building one possibly two motors...

dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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friend of mine is losing coolant and some is ending up in the oil so we pulled the block last night to begin to inspect it and possibly do a full build and it got me in the mood to build my motor before anything catastrophically fails and damages the block.

a few questions for my lbz....

is it worth getting the gm gasket kit or are most of them reusable enough to grey rtv back in?

head gaskets, always go c grade or can i go a for higher compression?

will lbz rods hold up to everything a stock lbz cp3 and a 4094 can throw at it? most likely will not go to a 42 because i still tow with this truck quite a bit.

it it really worth de-lipping the lb7/lly pistons or can i use them in stock form?

i'll key the cam and crank and do head studs.

what else should i service in my block while its apart?

did i miss anything?


my friends lb7....
we are trying to budget build both to hold up to mild/moderate sled pulling and dd without worrying about breakage....

will lbz/lmm rods hold up to an a5k with a single lbz cp3?

are there any more reliable injectors out there to replace the lb7 problematic ones?


this should get me started on deciding if i want to build mine yet or wait, i'm sure i'll come up with more questions lol
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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Most of the gaskets can be reused in your LBZ but you will not use the gray sealer on them. Some of the o-ring you will want to replace. I can tell you that you will notlike towing with the 4094 atleast with a 1.06 housing my egts were high. On the roads there good to about 600-650 and you will want to replace the rod bolts but reuse them to check clearence there tq to yield. On your buddys truck I would not try using the lbz rods with the a5k he is going to add fuel in time and the rods will not hold the same holds true to your build if you add more fuel.
 

dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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i towed 15-20k with the 4088 and did not have much trouble, i did pay much more attention to the egts and keep the r's up accordingly so hopefully the 94 isn't much worse. if it is then it will be back to the stocker till i find a better option but i will still be at the sled pulls either way and want to drive home under my own power without the worry that i may pop a piston
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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With a single cp3 and the 4094 and towing and 2001 2500 ex cab 2500 HD 4x4 sb. I was towing it to wv on most hill I was buring the 1600 egt gauge and could not make over 20 psi of boost. Had to drop to 4th gear and scream it to almost 3,800 to get 40 psi and see egts in the 950 to 1000 area hardest grade was 7%. At the track I saw 1600 just past the 1/8 mile hate to see what it was goingthru the traps. I know on a single cp3 and the 4094 I cracked #6 and #3 look burned alittle. Might want to pick the turbo setup that will work best for you they start to add up over time swapping out.
 

dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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damn sounds worse than the 88..... maybe i'll end up swapping again in the future but this will be my setup for now since its already on the way.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
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My $0.02 is there is no way I'd open up a dmax for a "rebuild" and NOT put aftermarket rods in it if it's gonna get more than 500rwhp regularly. 500rwhp driver, I'd consider LBZ/LMM rods but even then, I'd try my dangedest to still get rods in it and pin the cam and crank while it was all apart. Obviously, if it's an LBZ, IMO it's also a no brainer to put LB7/LLY pistons in it at the least.


C-ya and good luck
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
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I am with Mitch , it is alot of time and money to spend to get something that can still be hurt pretty easily . I can can relate to the expense of doing a motor and yes the rods are the most expensive item , but also the most crucial, in all the area's i would and did skimp on a build, the rods would not be the item to go cheap on IMOP, really defeats the purpose of even cracking the motor open .
 
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dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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my biggest concern is cracking one of these lbz pistons.....

what are the cost of carillo howards and crowers right now?

any other brands out there? if i'm really desperate maybe a set or duramaxtuner rods!!! LOL scratch that unless they come for a spare block when they window mine
 

fishsmith

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May 14, 2008
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:rofl: Nick officially got out of the rod business after a few sets were shortened and one made a siteglass in the side of ben's block.:rofl::rofl:
 

dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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i know lol i was in bens garage as the motor was being removed that type of stuff is what i want to avoid. i want to be able to daily drive and sled pull on the weekends at the local fairs and not have any worries about a motor failure.
 

Leadfoot

Needs Bigger Tires!
Dec 27, 2006
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my biggest concern is cracking one of these lbz pistons.....

Cracking a piston usually means boring and oversizing which while not fun to fix is alot cheaper than when a rod breaks (you've seen what it can do to a motor).

As stated, I wouldn't crack the motor open without doing rods, especially with the turbo (and turbos) you run (and have run).

My .02
 

dmaxfireman

'Can do' kind of guy
Apr 8, 2007
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henry didn't you also run some nitrous through your motor before the piston popped? with a stock lbz cp3 and a 4094 and 40%overs could i really put enough through the motor to hurt the lbz rods? i can't put a dual fueler on it because my air compressor is already in that spot.
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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I got lucky and did not hurt the block so it stayed stb. But mine let got at around 2300 rpm's and I shut it down coasted and started it long enough to make a turn and get in a ditch. I had well over 100 1/4 mile passes lots of street racing 2 hooks on the sled alot of nos ran thru it. And I was hard on the truck from the day I drove it of the dealers lot.

What is your budget for your build ?