I haven't finished my coffee yet, guess I'll go sit in the corner for awhile...............
LML Callies Durastar Crankshaft Issues??
- Thread starter Duramax_9505
- Start date
I haven't finished my coffee yet, guess I'll go sit in the corner for awhile...............
Na your all good, I just drink tea ..
If ya go back to the top and read my first couple post on this, which Callies obviously has also, I said believed it looked like harness issue. They say no it's machining issue on the thrust surface. Which bothers me worse because they built all those Ultabillet cranks a year before the Durastar release. And I have two of those billet version installed in a customer's boat that's shipping out to Australia very soon.
Doing my best to give them benefit of the doubt. While I secretly hope I'm correct and they're wrong, because if not, then they need to answer how did an employee started randomly screwing up the thrust surface finish after 100 cranks onto this Duramax manufactuing process??
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If ya go back to the top and read my first couple post on this, which Callies obviously has also, I said believed it looked like harness issue. They say no it's machining issue on the thrust surface. Which bothers me worse because they built all those Ultabillet cranks a year before the Durastar release. And I have two of those billet version installed in a customer's boat that's shipping out to Australia very soon.
Doing my best to give them benefit of the doubt. While I secretly hope I'm correct and they're wrong, because if not, then they need to answer how did an employee started randomly screwing up the thrust surface finish after 100 cranks onto this Duramax manufactuing process??
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Building an lb7 this winter 800-1000hp, are we better of taking our chances using a used lb7 crankshaft that checks out good or purchasing a Callie’s Durastar?
I have a stock LLY crank in my build. I’m more worried about the mains than he crank and I’m north of 1000hp.
Okay, only thing is I don’t know the history on this crank on how it was ran before I got it, but if it checks out okay at the machine shop then I should be okay? Are you running main studs?
Yes I have main studs. The early cranks seem to hold up better. That said, if a durastar is in the budget I'd recommend one with at least doweled billet mains. The main caps tend to deform and wipe oil off the crank causing bearing damage. Only reason I think I'm getting away with it is I have a lightweight rotating assembly and my motor also doesn't make peak power until late in the RPM range (480 single).
i would buy a durastar before using an old stock crank. Hell id use a new LML crank before a used stock crank when going for 1000hp and up. 800hp, your in a grey area. pick the hp you want to be at and overbuild it.
the crank has nothing to do with why they last longer.
This is why Guy runs a higher torque value on main studs. doweling will not take care of main cap movement. The side bolts are there for that job. will they help? im sure there is a little benefit. a girdle is the only way to stop a majority of it but even still, you will then put the deflection into the main webs of the block/mains. pick your poison here but more clearance will need to happen one way or the other. this is why guys use a LML block and/or fill it.
IIRC they added weight into the rotating assy on 06-10 making the crank/counterweight/balancer/flexplate etc heavier to account for this. The 11-16 crank is similar to LB7/LLY. I went with larger oil clearance, 20W50 oil, SoCal main stud torque and am praying it holds up for awhile with this big single on it. I know any more charger and it'll likely be the end of it.
Like James said, a girdle is the only way to really stop the main cap deformation (still better yet with billet mains and girdle) but it pushes that into the main webs. The 11+ blocks are much stronger in this area.
totally agree.
your post prior makes it sound like lb7/lly cranks are better. its the whole rotating assembly as you now added that added stress and caused more failures. 01-16 does not show any one crank to be inherantly stronger used for used or new for new. if you just insinuating that because he had an lb7 and was building it, he started off with lighter parts, that couldnt mean nothing without getting more info from him.
Touche, I lump the crank in with the rest of the rotating assy. On my setup we only removed weight to balance with all LB7/LLY parts (damper/flexplate).
Me-max, what crank are you running in your truck? This will be in a partial filled block, 2.6 sled pull truck. I have a fluid dampener I plan to run. Haven’t decided which rod or piston yet, but pistons will be forged. Sorry for derail
i would rather run an ATI/Socal Diesel damper. are you going to run the lb7 block?
if you can afford it, i would go a narrow rod journal crank from Callies or Socal Diesel (socals is even stronger/narrower than Callies). crank breakage wont be an issue then.
if you can afford it, i would go a narrow rod journal crank from Callies or Socal Diesel (socals is even stronger/narrower than Callies). crank breakage wont be an issue then.
Currently a callies compstar. Regret not going with a new OEM LB7.
Anything over 1200hp I suggest a lml block and a socal narrow journal crank. After 1200 you're playing with fire.
And I'm sticking with my original assumptions until proven wrong.
I do agree with the LML block statements above. At least we have decent consensus on that one.
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Well anyone else still having issues with these? I just finished a build and have another that just showed up for one.
