Haha..mine is a 4 speed so I'll probably kill the clutch when I get a new motor. This 305 is just weak...won't burn the tires at all...just doggy all around. When i bought it I thought it was a little gutless because the carb was running real rich or just cause I've driven a tuned diesel for the past 4 or so years haha...
77 K10 Build: The Tank
- Thread starter Akdiesel
- Start date
Well that search ended quick...talking with my neighbor he has a complete running 454 that he'll sell me for $400. Completely stock motor with 049 heads. Plan on cam, headers, intake, carb, valve springs and lifters. Any advice as to what setup to run?
I have a complete 81 silverado shortbed 4x4 with a 6" lift, new tires, recently rebuilt 350 with edelbrock Carb, and has headers. Body is straight, just needs a new rear axle because the gears are shot. I am letting it go for 2k. Has a clean title. May be cheaper to build this one than the one you have?
Wish I would have known that a few weeks ago haha. Just bought this...figure since my buddy has the motor and another buddy has a used crane 272 cam and an intake I could pick up used I should be able to do it up pretty good and relatively reasonably priced.
Those Comp Cam Xtreme 4x4 cams have some nice torque to them. I went from a high hp rpm cam down to one of those and it made a HUGE difference. And I know I'll get scolded on this but the best carb I have ever ran is a quadrajet. If you know how to build them ...
Quadrajets are the best for offroading. I used to have an edelbrock and a few holleys and they would always spill over and flood out at any kind of angle. I finally put the quadrajet back on and could almost get verticle on a steep trail and never flood out
when i first got my truck it was going to be a budget, fun ride. Now its not. This shit can get expensive too although it is still extremely cheaper than anything diesel. I need an underhood wiring harness, fuel cell, fuel pump, MSD ignition system, rev kit, full autometer gauges, racing seats, etc, etc, etc...Then after its running i will probably trash this TH350 within 100 miles. Then it will have to be built and a 4000 stall converter will be added.
Yeah I have been a member of 67-72chevytrucks forever. Gotta join up the 73-87 site. I'm not going to get too crazy with this truck. It was bought with some financial goals in mind. Only reason I'm making the 454 jump is cause it's what I've always wanted and I found a good deal 
Keeping it naturally aspirated and fun not a giant money pit
Keeping it naturally aspirated and fun not a giant money pit
sounds like fun.
I have an 8.1/ 4le85 and an 86 1/2 ton silverado...90 burb 3/4 running gear..hmmmm
must not build it, must resist.....
I have an 8.1/ 4le85 and an 86 1/2 ton silverado...90 burb 3/4 running gear..hmmmm
must not build it, must resist.....
Yeah i lived there my whole life...wanted out and joined the military and now after 8 years miss it enough I want to go back to and raise a family there...should be getting the motor within a week or so and will be updating with pictures and what not
10-12cc dome pistons brings it to ~9:1 with steel shim HG and 049 heads
min 1.88 exhaust vavles (30* ect temp drop
when reading ect at the head)dual plane intake could do the 2.19 valves would help top end.
230* @.050" .500-.600" cam im personally runing k-motion springs with a smale hyd flat tappet.. spending the money for a HR cam.. IMO will be worth it in the long run and better profiles..
im still runing 2.065 intake on mine stupid throttle response and low end torque dyno over 400lb at 2000rpm at the tires and 300hp
Do you have a writeup for the spring swap? I just bought an 85 rc/lb for a mud truck and I'm planning on getting started on it in a few weeksThose trucks are great to tinker with (and definitely a lot cheaper than the Dmax). Sucks about the motor ordeal though but you win some and lose some. The bouncing speedometer can be easily repaired. Its been a while since I fixed mine on my '77 but I believe there are two little fingers than run close to a magnet that spins. My fingers were starting to hit the magnet/rotor causing it to bounce. Just bent them slightly and fixed :thumb:
If your going for a good cheap trail rig I would definitely suggest doing the 52" spring swap like whats mentioned above. Can be done for basically free and it flexes WAY more than any lift springs out there:
This was taken before I put in the rear 64" springs which is still in process.
Take the rear springs put them on the front either build your own or order some b52. 64" rund on the dmax trucks with shackle flip in the rear. 4" lift rear shocks are 13" travel i will post a thread later to night on mine
I don't have a write up as I did the front springs in my welding class at Wyotech like 6 years ago. The front springs are off of the rear of my sisters '68 K5 Blazer but like what Adam said the rears off your truck or almost all of the 67-88 half ton trucks will work. Mine from the K5 had an overload which I ended up taking out and mixing and matching a few leafs to get the spring rate I wanted. Where I mounted everything netted me about 7" of lift. You're supposed to move both spring mounting points forward but I didn't have enough time in class to do that so I only ended up moving the front mounting point forward about half the required distance. Then making some new shackles. It still works great but at full suspension stuff the tires slightly rub the wheel liners/firewall. In that picture I actually had a dually front Dana 60 installed with the dually hubs still on. So that's why the driver's front tire appears to easily hit the fender. I'm happy with it though :thumb: And to correct what I said earlier I'm putting in 56" springs in the rear, not the 64's.
It's amazing the difference the 52" springs compare to any regular lift springs. If you want to drive it on the street afterwards I HIGHLY recommend a disconnectable sway bar setup, as the truck loves to lean and sway haha.
It's amazing the difference the 52" springs compare to any regular lift springs. If you want to drive it on the street afterwards I HIGHLY recommend a disconnectable sway bar setup, as the truck loves to lean and sway haha.
custom drivesaft (8-12" of travel) is must along with cross over steering, steering box brace.
i used ORD(off road design) and DIY4x for parts due to the fact i didnt have the time to make my stuff.
http://offroaddesign.com/
http://diy4x.com/
i did the 52 swap more for ride quality then anything.. with 35" tires it rides as smooth or smoother then an IFS truck plus ~12" worth of wheel travel almost isntantly
i used ORD(off road design) and DIY4x for parts due to the fact i didnt have the time to make my stuff.
http://offroaddesign.com/
http://diy4x.com/
i did the 52 swap more for ride quality then anything.. with 35" tires it rides as smooth or smoother then an IFS truck plus ~12" worth of wheel travel almost isntantly