I personally went with rods and head studs for my piece of mind.i like the studs because the arps are reuseable IF need be,And i think worse case so breaking a rod and windowing a block ............rods are cheap insurance,yes expensive but shouldnt ever need to be replaced.No built engine and NO arp head studs is like cheap insurance kinda with stock rods...Most likely you will pop a gasket in a perfect world before bending a rod there for me sayn don't want head studs on a stock short block. Actually the head bolts will last longer than a stock rod FWIW
Do all these comments apply to a 2005 LLY as well? Or would the parts list be different? Thanks guys
I already have lift pump, tuning, and etc. just not the transmission.
Know anyone who sells that turbo?
An LB7 can do 600 rwhp on stock injector but if you want to do it on a stock motor and have it last I would recommend bigger injectors so that you can run more conservative PW and timing, while still getting all the fuel you need for 600 rwhp.
There are so many ways to get to 600 rwhp it's ridiculous: nitrous, twins, slightly larger single, BatMo in a stock charger, etc.
Our LLY that did 604 rwhp on a completely stock LLY charger on fuel only was with a modded pump, big injectors (100%), manifolds, up-pipes, downpipe, 3" boost tubes, and 3" Y-bridge. He beats Matt's S366, modded pump, bigger injector truck that is tuned by Georgia Diesel at pretty much every pull yet can still pull stock class... I think on an LB7 you wouldn't be able to hit quite 600 rwhp on a stock charger (close but I just don't think it would do it on fuel on an accurate dyno), but I think with a drop in BatMo wheel it could be done easily.
Thanks for the advice dude. Can I ask was that truck a white crew cab? I think I met him in Hickory and Peachland a couple of times.
Anyway, with a single setup like let's say Trent's s366, 45% injectors, transmission (of course) and some good tuning, we looking good for a 600hp truck? Of course the actual 600hp tune will be in my 5th position, I want low hp tunes for Daily Driving of course.
Thanks for the advice dude. Can I ask was that truck a white crew cab? I think I met him in Hickory and Peachland a couple of times.
Anyway, with a single setup like let's say Trent's s366, 45% injectors, transmission (of course) and some good tuning, we looking good for a 600hp truck? Of course the actual 600hp tune will be in my 5th position, I want low hp tunes for Daily Driving of course.
Im goin to batmo my stock charger and put 40 over nozzles/modded reg on and give tuning a whirl and hopefully get closer to 600 on STOCK motor and turbo.
Most people dont realize the potential of a stock duramax with just lift pump and a trans to hold it!
Spending money before you have it, nice.. The American way. This topic has been beat to death. Ask James if you will pop a head gasket before you bend a rod. He bent his rods with twins. I say build your trans first and go from there. Its fun to say " yeah I'm going to get this turbo and these injectors and blah blah blah." What are you running now? You may be perfectly happy with a built trans and good tuning.
#'s in my sig with stock injectors, cp3, no head studs, trans and lift pump.
i would just twin over stocker to keep the driveability of the truck and limit the lag. PLus, the s475 over stocker kits can support 750-800 with dual fuelers and built motor if you really wanted to get nuts with it.
I've seen you on DF and I would take the others' advice for sure and get a maxeffort tune with a built trans first and let us know what you think. its a totally different animal.