thoughts on this as an oil cooler? Help or waste?
That style of cooler isn't very efficient. Would it work, probably. Work well, probably not.
Best way to cool Duramax
- Thread starter MMLMM
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That style of cooler isn't very efficient. Would it work, probably. Work well, probably not.
That ought to do SOMETHING to help outMy big question is plumbing... how do we plump any of this stuff in? Is there already an oil cooler of some kind and we just get longer hose to re-route it? Doesn't seem there's any factory oil cooling...
Sorry to hi-jack the LMM thread.... figured it was relevant to the conversation though?
There is a factory oil cooler, but it is part of the filter housing and uses coolant to exchange heat.
A sandwich type adapter at the oil filter is a popular choice for plumbing.
i don't notice much of (if any) difference when taking out my fender wells.
i was thinking about taking out the underhood insulation but i can't see it making that much of a difference.
i did notice about a 2* drop with the mouth piece that i made.
i have used water wetter in the past and it does work great.
i was thinking about taking out the underhood insulation but i can't see it making that much of a difference.
i did notice about a 2* drop with the mouth piece that i made.
i have used water wetter in the past and it does work great.
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I thought water wetter was a no no to add to these trucks? I just make sure to keep coolant in it.
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There are tow kinds of water wetter I would not run the gas one in our trucks
They make a Diesel one
Red Line's Diesel Water Wetter provides all the same improvements in cooling efficiency as regular Water Wetter, but without the rust and corrosion inhibitors. Designed for heavy-duty diesel engines that use more than 33 percent antifreeze, this treatment improves the ability of coolant to wet heat transfer by 50 percent. This provides significantly better coolant contact in the cylinder head, in turn reducing coolant and cylinder head temperatures by as much as 10-20 degrees F. Red Line Diesel Water Wetter won't lower the temperature of the cooling system below the thermostat temperature, and is effective when the thermostat is wide open, such as in heavy traffic or climbing long grades. This improvement in wetting helps reduce cavitation in liners and water pumps
ive seen 230 ect and 260 oil temps this summer hauling my 30' gooseneck, thats hauling ass up and down hills, egts never got over 1200*.......i have an oil cooler but not sure how to hook it up properly, what about maintaining oil psi when installed??
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I'm interested. My fan drives me nuts. and even without lifting the hood I can just feel the heat even in 100* weather.
I don't like the idea of losing the inner fenders as it seems to me that may actually hinder the cooling off process, maybe just me. I have removed my hood insulation.
I think a true cold air intake, lower degree thermostats, electric fans including the one for the tranny cooler, and maybe adding an oil cooler is a possibility to get it fixed. But I'm not an engineer or a mechanic...............
I don't like the idea of losing the inner fenders as it seems to me that may actually hinder the cooling off process, maybe just me. I have removed my hood insulation.
I think a true cold air intake, lower degree thermostats, electric fans including the one for the tranny cooler, and maybe adding an oil cooler is a possibility to get it fixed. But I'm not an engineer or a mechanic...............
x2. My LLY never gets hot, even with 15k behind it. The damn trans on the other hand.....
Flex-a-lite sells plenty of different sizes of fans.
You could try plumbing in an oil cooler at the filter base and return it to the upper oil pan, but I would keep an eye on oil pressure at first to make sure it doesn't drop too much as there may not be much resistance to flow with just a cooler inline. One might be able to use the return flow as a supply for the turbo. This is what I plan to do when I install an aftermarket turbo and should not cause any oil pressure issues as your turbo provides the flow resistance.
You could try plumbing in an oil cooler at the filter base and return it to the upper oil pan, but I would keep an eye on oil pressure at first to make sure it doesn't drop too much as there may not be much resistance to flow with just a cooler inline. One might be able to use the return flow as a supply for the turbo. This is what I plan to do when I install an aftermarket turbo and should not cause any oil pressure issues as your turbo provides the flow resistance.
What are your drive pressures when it is getting hot? Oil Temps? EGTs?
Though I like the idea of an oil cooler in general, you need a significant sized one to make a dent in ECTs.
Improving air flow across the stack is always good, but the return in diminishing as you approach the ultimate capacity of the radiator.
Same goes for the cold air intakes. Diminishing returns for each improvement.
However, I don't see 210* as a problem with the cooling system. To make sure, drop a couple thermostats that are rated 5* lower and see if the running temps go down. If so, there just isn't a problem.
But, what do I know....
Though I like the idea of an oil cooler in general, you need a significant sized one to make a dent in ECTs.
Improving air flow across the stack is always good, but the return in diminishing as you approach the ultimate capacity of the radiator.
Same goes for the cold air intakes. Diminishing returns for each improvement.
However, I don't see 210* as a problem with the cooling system. To make sure, drop a couple thermostats that are rated 5* lower and see if the running temps go down. If so, there just isn't a problem.
But, what do I know....
i would think you could get away with this if you could mount it
http://www.jcwhitney.com/DERALE-FAN-COOLED-ENGINE-AND-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLERS/GP_2000854_N_111+10201+600007258_10101.jcw
http://www.jcwhitney.com/DERALE-FAN-COOLED-ENGINE-AND-TRANSMISSION-OIL-COOLERS/GP_2000854_N_111+10201+600007258_10101.jcw
x2. My LLY never gets hot, even with 15k behind it. The damn trans on the other hand.....
wes, your factory gauge is lieing to you though....
the engine temp guage?? trans guage?? both?? you mean gm cant even get those right...
wtf??
the engine temp guage?? trans guage?? both?? you mean gm cant even get those right...
not sure on trans, but I know for a fact the ECT is wrong... I'll show you with my V2.
the engine temp guage?? trans guage?? both?? you mean gm cant even get those right...
Most auto manf. dumb down the ECT guage, not just GM. I was a Honda wrench for about 12 years, and even their temp gauge would read "normal" from 180ish to around 225*..
or chevy and gmc with tank 250
I could use some help too my truck runs hot when towing it really sucks,whats a water wetter sorry for my ignorance,also do you think edge evo,using it as a gauge is acurate
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