center link braces

[Rhall]

No but close. if you want the best of both worlds, the kryptonite stuff from dmaxstore is your best bet. EXAXT use to sell their stuff down here but its been rumored thats no more (its what i run). straight centerlink with no turing radius loss or bumpsteer. not to metion it will hold up to high power levels well. I dont like to promote other vendors that are not supporting this site but dmaxstore has the best setup right now......

Not that i care, cause im a full time puller, but i dont see it being possible to have a straight centerlink and not lose turning radius. Thats just basic geometry. Straight is straight.

Ive been running super diesels centerlink for 5 years and it will hold up to any power you can throw at it.

 

[Chevy1925]

Not that i care, cause im a full time puller, but i dont see it being possible to have a straight centerlink and not lose turning radius. Thats just basic geometry. Straight is straight.

Ive been running super diesels centerlink for 5 years and it will hold up to any power you can throw at it.

rob, your thinking about it too literally. you have a stragith centerlink but the tie rod attachment points do not have to be at the very end and thread in like the factory style. if you use an outer tie rod style as the inner tie rod, you can mount it to the inside of the centerlink, thus setting the whole tie rod setup back some making them more parallel with the centerlink and giving close to factory steering axis inclination. while you have put the "leverage" back onto the centerlink to try to make it twist, it has been greatly reduced by up to 75% due to the lenght of the ball shaft that is connected from the inner tie rod to the centerlink vs the 3-4" long 2 90* bends the stock centerlink has. trust me, ive been round and round on these steering systems in our trucks trying different stuff, looking at what is causing what, what is bending/flexing next, what is or isnt doing its job, and what can fix it. i probably have enough cash in my front end to buy a fully built straight axle kit jsut from the parts ive tried/built/bent/broke/and so on but back then, it was either cognito supports and fabtech tie rods or a straight centerlink that the factory inner tie rods screwed into. neither of which were what i wanted. Now im damn near golden . I know you have been around the bend many a time too so dont take this the wrong way

 

[PAT]

Awesome. Getting one tomorrow then haha

 

[arneson]

What's the super steer set up? And what would be a smarter set up to run. I dd but I am in the process of movin way up in power and want something to hold what I throw at it.

 

[ripmf666]

I'm with Rob ill stick with what works. I had Michael look at the one from dmax store. He said they added in a extra 2 shear points. Yes your gains the turn but without the factory leg in the center link that extra joint they added is taking all the stress when doing full turn so its in turn trying to force the knuckle out of the socket. I have never had a issue running a straight link sleeves and braces. I drive my truck on the back road city and hwy she's at 82,322 right now and has only had 2 wheel bearings. 1 at 30k just before I cracked a piston then another around 70k from the crappy roads in IL's on I70. I have done alittle sled pulling with it but a lot more racing at the track and on the street.

 

[RPM Motorsports]

Hmmm, never ran anything other then home brewed tie rod sleeves drag or sled! I run 14" wide boggers and drag radials, and all is good in the front. No hop twist skip ect... Never busted anything other then two CV's to date. Anybody ever compare the Dmaxstore parts with Rareparts

 

[MadMaxx61]

super diesels centerlink and sleeves here and it is not what is limiting my turning my tires rub on my swaybar so even stock centerlink I would turn the same.

 

[blk smoke lb7]

Good info. So would you recommend this for a guy that does a lot of daily driving and drags/pulls on the weekends? I hear about the Cognito stuff wearing out quite a bit.

Thanks!

Nick

Thats what ive seen alot on here also

 

[DMAXDOC]

How much turning radius will I lose?? I have my heart set on straight centerlink

 

[Tony Burkhard]

Guys I have been running my brace for Six years, the same six i have been up front and never once in my life have i broke or bent any of my steering parts in the original Dirty Hooker and in the DH 2.0. I tend to think i have less toe-in than the Goats do when pulling. Maybe im not making enough power to cause toe-in.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMvKS4eXx0s

 

[red1977]

lol I think you have the power.

 

[Chevy1925]

I'm with Rob ill stick with what works. I had Michael look at the one from dmax store. He said they added in a extra 2 shear points. Yes your gains the turn but without the factory leg in the center link that extra joint they added is taking all the stress when doing full turn so its in turn trying to force the knuckle out of the socket. I have never had a issue running a straight link sleeves and braces. I drive my truck on the back road city and hwy she's at 82,322 right now and has only had 2 wheel bearings. 1 at 30k just before I cracked a piston then another around 70k from the crappy roads in IL's on I70. I have done alittle sled pulling with it but a lot more racing at the track and on the street.

Well if that were the weak link, max'd out, kens white out, and my truck would have broke it. I know what your saying and dont disagree. a double sheered heim setup would be the "ideal" strenght if you were that concerned about it but then you have longevity issues. And turning actually doesnt try to force the ball out of the cup, its actually forcing it into it due to the nature of the ball trying to find center as its forced up against the walls of the cup. there is no direct force trying to pull the tie rod directly perpendicular for the centerlink and cause a ball/cup separation. i ran two defective inner tie rods that never broke because of that. in 4wd it works the same as well. Personally, the damxstore stuff can be improved via the idler/pitman arm supports. the cognito stuff is the next weak link on their kit. put some 1/2" billet steel braces on and your next weak link is the factory idler support. brace that and put a bigger setup in and you have moved the next weak point to the frame/steering box but by then, you need the frame stiffener by the diff, your making big hp, or your basically rock crawling on some grippy surfaces.

 

[ripmf666]

Well if that were the weak link, max'd out, kens white out, and my truck would have broke it. I know what your saying and dont disagree. a double sheered heim setup would be the "ideal" strenght if you were that concerned about it but then you have longevity issues. And turning actually doesnt try to force the ball out of the cup, its actually forcing it into it due to the nature of the ball trying to find center as its forced up against the walls of the cup. there is no direct force trying to pull the tie rod directly perpendicular for the centerlink and cause a ball/cup separation. i ran two defective inner tie rods that never broke because of that. in 4wd it works the same as well. Personally, the damxstore stuff can be improved via the idler/pitman arm supports. the cognito stuff is the next weak link on their kit. put some 1/2" billet steel braces on and your next weak link is the factory idler support. brace that and put a bigger setup in and you have moved the next weak point to the frame/steering box but by then, you need the frame stiffener by the diff, your making big hp, or your basically rock crawling on some grippy surfaces.

I sure wish Michael aka Superdiesel would get on here. It sound a lot better the way he point out the weak points.

My point is tried and true the straight link works and Tongs brace works. What I like about both is if your out and about and you lost a inner or outer tie rod almost ever part store has them cheap. Just install your sleeves and back on the road again. What does a set of the tie rods run if you need only one from the dmax store or can it be found local were your not left out on a trip.

 

[Chevy1925]

I sure wish Michael aka Superdiesel would get on here. It sound a lot better the way he point out the weak points.

My point is tried and true the straight link works and Tongs brace works. What I like about both is if your out and about and you lost a inner or outer tie rod almost ever part store has them cheap. Just install your sleeves and back on the road again. What does a set of the tie rods run if you need only one from the dmax store or can it be found local were your not left out on a trip.

I dont prefer dmaxstores stuff as i run the exaxt but since its the closest to it and ive seen some high hp truck and a few off road guys beat on it without issues, i suggest it. Where the dmaxstore stuff has its downfalls, the exaxt kit improves on it. Thats why i wish exaxt was still selling down here. all wear parts could be picked up at any auto parts shop with an exaxt kit. We can go round and round henry but you know my points and i know your points, we just each prefer a different setup over the other. To me, mine is tried and trued as well but i dont disagree with what you have pointed out, i aint makin money off it so why should i care? no hard feelings :hug:

 

[ripmf666]

I dont prefer dmaxstores stuff as i run the exaxt but since its the closest to it and ive seen some high hp truck and a few off road guys beat on it without issues, i suggest it. Where the dmaxstore stuff has its downfalls, the exaxt kit improves on it. Thats why i wish exaxt was still selling down here. all wear parts could be picked up at any auto parts shop with an exaxt kit. We can go round and round henry but you know my points and i know your points, we just each prefer a different setup over the other. To me, mine is tried and trued as well but i dont disagree with what you have pointed out, i aint makin money off it so why should i care? no hard feelings :hug:

No hard feeling there's really not much money in these parts other then when you look at the cost of the dmax store kit 699.00. And what repair parts cost to what factory parts cost is a jump as I see it. I sell the 1 1/2 center link and sleeves shipped for 360.00 but Tongs brace is the cheaper way to go.

 

[ikeG]

I'm thinkin about doin the all seasons brace and wondering what idler support if any can be run with it?

I'm running Dmaxstore's idler pivot assembly and the optional weld-on gusset with the All Season brace. Seems bulletproof! The idler cannot go/flex anywhere now, which is still the issue when using only the Cognito braces.

 

[arneson]

Thanks 04jicm, how hard was the install on the idler assembly? I'm lookin at doin twins, injectors, dual cp3s and front locker. Then buildin motor soon after . Just want something that can handle the hp level. I'm goin to try and find what u are talkin about and see what I come up with. How u like your locker? How much?

 

[ikeG]

The Dmaxstore.com stuff is there own brand called Kryptonite. They also sell the supersteer idler kit and gusset, but the Kryptonite one is alot beefier. Got my locker on sale thru summit for like 730. Works flawlessly. Dont know exactly how much it gained me but it has to help!!

 

[arneson]

That's exactly what I needed to hear. Lol goin to look at it right now. Gotta try something different then this cognito crap. As for the locker is there a specific brand or any? Just wanna be able to launch half way straight someday. And would think a locker has to help for pullin. Its got to.

 

[ikeG]

For a front locker, we have two options: Eaton E-Locker and ARB Air locker
Eaton is electro magnetic(just flip the switch) ARB needs a compressor and tank and lines(not included with locker IIRC)

Dont drag my truck (yet) but by the sounds the All Season brace is really effective at the track!:thumb: