COCOAL's build/brag/progress thread...:)

[Hot COCOAL]

Seems legit
I'll just send them everything
I'll turn wrenches, but there's no way I'm balancing anything...I can hardly balance my checkbook
:rofl:

 

[56taskforce]

COCOAL really not that big of a deal everything you need can be had from Summit Racing. The fixture for the rods can easily be built.
BTW I never had a problem balancing my check book before duramax lol:rofl:

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Used engine is gone!


Now to order the parts I should've in the beginning...






Oh, and I promised to come clean about the seller when everything was said and done, and while he honored his word and got the engine and whatnot, I wouldn't recommend anyone to buy an engine from him. Nice enough guy, but it turns out he's a middle man, and really just an old skool hardcore "salesman"

Guys name is Dan Harvey, harveymotorworks Salem Oregon.
Shit, while I'm inking about it, I'd better to cash the checks he gave me...

 

[OregonDMAX]

Good to know actually, so thanks!

that's how far I might have to travel to get another motor as well

 

[JoshH]

They balance the rotating assembly and send the crank, rods and pistons all together or balance it and disassemble?

IIRC, They balance it on a separate machine and have to disassemble it to install the parts anyways, I'd imagine they'd leave the pistons and rods connected tho

Interesting note
I was told they can balance the rotating assembly if you sent them just one piston? Which seems weird but that's what I was told.

Rods and pistons are not put together or bolted to the crank to balance anything. Like was previously posted, rods and pistons are weighed and evened out so bob weights can be put together and bolted to the rod journals.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Rods and pistons are not put together or bolted to the crank to balance anything. Like was previously posted, rods and pistons are weighed and evened out so bob weights can be put together and bolted to the rod journals.

Huh, I didn't know that


Thanks for the info Josh
:thumb:

But where/what do they balance then?
I thought sometimes they took off material from the pistons, or is it just the crank they add or remove material from?

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Finally....
:rofl:

I'll take the drivers side head off tonight to check out the piston and bore, it's the #8...
The manifold is soaked with oil in the #8 runner

Weight reduction!
:roflmao:

 

[JoshH]

Huh, I didn't know that


Thanks for the info Josh
:thumb:

But where/what do they balance then?
I thought sometimes they took off material from the pistons, or is it just the crank they add or remove material from?

The way it should be done is the small end and large end of the rods are weighed. They find the lightest of each and make the rest match (usually at least within 1 gram). Then they weigh the pistons and make them all match within 1 gram. Then they use the weights they got from that to assemble bob weights. Once they bolt those to the crank, they spin it on a balancing machine and it tells them where and how much weight to add or remove to make it all balanced.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

The way it should be done is the small end and large end of the rods are weighed. They find the lightest of each and make the rest match (usually at least within 1 gram). Then they weigh the pistons and make them all match within 1 gram. Then they use the weights they got from that to assemble bob weights. Once they bolt those to the crank, they spin it on a balancing machine and it tells them where and how much weight to add or remove to make it all balanced.

Ahhh, now I understand...lol
Got it, that sounds pretty damn effective!
Thanks for explaining it Josh
:hug:

 

[Hot COCOAL]

OK guys...
Got my new LBZ long block from GM yesterday afternoon!!!!
Yes, after all my talk I wound up with a another stock engine, buying a house trumps my built engine dreams...
Now I have a few questions, don't beat me up too bad over them

1) after hearing about so many guys running 40+psi on stock head bolts, do y'all think that I should go to the trouble of placing my ARP studs in the block of the new engine???

I took the upper and lower valve covers off and coated them with engine enamel to purdy it up a bit, and I'm looking at the rocker arms with the valve lash set all perfect and the new head bolts most likely torqued to perfection, and I'm wondering...is it really worth it?

2) for a stock engine street truck turning 3,600rpm, do you guys think a pinned H20 pump is necessary? I know it's a better piece of hardware, but is it needed for a set up like mine?

3) what about poly engine mounts like MA, Danville, ATP and the like sell??? Again, is it something that's really gonna benifit "my" truck, or just a cool piece of hardware?

More than likely I'll be getting Danville's 3794va turbo, a sportsman CP3 (maybe a 10mm CP3) I'll be running my Exergy 60's and I'm hoping to have it tuned for a de-torqued 550-600whp...

So what do you guys think, should I spend the coin on the "cool stuff" or (what I'm starting to think) should I just run it "as is" with the factory head bolts, new GM H20 and my 150k mi engine mounts that seem to be in good shape???

 

[LbzDMax07]

Here is my opinion... I would do the Studs and water pump now since its easier to do. The mounts wouldnt be a bad idea but that would depend on budget. I think that turbo will be good also but Id run a stock Cp3 or more than likley another motor will be in your future. It seems like these LBZ motors last a little longer without excess fuel

 

[56taskforce]

The way it should be done is the small end and large end of the rods are weighed. They find the lightest of each and make the rest match (usually at least within 1 gram). Then they weigh the pistons and make them all match within 1 gram. Then they use the weights they got from that to assemble bob weights. Once they bolt those to the crank, they spin it on a balancing machine and it tells them where and how much weight to add or remove to make it all balanced.

That is what I tried to convey earlier. The matching of piston and rod assembly weight is static balance this info is then used to make up the Bob weights to dynamic balance the crank.
The static balance is the part that is an easy diy.

 

[56taskforce]

OK guys...
Got my new LBZ long block from GM yesterday afternoon!!!!
Yes, after all my talk I wound up with a another stock engine, buying a house trumps my built engine dreams...
Now I have a few questions, don't beat me up too bad over them

1) after hearing about so many guys running 40+psi on stock head bolts, do y'all think that I should go to the trouble of placing my ARP studs in the block of the new engine???

I took the upper and lower valve covers off and coated them with engine enamel to purdy it up a bit, and I'm looking at the rocker arms with the valve lash set all perfect and the new head bolts most likely torqued to perfection, and I'm wondering...is it really worth it?

2) for a stock engine street truck turning 3,600rpm, do you guys think a pinned H20 pump is necessary? I know it's a better piece of hardware, but is it needed for a set up like mine?

3) what about poly engine mounts like MA, Danville, ATP and the like sell??? Again, is it something that's really gonna benifit "my" truck, or just a cool piece of hardware?

More than likely I'll be getting Danville's 3794va turbo, a sportsman CP3 (maybe a 10mm CP3) I'll be running my Exergy 60's and I'm hoping to have it tuned for a de-torqued 550-600whp...

So what do you guys think, should I spend the coin on the "cool stuff" or (what I'm starting to think) should I just run it "as is" with the factory head bolts, new GM H20 and my 150k mi engine mounts that seem to be in good shape???

I am new to the diesel performance thing as you know but I would do studs if you plan is to run your 60%s and more turbo is a given.
Everything in a performance build is a balance . Instead of looking for that one magical part go with whole system plan that fits the budget and power level you seek.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Thanks for the replys guys!

Well, I think everyone knows for one reason or another, this engine will be out sooner than later. Really all I need out of it is to make it long enough to stockpile rods, pistons, AF cam, billet goodies etc etc. I don't know if it's better to get a few of the little things now, cuz I "can" kinda force it to happen, or just wait till it's go time on a full build...

Sure I've got the studs, but they're in the blown engine and the dealership wants the core as complete as the engine I received, so I'd then have to put two engines back together. I know, cry me a river, right...lol

Granted I wouldn't have to precisely assemble the core return, but it's still gonna be a PITA. Also, if I used the studs now, then for the time I put a build together they'd have 3 torques on them and that's getting close to being done for the studs and I'm not so sure I'd be comfortable using them at that point on a 800hp build...
I hate to loose the cash I spent on them tho...but I'm hating the idea of all the extra work right now too, just to use them on an engine that doesn't "really" need it...

The H2O pump, I'm kinda thinking I want to be new for the intended future build, the pump on the new engine I just got is new, so again, I'm feeling like I don't need the pinned pump right now, same for the engine mounts, the current ones are fine.

The CP3 is a different story...there's 150k mi on the one I've got, it was holding rail just fine before, but knowing my luck, it won't for much longer and I'm guessing it'd fail before I get to build the engine I want to. So I do feel like that's a necessity, the pump I'd be willing to go bigger on cuz I'd feel fine using a 20k pump on my future build, I like the simplicity of running a single pump so getting a stroker pump like a 10mm or even a 12mm is appealing, but I could just run dual stock pumps and put the new one in the valley, upgrade to duals later and just be happy with that (ARUGH, decisions!)
Regardless, I'll be getting a new CP3. I figured the sportsman pump would be a good compromise, it's the most cost effective and would have some benefits over running a GM pump.

Bottom line right now, I'm just trying to do it right for what I've got goin on. I'm willing to spend more on getting it back together, but if I don't have to I'd rather get by on the cheap. The turbo and CP3 is gonna be about 3k, I've got a few little odds and ends to attain, like a damper (cuz the long block didn't come with one and I'm not using the 150k mi stocker) and for the love of diesel, I've just gotta get this pig running again!!! It's been too long and I don't need to push it out any farther for the reason of buying performance parts for it that it doesn't need...

Shit, I guess I should use those ARP's just cuz...damn it, I was trying to be lazy

 

[Hot COCOAL]

I didn't crack the piston afterall...

Blew a hole in it instead

Clean through the top and out the side...

And you can see the one of the rings too, forget what that ones called (it's the spiral wound one)

The bore is pretty badly damaged as well...

And, since I was determined to see the damage on the number 8 piston, I figured what the hell and am going to use the studs on the new engine...

 

[mike diesel]

Why are you wanting to spin 3600 rpm on a stock engine with a small vvt charger? Your going to choke it up, horsepower falls off quick after 3200 rpm. Even with my s472 charger I saw faster track times shifting at stock shift points (3200 rpm) than I didn't when I had it shifting at 3700 rpm.

Definitely pull the arps off the old engine, throw the head bolts from the new engine into the old engine and send it on its way.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Why are you wanting to spin 3600 rpm on a stock engine with a small vvt charger? Your going to choke it up, horsepower falls off quick after 3200 rpm. Even with my s472 charger I saw faster track times shifting at stock shift points (3200 rpm) than I didn't when I had it shifting at 3700 rpm.

Oops!
I kinda forgot about the charger choking out at higher RPM's, that's good info, thanks Mike
:hug:
It's been so long since I drove the truck, I honestly don't remember what the rev limit is set at, I think with the tuning I've been running it's 3450rpm...?

3600rpm was just a guesstimate number for pump failure to occur, from what I've read the water pump impeller starts to become an issue around that point, it's definitely an issue for the sled pullers turning 4k, but I was just curious if it's really a necessity for a stock engine street truck...or if a guy shouldn't worry about it unless he's running up in the 3600rpm range

Definitely pull the arps off the old engine, throw the head bolts from the new engine into the old engine and send it on its way.

Yup, that's the plan!


I was just being a lazy ass
:rofl:

The new plan/goal is gettin a Danville stg2 3794va, the engine mounts, pinned H2O pump, sportsman CP3 and since this new/reman engine didn't come with one I'll be getting the SoCal/ATI super dampener or the PPE branded one (probably the PPE, cuz I like the all black )

So the new engine will be set up pretty legit (for a "stock engine"), I'll just be happy to have it run again. And I know I would've been kickin myself in the ass, daily, if I didn't upgrade everything I could when I had the chance so I'm pretty content getting the "goodies"

 

[Cknight199]

FYI I ran my motor to 4600 rpm a few times to try to see where my rev limiter was set. Well never was able to find the limiter but figured 4600 is more than enough rpm's. And I never had to replace my water pump.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Goin in tonight!!!

Just need the turbo...
Now I'm gonna make the custom fuel lines, when the parts get here anyways...


As she sits;
GM Re-man LBZ
Exergy 60's
New stock CP3 (dual fuelers in the future)
DP pinned H2O
DHD 3" Y-bridge
BD intercooler
Banks RamAir
PPE mani/uppie's
PPE Centrifuge
SoCal Super Damper
All new pulleys
SoCal billet flexplate
SDP EGR delete/3" cold side
HSP hot side
DE 3" downpipe
Bolted drivers side engine mount
Built Transmission
SeaTrab trans cooler
5/8" trans cooler lines
4.10's, TruTrac, 35's, Cognito 4" NTBD Lift
SSBC big bite rotors, EBC yellow pads
CalTracs
BT L/U box
Mishimoto hoses and thermostats

Some other stuff...More on the way and more to follow

 

[chevyburnout1]

Looking damn good Coco!