i believe there is a code on the torsion bars and that’s what you’ll use to order new ones. I couldn’t imagine what would be involved for fixing torsion bars since they get twisted. Maybe some fancy cryo treatment like crankshafts.
Cab Isolators
- Thread starter Jake707
- Start date
i believe there is a code on the torsion bars and that’s what you’ll use to order new ones. I couldn’t imagine what would be involved for fixing torsion bars since they get twisted. Maybe some fancy cryo treatment like crankshafts.
you want what you are seeing. this is preload on the leaf pack that helps force the tire down into a hole as you drive. there is a happy medium between too much sag (leafs laying too much on the overload) and not enough (no droop travel like you show with the axle hanging in the air). too far each direction hurts ride quality in terms of stock leaf packs. you are in the green zone now.
yes, torsions for sure sag/loose spring rate over time. There is no fixing them just like you cant fix a coilspring this way. i mean, you can try to by taking the temper out of the spring, stretching or rotating the metal back to factory spec and then putting the temper back into the metal but i cant say ive ever seen them last long this way.
leafs get away with this more due to the limited travel they see. if you are constantly loading and unloading the springs from just truck weight to fully loaded weight, they wont last as long as 100% new would. Deaver will continually re-arch leafs in a race pack for race trucks until they break or they notice the spring rate will not hold in their testing. in a race truck, those leafs need to be refreshed and checked every other race but these guys are pulling 20" of travel from a pack too (shit load of flex from leafs)
Hello Guys, James, In an earlier post, it was mentioned that the leaf packs had not changed much between an 01 and 20.
Would a leaf pack from a 20 or 21 be a bolt in for my 2002 2500HD Duramax?
After reading this thread I measured mine and there is only 1 inch of gap between the overloads and the next spring up.
I tow a heavy boat and over the last few years the rear end has dropped quite a bit.
I have added a Timbren "Suspension Enhancement System" which replaced the bump stops on the frame.
I do have a camper shell and quite a bit of "survival gear" in the bed. Truck weight 6000 pounds at what I consider empty.
I have Bilstein shocks and can't complain about the ride though... Roy
Would a leaf pack from a 20 or 21 be a bolt in for my 2002 2500HD Duramax?
After reading this thread I measured mine and there is only 1 inch of gap between the overloads and the next spring up.
I tow a heavy boat and over the last few years the rear end has dropped quite a bit.
I have added a Timbren "Suspension Enhancement System" which replaced the bump stops on the frame.
I do have a camper shell and quite a bit of "survival gear" in the bed. Truck weight 6000 pounds at what I consider empty.
I have Bilstein shocks and can't complain about the ride though... Roy
what i stated was that the overall design was no different, i then explain as far as how GM uses preload in the pack, distnace between overload and leaf pack and so on. I also then explain that the 01-10 are different from 11-19 and the 20 is different than all those. gotta make sure you read the whole post.
Im not sure what you are wanting if it rides good and hauls the stuff you want.
OK, I just added a helper leaf trying to get rid of the sag in the back. 67 bucks and a little labor, bought me about 3/4 inch in the rear.
I noticed a slight difference when I started driving it, the ride is acceptable, and there is no wheel hop on acceleration.
The Timbrens are adjusted with a slight gap - is this right?
As I figure it, I only have one other option, adding another 1/2 inch rubber spacer, which would mean zero gap, and some compression
as it sits.
I have not tried pulling the boat yet, but expect the added stiffness will be good insurance down the road.
A new leaf pack would be nice, but the price for GM stuff is a bit more than I want to spend right now.
Instead I am looking at a set of GM 20" x 8" alloy take-offs - 1.5 inch wider than my current 16" rims
Thanks again, Roy
I noticed a slight difference when I started driving it, the ride is acceptable, and there is no wheel hop on acceleration.
The Timbrens are adjusted with a slight gap - is this right?
As I figure it, I only have one other option, adding another 1/2 inch rubber spacer, which would mean zero gap, and some compression
as it sits.
I have not tried pulling the boat yet, but expect the added stiffness will be good insurance down the road.
A new leaf pack would be nice, but the price for GM stuff is a bit more than I want to spend right now.
Instead I am looking at a set of GM 20" x 8" alloy take-offs - 1.5 inch wider than my current 16" rims
Thanks again, Roy