fluid/brake fluid flush

[zakkb787]

Hey guys. Been reading up on advantages of doing PS and brake fluid flushes. Am I limited to only being able to go to a dealership to get this done? I know most of you are anywhere near close to my area but does anybody by chance know of a shop so I can get all this done at? My coolant is still sexy cool and it's starting to look muddy and I'd really like to get it all flushed and cleaned out and get new put in. And my power steering and brakes have been feeling a little different lately so I'd really like to get those flushed with New at it at 265,000 miles anyway. Thanks in advance.

 

[zakkb787]

Just called a shop that said they could do it BUT they don't have the machine. It'll be the old fashioned way. Said about $250 range including fluids. This good? Or is the machine that much better

 

[IOWA LLY]

I do all the above without a machine. If you know what your doing, and how to properly do it I see no reason why manually flushing the items you listed wouldn't be as good as with a machine. I think $250 sounds reasonable.

 

[bigfoot2222]

For the Powersteering fluid flush, you take the low pressure side off the hydro boost then run some hose into a catch can.

Turning the wheel and hitting the brakes will shoot the fluid out.

I can't remember where there is a how to written, here or DP, but it is pretty simple.

Curtis

 

[Dozerboy]

Didn’t you want to sell your truck? Man it easy to do it yourself, but $250 isn’t a bad price.


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[1TRIKHD]

For the Powersteering fluid flush, you take the low pressure side off the hydro boost then run some hose into a catch can.

Turning the wheel and hitting the brakes will shoot the fluid out.

I can't remember where there is a how to written, here or DP, but it is pretty simple.

Curtis

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/9081-how-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html

 

[wilrob]

^ I used that write up, took 30 minutes including installing my PS cooler

 

[zakkb787]

I did want to sell but I keep talking myself out of it. Either way I'd need to buy something to drive that's reliable and it's hard to do that for what I owe in this truck. So just gonna ride it out. Plus I'm attached. So I may do the power steering myself. What about brakes tho?

Thank you guys for all the replies. Helps a ton!! The price isn't bad. He said $59 an hour and about 3 hours plus fluids. Also gonna have my AC system flushed for my new compressor kit and an alignment maybe. Really want to do new UCA and Lower ball joints and shocks first tho. It's not wearing the tires unevenly but I've adjusted it so much it worries me.

 

[torqued2dmax]

Thats why its called Power steering and Hydro boost flush ! It dose both in 15 min , then if you have not bled the brake lines lately its another 15 min , unless the bleeders are frozen in rust , then let the fun begin !

 

[J_Stone06]

I did want to sell but I keep talking myself out of it. Either way I'd need to buy something to drive that's reliable and it's hard to do that for what I owe in this truck. So just gonna ride it out. Plus I'm attached. So I may do the power steering myself. What about brakes tho?

Thank you guys for all the replies. Helps a ton!! The price isn't bad. He said $59 an hour and about 3 hours plus fluids. Also gonna have my AC system flushed for my new compressor kit and an alignment maybe. Really want to do new UCA and Lower ball joints and shocks first tho. It's not wearing the tires unevenly but I've adjusted it so much it worries me.

My kryptonite UCA/front end kit has been pretty reliable. I can't really complain too much. My endlinks and tierods were shot at about 75k miles on the truck. Some of the factory stuff is straight crap...

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[zakkb787]

My kryptonite UCA/front end kit has been pretty reliable. I can't really complain too much. My endlinks and tierods were shot at about 75k miles on the truck. Some of the factory stuff is straight crap...

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I've got xd tie rods already and I don't think the kryptonite stuff would work well for my setup really. I'm lowered not lifted. And their UCA are more for leveled trucks from what I've seen.

 

[J_Stone06]

I've got xd tie rods already and I don't think the kryptonite stuff would work well for my setup really. I'm lowered not lifted. And their UCA are more for leveled trucks from what I've seen.

Yeah, that's true. Centerlink is pretty massive too. To each their own I suppose.

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[Chevy1925]

I've got xd tie rods already and I don't think the kryptonite stuff would work well for my setup really. I'm lowered not lifted. And their UCA are more for leveled trucks from what I've seen.

If the parts show no wear/give, you’re just throwing money out the door. Better off inspecting it first

 

[zakkb787]

If the parts show no wear/give, you’re just throwing money out the door. Better off inspecting it first

That's the goal. Already had one ball joint go and it was BAD if you remember. Just don't want to get it all lined up and have another go bad and throw it out of whack. Plus pretty sure they're the factory style. So no retaining clip. But good advice as always! Thanks James!

 

[Chevy1925]

That's the goal. Already had one ball joint go and it was BAD if you remember. Just don't want to get it all lined up and have another go bad and throw it out of whack. Plus pretty sure they're the factory style. So no retaining clip. But good advice as always! Thanks James!

No prob. Just check the front end over every oil change. I do that on mine all the time. Helps keep everything in check and see what is starting to go. Then there are no surprises. I don’t believe in the “if one side is bad, so is the other so I’ll replace both” theory. Sometimes that’s right and sometimes it ain’t the case. I’ve seen ball joints outlast the opposite side by 100k or a wheel bearing go another 50k over the previous side. My own truck has shown it too. I just realize my idler arm almost has 100k on it! Pitman was replaced about 30-40k ago.

 

[AZlml]

You'll be glad you flushed brakes and PS. Did mine at 100k and it was a noticeable difference. Buy the big bottle of brake fluid and suck out what's in the reservoir and fill it up. If you don't have a way to bleed them with suction through the bleeder just grab a person to pump them and bleed them like normal. Start at the farthest wheel from the reservoir. I had my rotors turned and scuffed up my pads and it feels like brand new brakes.

 

[Novak]

I've got xd tie rods already and I don't think the kryptonite stuff would work well for my setup really. I'm lowered not lifted. And their UCA are more for leveled trucks from what I've seen.

Kyrptonite is built for all set ups lifted or lowered a AS LONG AS your "centerlink is in the stock position"
I ran mine on my 6" lift and then now factory height with the bars turned down.

 

[Novak]

No prob. Just check the front end over every oil change. I do that on mine all the time. Helps keep everything in check and see what is starting to go. Then there are no surprises. I don’t believe in the “if one side is bad, so is the other so I’ll replace both” theory. Sometimes that’s right and sometimes it ain’t the case. I’ve seen ball joints outlast the opposite side by 100k or a wheel bearing go another 50k over the previous side. My own truck has shown it too. I just realize my idler arm almost has 100k on it! Pitman was replaced about 30-40k ago.

Kinda like dual batteries. One battery just lets the cold holiday season get the best of them

 

[Novak]

$250 isn't bad
Like my Dad said, when you pay people to do stuff you can do yourself it isn't just how much is your project worth to you but it's also how much is your time worth to you.


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[zakkb787]

No prob. Just check the front end over every oil change. I do that on mine all the time. Helps keep everything in check and see what is starting to go. Then there are no surprises. I don’t believe in the “if one side is bad, so is the other so I’ll replace both” theory. Sometimes that’s right and sometimes it ain’t the case. I’ve seen ball joints outlast the opposite side by 100k or a wheel bearing go another 50k over the previous side. My own truck has shown it too. I just realize my idler arm almost has 100k on it! Pitman was replaced about 30-40k ago.

I completely agree with you in that. That only reason I'm considering doing them all is because the mileage and I don't know the history of the truck before 248k. Plus when I got the truck the torsion bars were maxed out. And I've had it raised and lowered so many times I'm sure I haven't helped lol.