Brakes

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
I know this is best to death, but my trucks heavier than most. I've always ran factory rotors and Wagner ceramic pads, similar to oem, and they suck.

I'm at 96k miles now and the stock back brakes just started squeaking, I'm slapping a cheap set of pads on to get me by while I'm gone so I don't hear the squeak.

So what's a good set up that stops better I can order while I'm gone?

I'm thinking a slotted rotor and some type of semi metallic pad, I'm ditching the fuel cell and tool box soon so I'll shed 1,000+ lbs.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
power steering fluid flush and brake fluid flush always makes a decent difference from what i see (assuming you have not done yours in a while Reger). i would do Anthonys setup but my wheels are too small. he has nothing but good to say about it
 

oscyjack

New member
May 7, 2016
775
0
0
Northeast
I've got drilled and slotted centrics with ceramic pads. Also got power stop calipers. Have 10k on em with no issues. Stops better but let's be real it's a heavy ass truck. The difference was noticeable but she still stops like a tank.

FYI with calipers I paid less than $800 out the door for all 4 corners
 

Slowmax

Build what others' won't
Aug 3, 2013
468
0
0
United States
You made it almost 100k on stock stuff, so I would put that back on. The only real true way to upgrade the braking system, is going with a different caliper setup. Save your money on fancy rotors', and pad claims'. Or just change your driving habits'.
 

oscyjack

New member
May 7, 2016
775
0
0
Northeast
I figured saving some heat couldn't hurt. Wasn't too worried about cracked rotors but it's always possible. Just make sure there is only one drill per vein. These ones have a 2 year warranty against any failures or wear out.

Only reason I got calipers is because my were seized up and the brakes were on the factory fluid fill from the previous owner. Was easier to order new powder coated ones
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
501
113
Central OH
Why don't you like the Wagner pads? I run the thermoquiet on a few different vehicles and they seem to do very well. Maybe look at the SD line of Wagners?
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
4,090
2
38
CT
I've been wary of slotted rotors because of heat and cracking.

I haven't decided yet but I'm probably going with wilwoods. I think ssbc makes a set that's a bit cheaper too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

oscyjack

New member
May 7, 2016
775
0
0
Northeast
Supposedly one of the benefits of drilled and slotted is less heat retention and greater surface area for heat dissipation. I don't have any complaints with mine thus far and no signs of trouble yet
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
Why don't you like the Wagner pads? I run the thermoquiet on a few different vehicles and they seem to do very well. Maybe look at the SD line of Wagners?

I don't know if any of your all's trucks do it but my brakes are VERY inconsistent, one day they put you in the dash and the next you have to stand on the pedal. Seems like after I wash the truck or leave it sit they work great but drive an hour and bam, they suck. I've had that same issue with the delcos and the wagoners.

I just picked up a 20 dollar set of pads from advance for the back to get me by until I get in as mine are squeaking and I'm leaving town.

My pedal is always firm and I keep the fluids flushed it's just the pads and/or rotors themselves, it stops great one day and can't stand on it hard enough the next.
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
Well it's not quite that dramatic, it is some days, but like today, it's been raining, trucks been sitting and the brakes were effortless, two days ago it would blow right through them slowing down.
 

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
3,964
8
38
36
Goodyear, AZ
It has to be all the extra weight. My brakes are very consistent, the only time they are iffy is if I've been on them hard on a steep decline with lots of turns. I'm on my original OEM set with 170k on the clock and still over 50% life left.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
I've been wary of slotted rotors because of heat and cracking.

I haven't decided yet but I'm probably going with wilwoods. I think ssbc makes a set that's a bit cheaper too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

drilled yes, slotted only rotors, not so much. cant say i have seen any slotted only rotors that have cracked but i dont see many of them on these trucks

anything performancewise you put on reger is going to be quicker wearing UNLESS you go with a bigger rotor and/or bigger pads as well.

my stock brakes suck when i have anything more than 2k behind the truck (10k gross then). 1000lbs in the bed it stops ok but i still give room for stopping distance. 212k on my stock pads and rotors. they will probably need replacing in the next 20-30k though.
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
501
113
Central OH
Maybe a caliper is a little stiff causing it to drag and heat up after a short drive?

I have Wagner thermoquiet on the rear, SD on the front. I've pulled an enclosed trailer with 2 RZRs down the hills of 77 through WV a couple times and they seem to do ok. $.02
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
Calipers are great, rotors all have a groove in the center and the last 1/4" on the top and bottom of the pad isn't even hitting the rotor too and bottom on all the inners. Have it tore apart now, will order slotted rotors and some oem style pads and figure out how to make the inner pads quit wearing like they do.