Cams
- Thread starter blue09dmaxx
- Start date
I'd say when you built it, some say the stock cams are good for over 1k hp. The total package (cam, turbos, converter, injectors, etc...) mine pulled hard off the bottom and had no sweet spots, spooling was very easy and smooth. I didn't want to do the wishing game of what would it be like after it was together.. If you do get one make sure you have the reliefs in the pistons if the cam requires them. Hope I helped some
X2 Why take the chance on a built motor, I've seen several stockers shear the cam pin. I put a hamilton 192-200-109LSA .338"intake/.353"exh hot street/drag cam in mine. I Just finished up the motor build so not any real seat or dyno time yet but throttle response seems greatly improved over stock. :thumb:
Burkett racing will be putting in their stage 2 if I go with one obviously ill key stock one if I use it the stage 3 we discussed is a little much for my goals as its the cam buck spruill runs
I have been told that a stock cam almost requires valve reliefs. Much more lift and piston to valve contact will happen. So it would seem pointless to me to spend the money on a 'mild' cam, if it doesn't require relief cuts.
Cams are difference makers like in any other performance builds. Most guys do not believe they are worth the money. I would tell you to not do a regrind camshaft. They are cheaper by a couple hundred but you really need all the information on the camshaft and most guys won't give it to you. Regrinds have a fine line between having too much ground off and not lasting and being big enough to actually make it worth while. Do your research and get the information from the camshaft seller/maker or don't buy it from them. It is like buying anything else. You should know what you are buying instead of taking their word that it is right for you.:thumb:
The new cam he suggested he cuts .080 valve reliefs for and the man doing it is the reason mahle pistons come with valve reliefs it was his design supposedly
I have been acquiring parts for my lbz build. I have also been searching and trying to find info about aftermarket cams and trying to make a decision on which company to use or should I just use the stocker. I am undecided either way at this point.
A stock cam and head porting will requires compounds of nitrous to force volumetric efficiency.
With a cam and headwork increased volumetric efficiency will be had with a cost to drivabilty.
So if you are looking for a big single and top end power than the cam is a must.
A mild set of twins will perform fine stock and drive great.
There is also a bunch of wiggle room with good tuning.
That's just my take on it in a nutshell.
With a cam and headwork increased volumetric efficiency will be had with a cost to drivabilty.
So if you are looking for a big single and top end power than the cam is a must.
A mild set of twins will perform fine stock and drive great.
There is also a bunch of wiggle room with good tuning.
That's just my take on it in a nutshell.
Well yoy did not have your sig filled out so I did not know your goals.
Build your engine for what rpm range and airflow you will require.
If you want something in the middle or don't know where the truck will end up go middle of the road.
On a duramax I would suggest at least a mild cam in any build.
Like a .450 final lift grind. Yes that is not a huge increase but it can safely be had with a regrind and it helps efficiency and egts.
They cost about 400 dollars and come keyed.
I think a lot of guys me included did not want to put our opion out because we figured we would get beat up for having one.
Good luck with the build and I hope this is helpful.
I have zero drivability issues with ported heads and large camshaft.
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Thats because you do your own tuning bud.
Good deal though sounds like you have a real sweet setup.