LB7: BPU's for the LB7

WanaDmaxsub

WanaDmaxsub

Junior Member W/gray hair
Feb 17, 2007
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TheBac said:
Oh really? Another good trick to know....thanks wana!
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:eek:Weeeeeeeeeelllllll...Now that I have had a day to think about what I said...it doesn't make a lot of sense. The wastegate doesn't care if the A/C is on or off, or even what tune you have installed. All it cares about is pressure. When it see's whatever it's set at, it opens.

Disregard what I said....you should be able to set it up with an air pump and good gauge off the truck, then install it.

Sorry about that!
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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JOHNBOY said:
BPU stands for Basic Performance Upgrades. These are modifications that don't require engine disassembly. Here is my list of basic power mods:

1: Tuning - EFILive, PPE, or custom EFI Live tunes. To get over 500RWHP I recommend EFI Live tuning done on a dyno. Every truck is different. What dynos well on one truck may not on another. Don’t over look canned tuning as it might get you there.
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2:4" exhaust with no cat front pipe and high flow muffler.
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3: Lift pump - While some might be able to dyno well with out it is best to have one. It will help your CP3 live and will help you sustain rail pressure
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4: Intake - A good aftermarket intake will help. I don’t care for the stock LB7 intake. I don’t care what the tests say. They dyno says my K&N FIPK made more power.
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5: Gages: I recommend at least a boost gage. EGT and fuel pressure gages are nice.
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6: Boost valve. Like the PPE valve can help. You want to get to 32 psi of boost on the gage. Some need the valve to get there some do not. Be careful the stock turbo will go boom at over 35psi pretty easily.
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7: Auto Transmission upgrade or Clutch upgrade - The stock Allison will hate you at over 360RWHP. A good converter and internal upgrade kit is a must IMHO. The stock manual trans clutch is barely good for stock power. The Dual Mass flywheel is junk. You will want to upgrade both. Currently the only upgrades are from South Bend Clutch. A single disk will hold but for only so long. I recommend a Dual Disk.
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Nice write up John:)
duramaximizer said:
by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool. :D
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What does the Ficm have to do with it? It is just a pipe that flows through the case?:confused:
 
mytmousemalibu

mytmousemalibu

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Apr 12, 2008
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sweetdiesel said:
What does the Ficm have to do with it? It is just a pipe that flows through the case?:confused:
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Well I've had my pump running at 12-15 psi because i dont run a pressure regulator and fuel started leaking from the FICM case! Well i took it out and tighted the case screws up somw, were kinda loose and the leak stopped. So theres a hint right there, fuel does flow "freely" inside it otherwise why would it stop leaking from tightening the case? I didn't open it up to see inside but i would like to on a junker. Also, lots for guys say anything above 10psi causes a funny idle at times, well mine does sometimes but it could also be my modded FCA causing that. If not, i could only speculate its from too much pressure on the FICM circuts?

Also:
And if you tee'ed into the line for a cooling circut for it and regulated it down and add a check valve on the return...your going to get very little if any flow to cool it. It must return (empty) into a volute with lower pressure than regulated inlet psi to achive flow. And you wouldn't want to plumb its return to the trucks fuel return, because then your bleeding off fuel volume/psi that you want to keep. I wouldnt want to cool it with return fuel flow either, not enough volume and the fuels hot coming back out of the injection system. At the volt/amps the FICM runs at, i bet it gets pretty damn hot. Prolly the best way to cool the FICM is its own tiny isolated cooling system, filled with a light oil, or non water/soluable fluid or diesel again. A small resivour, small cooler, computer fan?, small pump.

I am working on such a system for my truck! I have a great pump sourced to use for it thats quiet, flows very good, pump is magnetic drive so no "coolant" through the motor.
 
KEVINL

KEVINL

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Jul 4, 2008
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TheBac said:
Looks like we should probably add Michael's modded turbo inlet to this list.
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good idea I need to get mine done.


Other than a lift pump I don't think anything needs to be done with the fuel system with a stock turbo. My truck held 3200pw with just a lift pump I have dropped it down to 2850 with the stock turbo because 3200 is a waste with the stock turbo imo
 
Noreaster

Noreaster

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should split the list into 2 parts, 1st bpu for 500hp & 2nd being bolt ons that get you close to 600.
add a downpipe & up pipes to the 600hp list
 
L

landers11889

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May 30, 2009
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you dont need down pipes and uppipes for 600HP you need a turbo and those or nitrous. I have 600+HP with my truck it wouldnt be possible without the turbo.
 
Mike_S

Mike_S

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Guys, running insane lift pump pressures is pointless. All it does is increase the return rate from the CP3. There is an internal regulator inside the pump that regulates case pressure, anything above that pressure just becomes return to the fuel tank.
 
Noreaster

Noreaster

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Mike_S said:
Guys, running insane lift pump pressures is pointless. All it does is increase the return rate from the CP3. There is an internal regulator inside the pump that regulates case pressure, anything above that pressure just becomes return to the fuel tank.
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I could see insane pressure but a pump setup that runs more than 12 psi after the FCM has shown improvements
 
chevy_dmax

chevy_dmax

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Apr 30, 2008
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Hi all, not to drag this OT but does anybody know what voltage and current the ficm uses to run and does it vary with rpm or load and such? Just curious to find wattage that this thing needs to dissipate the heat. Also another dumb question, but why is water based coolant a no no on these? Forgive my ignorance.

Thanks,
Bill.
 
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TheBac

TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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IIRC, LB7 FICM runs on 97 or 98 volts.


This is info found by ripmf666 last year:

Injector Operation LB7/LLY( prior to 2006)
The FICM uses two drivers to contol each injector.The High Side Driver(HSD) delivers 93 volts updated to 97 volts to the B+ side of the injector.Each HSD powers four of the eight injectors,Connector C1,terminal3,powers injectors1,4,6,and 7(Bank 1).Connector C2,terminal 118 powers injectors 2,3,5,and 8 (Bank 2).

Bank 1 is on the right side of the engine.The firing order is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

The Low Side Driver,(LSD) grounds the injector to turn it On.There is one LSD for each injector.

A peak-hold strategy is used to open the injectors.It requires up to 20 amps to open the injector and 12-15 amps to hold it open.

If a circuit fault occurs for a single injector, a P0201-P0208 DTC will set.In addition, A DTC will set for the bank that contains the injector.
A fault on bank 1 (1,4,6,7) will set a P1261 and fault on bank 2(2,3,5,8) will set a P1262.

(Loose one loose them all)
 
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chevy_dmax

chevy_dmax

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Thanks......I knew the lb7 worked on 96 volts or so. So pretty much 97 volts at a maximum of 20 amps at an given time....so roughly 1940 watts. Hmmm thats more than I was thinking. If the lbz/lmm works on 48 volts, do thier injectors require twice the current to operate. Sorry guys for OT.

Maybe need to start another thread to brainstorm about this.

Thanks Tom,

Bill.
 
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