Help: Adding sub to factory Bose system

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zrider91r

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Apr 29, 2017
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Hey guys!
First post- only because searching didn't answer my question; so I apologize if this has been answered in the past!

This is NOT my first time adding a sub to a factory sound system, but this is the first time I've worked one up and had it not work!

SO-
I have the amp power/remote all worked up correctly to come on with the key, and I am using a line-out converted to give myself the RCA for the amp.

I just need to know what wires I should put my taps on, to confirm I used the right wires, or so I know what ones to swap my taps to.

It is a 2013 Chevy Duramax with Factory TouchScreen with Nav and the Bose System

Thanks guys!!


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gmduramax

gmduramax

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Jun 12, 2008
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You'd have to tap the factory sub wires. The door speakers do not have much bass going to them. You should get a Pac I believe it's called. Plugs into the back of your deck and it gives you RCA's and gives you power for the remote wire.
 
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zrider91r

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Apr 29, 2017
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gmduramax said:
You'd have to tap the factory sub wires. The door speakers do not have much bass going to them. You should get a Pac I believe it's called. Plugs into the back of your deck and it gives you RCA's and gives you power for the remote wire.
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Where is the factory sub at?
I assumed it had one but I don't see a factory sub anywhere.
If this was my personal truck I would spend the money on a PAC, but being it's a work truck I'm trying to go the cheap route. That way when the miles are to high and I get a new work truck it's a direct swap without having to get a different harness.


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2004LB7

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Oh, and it uses balanced audio so you my need a line converter to unbalanced if your new amp doesn't have a balanced audio input
 
gmduramax

gmduramax

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Jun 12, 2008
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zrider91r said:
Where is the factory sub at?
I assumed it had one but I don't see a factory sub anywhere.
If this was my personal truck I would spend the money on a PAC, but being it's a work truck I'm trying to go the cheap route. That way when the miles are to high and I get a new work truck it's a direct swap without having to get a different harness.


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Click to expand...

It's like $50 but it's in the center console
 
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TFD07

TFD
Aug 7, 2016
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Do you know which wires to splice into? Colors I mean, and which one can I splice for a remote? TIA


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TFD07

TFD
Aug 7, 2016
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That right there is pure badassery. Think my project just got set in motion lol


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TheDirty06

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Sep 28, 2014
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I deleted the stock sub all together and put in a JL Audio stealth sub box wired up my new amp and that was about it. Didn't mess with the factory wiring at all besides unclipping the sub from the harness
 
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TFD07

TFD
Aug 7, 2016
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Well I think I'm gonna keep the factory sub and amp. I'm working on my wiring right now. Never seen a write up for my specific year with the non luxury bose. Thinking bout doing one


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zrider91r

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Apr 29, 2017
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Here's how I got mine working.
I wanted to keep all factory speakers, and just wanted to add a Kicker amp and sub to the factory Bose system.

I pulled the center console to expose the amp. You have to take the metal plate off that protects the amp.
I also found out someone cut the wires to the factory sub so I wired that back up while I was in there.

If your looking at the amp from the back seat, the plug you will need to tap wires from will be the black one on the right hand (passenger) side.

Being I wanted to keep all factory speakers, I didn't want to cut any wires so I just used wire taps and the correct flat prong connectors that plug into them once they are closed on the wire.
I used speaker wire to go from the wire taps to my Line-Output Converter.

On the 2013 I tapped into the FRONT speakers because the rear weren't working well, and by that I mean the sub wasn't hitting very hard, probably because of the way the crossover is set up so there wasn't much bass coming from the rear speakers.


The 4 wires you'll need to tap into are:

Front Left:
+ Tan
- Dark Green

Front Right:
+ Light Green/White
- Orange/Black

If you're looking at the wires from the side they go into the plug they will be all the way to the right hand side, right beside a single white wire.

Tan and dark green will be stacked vertically, and right beside them will be orange/black and light green/white, also stacked vertically.

Once you tap those and wire them to your LOC you should be good to go.
For my remote I ran a wire up to the driver side and tapped into a wire near the fuse box using a wire tap as well.

I've been using the Scosche LOC from Walmart for my last few installs. The new one they have (its a black one with a remote gain control knob, not that opaque blue one they used to sell) is good quality and I have never had a bad one of these. It requires you to have a constant 12v, remote 12v and a ground, so I double stick tape it to the top of the amp, crimp forks to the 3 power/ground wires, and stick them into the corresponding spots on the amp with the amp power wires.


If y'all have any questions for me just ask!



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zrider91r

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Apr 29, 2017
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TFD07 said:
Well I think I'm gonna keep the factory sub and amp. I'm working on my wiring right now. Never seen a write up for my specific year with the non luxury bose. Thinking bout doing one


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Click to expand...



What year is yours?
I just added a kicker amp and sub to the Bose system in the 2013 I have.
I believe it was the "non luxury", as it looked like it based on the Factory amp style.

If you need help lemme know.



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TFD07

TFD
Aug 7, 2016
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@zrider91r, just got done with the install. I actually tapped different wires than what you'd originally said to tap. I was looking at the ones you'd said, but according to research I'd done previously if you tap those wires, the correct levels don't get sent to the amp (low). So I tapped 4 different wires. They were before the amp (that's what research had said to do) and went straight to the stock sub.

Thank you for your response. I think I'm getting too old for these installations lol


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