Ball joints?

[dordtrecht5]

Sounds like mine are beginning to go with 136,000. What is the avg. mileage for the ball joints on these trucks? Anybody know? It could be pitman/idler but steering isn't loose and only rattles over jarring in the road and I've notices it pulling into rough entrances at the store.

 

[jraymer]

I have almost 150k on mine but they are probably due.

 

[chevyburnout1]

I got almost 200k out of mine. Probably would have gotten more if I didn't have the front end raised up. You said it has a rattle noise only on slow speed maneuvers? Kind of sounds like a steering I-shaft or a lower steering column bearing to me.

 

[dordtrecht5]

I got almost 200k out of mine. Probably would have gotten more if I didn't have the front end raised up. You said it has a rattle noise only on slow speed maneuvers? Kind of sounds like a steering I-shaft or a lower steering column bearing to me.

I wouldn't really call it "low speed maneuvers" because I have noticed it at above 25-30 mph. Any speed above that there's too much drone from the stack to hear any rattling in the front. If it were the steering column, wouldn't I feel it in the steering wheel? I don't know what a steering I shaft is, can you help me out there by explaining it and where it is?

 

[chevyburnout1]

Yeah you usually feel it in the steering wheel although it can feel like its coming from farther forward under the vehicle. I'm referring to the steering intermediate shaft, the short steering assembly that connects the lower steering column to the lower steering shaft/steering box. It has two u-joints and a slip shaft that allows for the shaft to contract/expand. This slip shaft gets worn out.

The lower steering column bearing can start getting loose causing the steering shaft in the lower steering column to rattle. Usually if that's the case the sound will sound like its in your cab, and not more-so outside. Easy way to test is to grab the shaft coming out of the lower steering column and try to move it up and down.

Hopefully that helps. These may not even be your case at hand but just some helpful suggestions. I really haven't seen ball joints cause a noise on these trucks but there is a first for everything.

 

[dordtrecht5]

Thanks

 

[BUST'EM 504]

How do you tell if the ball joints are bad? Are there any tell take signs? My tires are wearing really terrible as of late

 

[dordtrecht5]

How do you tell if the ball joints are bad? Are there any tell take signs? My tires are wearing really terrible as of late

That is usually the best sign, and usually its the inside that wears worst. I had a 70 Impala that had bad ball joints, this was the sign they needed replaced, and they also rattled a lot. Once I replaced the ball joints, problem solved. I am not saying that is your problem, but...

Also, it USED TO BE that if you grabbed the tire, once it's in the air, and you can move the vertical line of the tire, its ball joints. If you can move the horizontal line of the tire, it's steering (tie rod, pitman/idler).

 

[chevyburnout1]

Also, it USED TO BE that if you grabbed the tire, once it's in the air, and you can move the vertical line of the tire, its ball joints. If you can move the horizontal line of the tire, it's steering (tie rod, pitman/idler).

That would be your best bet to do first. If you do have play make sure you verify its ball joints, as a wheel hub can cause the same looseness feeling.

 

[Chevy1925]

Not to metion, if the UCA is on its bumpstop cause you lifted the truck via the frame, you wont feel the bad upper ball joint if you try moving the tire vertically or use a pry bar to try to move the UCA

 

[DBUSHLB7]

Not to metion, if the UCA is on its bumpstop cause you lifted the truck via the frame, you wont feel the bad upper ball joint if you try moving the tire vertically or use a pry bar to try to move the UCA

Good bit of info there. As I had some play in my wheel when lifted from the control arm, I assumed it was a bad wheel bearing. As I got my wheel bearings in the mail yesterday, I set out to swap them right away. This time I picked up the truck from the frame rail. Rocked the tire back and forth from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and couldn't budge it. Bearing seemed ok for now. Jacked the truck back up by the control arm and sure enough the slop was back. Decided to replace the upper ball joint as it seemed the new weak link. Went to remove the 18mm nut on the ball joint and it was almost threaded completely off! Loc-tited those puppies, put the wheels back on and whammo, no more slop. So it's important to lift the truck from diff places to identify the weak link.:thumb:

 

[Chevy1925]

Good bit of info there. As I had some play in my wheel when lifted from the control arm, I assumed it was a bad wheel bearing. As I got my wheel bearings in the mail yesterday, I set out to swap them right away. This time I picked up the truck from the frame rail. Rocked the tire back and forth from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and couldn't budge it. Bearing seemed ok for now. Jacked the truck back up by the control arm and sure enough the slop was back. Decided to replace the upper ball joint as it seemed the new weak link. Went to remove the 18mm nut on the ball joint and it was almost threaded completely off! Loc-tited those puppies, put the wheels back on and whammo, no more slop. So it's important to lift the truck from diff places to identify the weak link.:thumb:

I think most people dont realize how that bumpstop plays into the equation.

 

[BUST'EM 504]

I have cognito ucas so it does not sit on the bump stop. But I may just replace the lower ball joints. What's the life on the cognito upper ball joints??

 

[Chevy1925]

I have cognito ucas so it does not sit on the bump stop. But I may just replace the lower ball joints. What's the life on the cognito upper ball joints??

If you lift from the frame, they better be on the bumpstop. Thats the whole point behind the cognito arms is to allow more drop travel of the tires when leveled. If they are not, you need to find your hinderance asap cause something is getting beat up that shouldnt.

As far as their life expectancy, ive heard mixed reviews. Some only get 30k, others get more

 

[BUST'EM 504]

I'm sorry I misunderstood yes it's absolutely on the frame. I think I am going to chafe them it's about that time.

 

[BUST'EM 504]

No play in the wheels at 12 and 6 just change the upper and lower ball joints what else do I need to check.

 

[jlawles2]

With the truck on stands, jack up the tire and use a pry bar to check for play in the control arm bushings. The rubber can give out and cause all sorts of strange things.

Also check the yellow bump stops to see if they are in one piece. This can cause strange noises and make the front of the truck feel like it is "floating" when driving.

When my tie rod ends, pitman, and idler arm started going out, I could watch the center link move in a circular motion while moving one tire. Also the other side was stationary when I was doing this. The pitman and idler arms are critical to tire wear. As I noticed when mine went out, the tires can do strange things when they wear out.

You may also want to check the cab bushings. Frame flex and bad bushings cause strange noises. Carrier bearing (if present). Front CV boots and joints. Steering box (seems strange, but check mounting bolts and preload).

Sorry if it seems long winded, but I am / have chased several of these for days to find the noise.

 

[Andrew85]

When mine were bad my front tires wore bad also. I jacked the front end off the ground and took a pry bar and pried between the spindle and control arm right at the ball joint. If there is any movement the ball joint is shot.

 

[Andrew85]

When my tie rod ends, pitman, and idler arm started going out, I could watch the center link move in a circular motion while moving one tire. Also the other side was stationary when I was doing this. The pitman and idler arms are critical to tire wear.

My center link rotates when I turn one tire by hand with my front end in the air. I assumed this was normal due to the design of the factory center link. Is this not normal? My tires are wearing fine. I plan to upgrade my steering parts when I can afford to either way.

 

[yellowchevy]

My center link rotates when I turn one tire by hand with my front end in the air. I assumed this was normal due to the design of the factory center link. Is this not normal? My tires are wearing fine. I plan to upgrade my steering parts when I can afford to either way.

Are you pushing the tire inward? Does the other tire stay put?

My pitman and control arms were shot at 90k miles. I jacked up the front end and could push the one tire inward while the other wouldn't move. I replaced the lower ball joints and put cognito upper control arms while I was at it. The boots on the uppers and lowers were torn. That was an expensive repair and I did all the work myself, haha.

Yellowchevy