Chevy1925 (James) Truck/motor build

slowlml

slowlml

Undercover Epa agent
Feb 6, 2015
577
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Strasburg Va/Wardensville Wv
Chevy1925 said:
Ok, now I can finally head to the machine shop :D

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I didnt think we were allowed to post porn?:D Cant wait to see it all come together james. Hopefully this is the last time you have to tear it down. That oil cooler is beefy as hell too compared to the stock lb7
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Just ordered the rest of the little piddily shit i need to get the old girl back together. machine shop should have her ready soonest, next week. latest, before the 4th. im off the 4th and 5th so ill be diving head first into getting her done.

i keep hoping the 2020 oil coolers will be available before i start assembly but its not looking like it. called around quite a bit looking for one and the elbow. Got nothing... anyone wanna talk banks into sending me one they have? :rofl:

I then called CenPeCo and started discussing oil for the truck. I knew it was good stuff from prior posts on here but the DHD deal pretty much sealed me on running it strictly in the truck for the punishment it sees. We discussed the 15w40 s-3 and the 20w50 racing oil. it seems they dont alot of data from diesel trucks out here in the heat running either oil and high high temps besides racing and even then, its not consecutively ran over and over like i would be doing as most guys change the oil after a race weekend. ive opened up clearances a bit in the mains and rods (running .0025-.0028 is what i want the machine shop to spec the hone's to), we will verify cam clearance once i hear back this week. But anyhow, based on the 260-270* temp i said i can have the oil peak at for a few min on each hill over a 2-3 hour drive and running a consistant 230* temp, the 20w50 looked to be the better choice even with the higher volume oil pump. They are just unsure of how it will last. Still carries plenty of dispursents for the soot id make and high amounts of zinc but the antiware properties are way higher than the s-3. Ill just have to watch winter start ups and let a little heat build into her before taking off (something ive always done anyhow on the old girl and az doesnt have "winters" like most places. i dont even have glow plugs lmao) and ill be running quite a few analysis's on the oil, then talking with them to see how they feel the oil is fairing. ill hold off till after the first break in oil change before we do that. So ive got 6 gallons of 20w50 racing oil on its way to run.
 
Dozerboy

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,916
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TX of course
James make a new post with your UOAs when you do them, so I can fine them outside of this novel. I think it’s time for me to find a new oil, and what happened to Tony’s truck got my attention as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Will do! ill put my discussion with them each time as well. honestly i might just do an oil sample under break in too, just to see if im getting a reduction in metal by the second oil change and what not.
 
JoshH

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
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Texas!!!
I don't think I would run their racing oil in a vehicle that is mainly street driven.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Spent the day getting things ready, cleaned up and replacing some steering parts.

Steering box was leaking out of the steering shaft and starting to weep out the sector shaft. It’s still a very tight box so I wasn’t about to play “steering box Russian roulette” with napa (it’s lifetime warranty from 10 years ago). Bought a seal kit and dug in. All in all, really wasn’t all that bad. Changed the seals and slammed it back together.

Cleaned up the pitman arm as well and once back in the truck, figured I’d clean the steering lines, center link and tie rods. Hasn’t been cleaned in a loooooong time

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I’ll roll it out before the engine goes in to wash the firewall and degrease the front diff.

My idler arm support was finally showing some wear over the last year or so, so with the engine out, it would be a good time to replace it. Replaced the idler arm as well. It had just a little slip back and forth. For 100k miles and 10 years of work on both parts, I’m not going to bitch one bit! Napa warranty again for the win. Walked in with my receipts from 09 and walked out 10 min later with new parts for nothin.

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And then to finish the day off, I pulled the batmowheel off the ihi to put the stock wheel back on. Also pulled the drain tube, cleaned it and put new gaskets on since it was weeping.

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Just waiting on the engine now. Should have it back before the 4th so I can assemble then.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
Russel (yellow chevy) did a bunch of testing on the wheels and in his ported/polished turbos, the batmohweel didn’t perform the best. The stock wheel actually did better there as far as spool up and better performance under the power curve. Peak numbers, the batmo was a few hp better but not worth the loss in the rpm before it. All his testing was done prior to us trying the ported/polish and batmowheel. I’ve been too lazy to swap them back out.

In a 100% stock turbo, it’s for sure better than the stock wheel.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
Chevy1925 said:
95% sure it’s a cracked head in the exhaust valve. I also bent a push rod on the exhaust side on the cyl that was filling with water. Nnniiiccceee, pick up another from my buddy tomorrow.



Pulled the springs off the pass head and popped the valves out of cyl 6 (the leaky cyl). Exhaust port right at the valve closest to the exhaust manifold has a nice split in there. Cyl 4 and 8 are just starting to do the same in the same spot. Cyl 2 looks good

Cyl 2, looks good
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Cyl 6. Look at the horizontal crack by the guide. Gunna need to zoom in if your on your phone. I’m 95% sure that’s the culprit
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Cyl 4, you can see it just starting to split in the edge off to the left of the guide
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So just heard back from the machine shop. Those cracks ive posted earlier on (in quoted message) are indeed big time leakers. In fact, i was told both heads leak and every exhaust port has bubbles popping out from this area :roflmao:. God damn im hard on shit. Honestly, its probably just defective heads and having 150ft lbs of pressure on them plus 240-250* coolant temps for minutes at a time doesnt help. BUT the LML headgaskets held up over LLY heads :rofl:


In other news, all machine work is done and ready for pickup. Going to hopefully grab it all monday or tuesday next week so i can assemble over the 4th. :woott::woott:
 
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Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
no, i bought a set of rebuilt LBZ heads already before this whole engine build anticipating cracked head/s. The LBZ heads were being torqued on when the block blew out and started me down this avalanche of a build :roflmao:

Any time i can be Albert! :rofl:
 
hondarider552

hondarider552

Getting faster
May 28, 2008
10,627
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Arizona
Ah! Gotcha ok right on.


You know it's a small world when I walked into Larry's yesterday and he asked if I ever saw a Billet Callie's crank for a duramax... I said no, he showed me and then I asked if it was yours. His look was Priceless... Like I stole the fire out of him :rofl::roflmao:
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
hondarider552 said:
Ah! Gotcha ok right on.


You know it's a small world when I walked into Larry's yesterday and he asked if I ever saw a Billet Callie's crank for a duramax... I said no, he showed me and then I asked if it was yours. His look was Priceless... Like I stole the fire out of him :rofl::roflmao:
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:rofl::rofl: he was pretty excited to play with it :D. i threw him alot of curve balls with what i brought down to him. told him i was spicing up his day to day work :D
 
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