building traction bars?

02dirtymax

Member
Jul 3, 2009
149
0
16
Ohio
I made mine with 1.5 or 2" schedule 80 and the top links as shown in the earlier pics. I actually cracked one of the top links in half once, so I put them in inverted into the pipe (necked down end actually inside the pipe) and they lasted for several years after that until I sold them. My advice is to do that or have as little as possible of the actual top link material serving as part of your bar.
 

05chevy

Active member
Jun 10, 2010
1,086
0
36
.250 does seem to be alittle over kill but at least it won't bend.

I can show u some pics of 1 1/4" .120 wall bent to hell just from drag racing. I have 1 1/2" .250 wall 4' long and they bend a little when I pull. Thats why everything a built now is 2" .250
 

buildingup

New member
Jan 1, 2010
113
0
0
Washington, Mi
Building a set for my cclb and am planning on using johnny hints on one end and bushings on the other, any issues with this? Bars will be 2" with 0.25" wall.

Also for length should I try getting them flat (~95"long) or should I run parallel to the second part of the drive shaft (~80" long)?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 

DuramaxPowered

Pushing my luck....
Jan 27, 2008
791
0
0
41
Monroe, MI
Building a set for my cclb and am planning on using johnny hints on one end and bushings on the other, any issues with this? Bars will be 2" with 0.25" wall.

Also for length should I try getting them flat (~95"long) or should I run parallel to the second part of the drive shaft (~80" long)?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

You will be fine with johnny joints and bushings. I just built a set last month the EXACT same (2" DOM .25" wall, Johnny joints on 1 end, poly bushings on the other). They work great. I purchased a 10' stick of DOM, cut it in half, and the overall length is in the 64-66" length. My truck is a CC/SB.
 

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buildingup

New member
Jan 1, 2010
113
0
0
Washington, Mi
^ you did a little more then I was planning on. I'm planning on doing two tabs of the bottom of the frame and two tabs of the bottom plate the u bolts go through. Be on a slight angle but shouldn't affect anything...

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JRODS*LB7

New member
Feb 1, 2012
642
0
0
44
SE Massachusetts
^ you did a little more then I was planning on. I'm planning on doing two tabs of the bottom of the frame and two tabs of the bottom plate the u bolts go through. Be on a slight angle but shouldn't affect anything...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

:thumb: thats what i did!
 

DuramaxPowered

Pushing my luck....
Jan 27, 2008
791
0
0
41
Monroe, MI
Either way, tabs under the frame or outboard mounts will get the job done. It is a huge difference with these on. I think that my truck responded even better than most, because I have had the overload spring removed for a while and axle wrap was extremely bad.
 

RedHotGMC

stock
Jan 16, 2012
339
2
18
Northern Utah
I used chromoly 1.5 in, and .150, I decided to do heims because I could pick them up cheap, but I havent had any rubbing or bending issues and mine work great.
 

redneck191218

New member
Jun 20, 2010
21
0
1
I just built a set bars based off caltracs using 5/8" stud 1/2" hole rod ends and 3/4 Sch 80 304 stainless tubing and 1/4" thick aluminum plate. The bushings I machined out of delrin 150 high density plastic. I'll get pics up as soon as I can
 

Thikcheese

Garrett
Feb 22, 2018
1
0
0
Oklahoma City
Traction bars

Hey I saw where you were sent everything needed to put together traction bars for $200. Where did you order it all from? I know the post was from a few years back but hoping you can remember.. Thanks!
 

Spank

New member
Jan 19, 2016
34
0
0
Upstate NY
I made my own 2” square tubing 1/4” thick. Roughly 8ft long CCLB, they meet around the center of my rear doors. Alittle over kill but whatever