if i was looking for the best possible fuel mileage and TQ for my DD i would go stroker no doubt.
Watch youself cause you are on the shit list. With your rep I would be in hiding.
if i was looking for the best possible fuel mileage and TQ for my DD i would go stroker no doubt.
So far as a daily driver its been great, no issues at all. The milage increased alot. He gets about 21 to 23mpg pulling his enclosed motorcycle trailer with 4 bikes in it. As far as sitting in traffic I had it a few weeks ago and it was 103* to 105* and we had the ac blowing and it stayed just under 210* all day.
I'm curious about a destoked dmax for higher RPMs??? Any thoughts? With some optimized air flow (serious flowing heads and exhaust and turbo setup) it should be plenty capable of making power and should be able to spin higher, easier shouldn't it? Of course, in theory. This might be what I looked into if I were a drag racer.
For pulling, I'd want the extra mass in the rotating assembly so stroking would be nice (assuming it adds weight to the rotating assembly) because the acceleration of the RPMs isn't as important as the actual peak and sustained RPM. Not so much the case for racing or least I think so. I'm no racer by any stretch but I'd think quicker revving would be more desirable for a racer.
c-ya
You are right and thats not just on paper. Strokers have been used for years for just that fact. This truck doesn't seem to need the same amount of fuel to do the same amount of work.in theory, the stroker shouldn't have to work as hard to make the same power as a lower displacement equivalent hp therefore shouldn't wear as much or as quickly as a standard dmax. HOWEVER, that is just on paper. Way too many variables to make that statement a reality IMO. If all, and I mean everything where exactly the same, then the stroker should be easier on parts to make the same power.
I'm curious about a destoked dmax for higher RPMs??? Any thoughts? With some optimized air flow (serious flowing heads and exhaust and turbo setup) it should be plenty capable of making power and should be able to spin higher, easier shouldn't it? Of course, in theory. This might be what I looked into if I were a drag racer.
I'm curious about a destoked dmax for higher RPMs??? Any thoughts? With some optimized air flow (serious flowing heads and exhaust and turbo setup) it should be plenty capable of making power and should be able to spin higher, easier shouldn't it? Of course, in theory. This might be what I looked into if I were a drag racer.
For pulling, I'd want the extra mass in the rotating assembly so stroking would be nice (assuming it adds weight to the rotating assembly) because the acceleration of the RPMs isn't as important as the actual peak and sustained RPM. Not so much the case for racing or least I think so. I'm no racer by any stretch but I'd think quicker revving would be more desirable for a racer.
c-ya
I'm curious about a destoked dmax for higher RPMs??? Any thoughts?
c-ya
I ran one of these a little while back in a past motor. It was called "To much power for the stock rods" :rofl: :rofl: J/K.
I'm sorry, I just had to do it. I do agree strongly with the "No replacement or displacement".
if i was looking for the best possible fuel mileage and TQ for my DD i would go stroker no doubt.
So far as a daily driver its been great, no issues at all. The milage increased alot. He gets about 21 to 23mpg pulling his enclosed motorcycle trailer with 4 bikes in it. As far as sitting in traffic I had it a few weeks ago and it was 103* to 105* and we had the ac blowing and it stayed just under 210* all day.
Here's the text:
· New 4330M Billet Crank +.250 Stroke Built to Top Fuel Standards.
· Knife Edged Counterweights.
· Redesigned And Improved Crankshaft Oiling Passages.
· Crower Billet Rods. (Optional Carrillo add $425)
· ATS Billet Flywheel. (SFI Approved For Competition Use)
· SoCal Diesel Super Damper. (SFI Approved For Competition Use)
· Mahle “Forged” Piston And Ring Kit. (Optional Thermal Barrier Coating $400)
· Choose from Std, +.020 (433ci) and +.040 (437ci) bore sizes.
· Mahle Clevite Inc. “H” Style Main and Rod bearings.
· Crank Gear Installed. (Included, Not shown)
· Rear Main Seal Included. (Included, Not Shown)
· Entire Assembly Digitally Balanced And Ready To Install In Your Block.
What Id like to see is a price breakdown of all these individual parts. I think if someone were to compare what buying all these parts individually costs compared to "in the kit", theyd see it is probably a better deal like this.
As for the cu in debate....all one has to do is look to the Chevy 383 stroker kits to see what can be done, and the results. Larger displacement will make more power with the same effort.
so aside from the 13,000 $ price tag are there any cons?
so aside from the 13,000 $ price tag are there any cons?
I went for a ride in an LBZ stroker and the only thing I noticed was it sounded more like a diesel. That's all I could come up with, but thats a pro for me.
It was a twin truck, 366/480 and it was mild mannered until your right foot told it otherwise.
is that guy on here? id like to ask him a few questions
what does he see for mpg while not towing and what about larger loads? 10k plus