Is a lbz rad thicker than lb7?
Why the thinner oil in hotter temps? Seems counterproductive to me
i hear ya but it tells me the heat exchanger is adding heat to the trans fuild, not taking it away and we have surpassed what the stock air-to-oil cooler can do for wisking away heat. i agree, it will only help but im after the bigger culprit IMHO, the radiator. if i keep the coolant cool, trans will stay cooler and engine oil will stay cooler at their peaks. its another reason IMHO the stock engine oil cooler cools that engine oil a hell of alot better than people think. i seem to be the only on that page of thinking, even when Michael (super diesel) was talking about oil cooling. you can follow it every damn time the engine oil hits 240+, coolant temp starts climbing. at that point, engine oil is inducing more heat into the radiator than can be pulled away. i bet you would see a heck of a difference in coolant temps before and after the stock cooler when pulling a hill loaded. they all load the radiator up and while all these coolers are cooling the small arteries (so to speak), the biggest one has not been addressed that sees it all (minus fuel temps), the rad.
I think that is coco's thought process. If the transmission temperatures are lowered 10* with an aftermarket trans cooler maybe the transmission fluid being cooler will pull more heat out of the rad when it passes through?
You can retrofit the lbz cooling stack to the older trucks. You have to do the radiator, intercooler, upper and lower supports, and many other small parts. There was an article many years ago in diesel world I believe that cover a PPE project swapping everything over. It included all the part numbers. Overheating issue went away on the LLY they did it to.
I'm not a rotella fan, I'm definitely biased towards higher grade lubricant, but I'll be honest, as an avid Amsoil user I watched some comparative tests between some of their products and products made by Lubrication Technologies recently and switched immediately. I would suggest to anyone now to look into trying their products. We ordered several thousand gallons for our turbines to replace a ConocoPhillips product that we test monthly and individual bearing temps dropped an average of 15°F...that's at roughly 12,000 rpm and 5000hp with tilt pad bearings. I started switching our greases over to theirs as well in everything we maintain, some of those bearings are remotely monitored and some aren't touched for 30 years. I'm interested in seeing the results over time. Not trying to be too much of an infomercial, but I've started to get more in depth with bearing failure, vibration theory, and lubrication techniques for my regular job and have learned a lot.
I know I've harperd oil temp to you more than once.. Definitely interested in lb7/lbz radiatoy size....
Like you said oil temp is the first to climb and go nutts... Everything else follows..
I'd like to have a 550-600hp hotshot.. I know cooling will be an issue.. Have you thought about gear swap? Dropping a ratio say 4.10s would pull some of the load off the engine....
On my dads LMM the trans gets hot before the coolant temp. I also see oil pressure drop when egts go up. Then the coolant starts getting warm. I think the engine coolant isn't the problem but the LMM radiator is bigger than yours.
So off the shelf, what's a name brand you would get or off Amazon? Or are you saying go with amsoil? I need something readily available. I don't wanna have to hunt for it if I'm out of town and happen to run through what ever spare fluid I bring should I have an issue. In always open to other oils, I just use rotella cause I've never had issues with it. Well or at least as far as oil samples have told me. They say the oil I still good after 3k miles but I change it anyhow.
Lol I know, a scoop will be added for our Labor Day trip to try.
She's got 4.56 gears in the axles. That with the new intercooler was a decent change. Cooling stack was cleaned thoroughly at that time as well.