building traction bars?
- Thread starter red1977
- Start date
2"sced 80,center link from tractor supply, i just made these myself cost total $84.00 :thumb: Dom is nice but reallll expensive
Caltracs is the fast fit and install kit I got. Like it very well. Ride can be bouncy with E rated tires in summer I run D tires and it's fine for me. Winter tires are rough riding though. Haven't had to touch a thing since the install either if that makes any better on experience of this.
2"sced 80,center link from tractor supply, i just made these myself cost total $84.00 :thumb: Dom is nice but reallll expensive
Yea the price went from $11.50 a foot to $14.50 in 30 day. Sucks but they are nice
its alot more then that were i live the steel place wanted 180 for 10 feet, they are way stronger and a nice finish you get what u pay for i guess..
Yea but some people have to live on a budget. I bought the d.o.m. one week and the tube adapters the next. And waiting on the joints. One peace at a time
I found a place that is sending me every thing joints nuts DOM tubing for 200 bucks, I only have to get brackets and weld every thing together.
2"sced 80,center link from tractor supply, i just made these myself cost total $84.00 :thumb: Dom is nice but reallll expensive
Those look like about every set we have made. :hug:
2"sced 80,center link from tractor supply, i just made these myself cost total $84.00 :thumb: Dom is nice but reallll expensive
so your end links are just tractor three point hitch ends??
yup thats correct i drilled and tapped the ends for grease fittings , because when they wear in they tend to rattle and the grease keeps them on the hush
so how do three point ends hold up?? just curious cause i'm looking at building some. i built some for my old 7.3 ford, with the three point ends, but then sold the truck so i never really drove with them to see if they rattled.
honestly never delt with 3 point im pretty sure if they dont have a grease fitting they will eventually wear and rattle, 1 reason alot of guys like using the rubber bushing style ends
I had James (chevy1925) use cromoly. DOM is easy to bend in our trucks with the incorrect bar thickness.
IIRC 1/4" thick wall is that right? i know my scd 80 is 1/4 thick its holding beautiful
They can work but the cost of tubing, bushings, shackle and labor to build is over double what the normal bars are that most guys use. I use a triangulated one on my samurai for rock crawlin. Yhere is no increased wear or noise with them if built right. The single bars are cheap and work well. The triangulated is better but cost goes up as well
Mine are not 1/4" thick. Not needed IMOP for most people. Ive yet to have someone bend my bars though. Id like to see a set on a puller to really be tested in the bar bending area, i know every other part will hold up fine otherwise.
Lol they all come chromoly. I wont go to any other weaker steel if im building them