Any turbo ls knowledge?
- Thread starter clrussell
- Start date
Been thinking same thing with my 01 burb 6.0/80 pretty sure Engine has been over heated by PO..
thinking bore/stroke to 408 4" stroke .030 small cam.. 01-04 lq4 had a 196/207~.467/.479 lift and ~300/380 hp/tq.. 210-220° .550-.600 lift would wake it up big time...
How far will Stock injectors go before you need to up those..
4-450 and be 87 octane capable is what I'd like
thinking bore/stroke to 408 4" stroke .030 small cam.. 01-04 lq4 had a 196/207~.467/.479 lift and ~300/380 hp/tq.. 210-220° .550-.600 lift would wake it up big time...
How far will Stock injectors go before you need to up those..
4-450 and be 87 octane capable is what I'd like
Really? First time I've heard that. I shoulda known I was wrong
Lmao. He was a royal pain in the ass for a couple of my friends. Well beyond what anyone should have to go through to get an update to a tune or simply communicate an issue. These weren't even full all out builds, just small stuff like the typical ls build or just tuning an 8.1.
They are terrible, slow retunes and not that good either. I'm using a local tuner but if it dosent work out I've developed a relationship with the guys at PCM...
You will need flex fuel injectors at the mimiunm, stock are like 26# I believe. You will run out of fuel under 400 stock....
Just decap the stock truck 6.0 injectors. They will flow close to 80# a larger fuel pump is a must.
Doooo ittttt. Just takes time if you are starting from scratch. Tune when not in boost, then when it's dialed, start slowly working up in boost. Watch knock sensors for knock, pull 2* of timing per lbs of boost then add or subtract as necessary depending on what the knock sensor says from 3k rpm on up. Keep afr on the rich side. Depending on how big of injector you go, only cut the fuel back by half of the increased fuel in the tables so you stay fairly rich, then start leaning out idle, cruise, light boost/throttle and heavy boost/throttle. Iirc, ls like to stay around 11.5 - 12.0 afr at wot in the upper rpm range depending on compression ratio and fuel used. Wouldn't hurt to go one range colder in plugs too.
Things get a little technical when you need to dail in closed loop driving. I've not played with that to give much but all of the above works well when in open loop (above 40% throttle or so)
Go check out the sloppy mechanics page. Lots of free info there on turbo ls stuff and free base tunes
Read the custom OS upgrade tutorial in the EFI Live documentation folder. It gives you the basics of what "new" tables you have for tuning boosted setups. If you need some help, just post up over on the EFI Live forums. There is some good help on there if you get stuck.
I'm new to this board and duramax, but turbo LS is my background. Stock 6l bottom end, LS6 cam or LJMS/BTR stage 2 turbo cam, BTR platinum dual springs, pushrods, BWS475 (I'd go 1.10a/r T6 flange) and some 60lb/hr injectors and run it. Oh, transgo kit for the 4l80e and let it eat. Any "pulls" or planning on pulling long hills in boost (5psi+) i would do as previously stated and drop down to 3rd gear. Leaving in OD/4th keeps the OD roller clutch engaged and the sprag isn't strong enough....granted mine lasted a year of leaving it in 4th all the time due to ignorance.
Decapping stock injectors without having them flow tested to get some data will make for a tuning nightmare and cause you to bake a lot of errors into you VE table.
I'd probably stay around 10psi on stock bottom end/stock ring gap with a s475. Kurt Urban Performance vapor system will help some to keep cyl 7 or 8 ringland from cracking.
I'd also suggest going 2bar speed density tuned, you could get away with running the maf and getting your target boost AFR in by using the Power Enrichment tables, but that's a bit of a workaround and wont net you good partial throttle AFR's, especially when you'll be in boost easily/fast when towing.
Decapping stock injectors without having them flow tested to get some data will make for a tuning nightmare and cause you to bake a lot of errors into you VE table.
I'd probably stay around 10psi on stock bottom end/stock ring gap with a s475. Kurt Urban Performance vapor system will help some to keep cyl 7 or 8 ringland from cracking.
I'd also suggest going 2bar speed density tuned, you could get away with running the maf and getting your target boost AFR in by using the Power Enrichment tables, but that's a bit of a workaround and wont net you good partial throttle AFR's, especially when you'll be in boost easily/fast when towing.
Just picked up an 02 1500 myself to set up as a play truck
gonna do 4l80e swap, truetrac, LJMS cam, BTR springs and Pushrods, Trick Performance turbo kit with an SXE476 turbo, 80lbs deka's, and a walbro 450 pump. would like to get around 600rwhp to start with then build a spare LQ4 engine i have sitting here.
:woott::woott:
gonna do 4l80e swap, truetrac, LJMS cam, BTR springs and Pushrods, Trick Performance turbo kit with an SXE476 turbo, 80lbs deka's, and a walbro 450 pump. would like to get around 600rwhp to start with then build a spare LQ4 engine i have sitting here.
:woott::woott:
No flow numbers for tuning decapped. Tuning would be difficult at best. Your better off with a quality set, I'd just buy 6.2 flex fuel injectors, they are 56# I believe... That's good for 600 rwhp on 93...
You send them off to get flowed. Stock 28lbs will be around 70lbs at 58 psi base pressure. A shop local to me will flow and clean for $125 so you know exactly what they flow and at what base pressure.
https://youtu.be/zD90VWBigLI
Can get a good set of Deka 80s for like $300. would rather spend a bit more money and get a solid product.