So the hose going into the bottle should be hooked up to the fuel rail? And this wont blow out at 20,000 PSI? Sorry guys, i'm trying really hard to understand how the fuel system works.
Anyone with a DF 165
- Thread starter Hellrazr78
- Start date
Ok guys, I just called PPE and i'm all squared up. I have some things to try and I will let you all know how I make out.
Yes, the hose that goes into the bottle is hooked up to the fuel rail. That hose is actually not used for the majority of the time, only when the FPRV lifts will anything come out of there.
And yes, it may come out at 20,000 psi... but by the time it passes around the FPRV and goes through any length of hose it will have lost pressure.
And yes, it may come out at 20,000 psi... but by the time it passes around the FPRV and goes through any length of hose it will have lost pressure.
It would be different if it was a gas or air.....Fluid looses its charge faster
so to speak.
Gm uses a low budget hose to return to the rail and dont have issues
returning to a bottle would even be less pressure on the line than the actual GM return line
If its leaking bad you dont want the bottle to overflow or tip over though as that might get ugly
grab a small fire ext. if you want to be on the safe side
Haha... I think even in the states they have both fluid ounces and mL on the bottles??? I know that they still call 2L pop bottle, 2L's.
What have I gotten myself into? Lol j/k. Gonna try this out today. I'll post back with results. Thanks guys. :cool2::hug:
Also, what is this pop of which you speak? I do love me some Soda though. Lmao
Ok. Did the old bottle test and came up with nothing. No fuel in the bottle. I did however forget to plug the stock return hose and quickly found my mistake. So what now? Fuel filter? Ported fuel fitting?
Could this mean that my FPRV could still pop being as i'm still losing rail pressre? What I mean is if I fix the issue, and I hold rail pressure, could it still pop it now that i'm at constant pressure?
Could this mean that my FPRV could still pop being as i'm still losing rail pressre? What I mean is if I fix the issue, and I hold rail pressure, could it still pop it now that i'm at constant pressure?
How do I go about that? Like i said, sorry for the newb questions. I am trying really hard to understand how to work on and diagnose the fuel systems on these trucks.
For starter just crack the plastic plug on the filter housing with the pump on truck off and see if you even have any pressure
If you do there is plenty of info if you search lift pump gauges Lots of ways
If you do there is plenty of info if you search lift pump gauges
Lots of ways
Kennedy Diesel sells a gauge that hooks up to the test port on the engine (right next to the alternator). With a lift pump, you should see positive pressure at all times. You can also buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the engine, either at the bleed screw port or with an adapter to the test port.
If you threw a code without getting any fuel in the bottle than the FPRV is fine and should be left alone. The next thing to check is positive pressure past the factory filter. If you don't have pressure change your fuel filter(s), if that doesn't help than your lift pump is suspect. If you have positive pressure then you are just demanding more fuel pressure than what your CP3 can keep up with based on the PW you are asking for and to fix it you will have to either ask for less pressure or less PW - typically keeping pressure above 21,000 is best.