650hp build lbz

[craigger13]

Not sure if this is where it should be but looking at 650-700hp and yes I know the bottom won't hold forever but how long? Won't be extremely hard on it only maybe a couple times a year hook it up to a sled otherwise its a farm truck pulling a gooseneck.

So far the parts list is:
Arp head studs
Twin turbo with s475 1.32 ( do I need a bov or wast gate)
40% injectors
Lift pump
10mm stroked cp3
Built trans

And if it needs to be pulled back to 550-600 I'm fine with that until I can afford a built bottom end.
Is there anything else I should do to help it live a little longer?

 

[minerigger]

You have fuel and you have air added. Your playing with fire imo and your right foot will dictate the lifespan. Tuning will play a big role in surviving along with that right foot I mentioned other wise it's a guessing game. Nobody on here can give you a time frame on how long it will last

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[hondarider552]

Do some research. Lbz's Crack pistons like it's going out of style. No one can answer that. My first LBZ has 96k miles of 600hp+ to the ground and still living, 3 owners later. Seen a lmm Crack a piston at 15k miles.

 

[craigger13]

I thought the cracking pistons were mostly due to trying to add to much fuel over to long of time per cycle? What do you guys suggest is a maximum safe power on stock bottom end? I've heard and read anything from 500-700 so to me it sounds like some people get lucky and others don't. I've had a lbz with 300,000 miles with no issues and a lmm that had 720,00 when I sold it with no issues granted they were both bone stock besides exhaust.

 

[coker6303]

Some get lucky. Keep that in mind and enjoy it! Don't let the negative guys get you all worked up!

Little fuel, little air and you will be all over that 600+ goal

 

[Ne-max]

This is what sucks. People throw around dyno numbers like all dynos read the same. You CAN NOT compare your truck to others. Dyno brand, loaded or non loaded, correction factor, operator, and crank or rear wheels all make numbers change. Just build it to be good at what you want it to do.

 

[hondarider552]

But diesel power magazine said....:rofl:

 

[S Phinney]

A s300 charger and head studs is all you need to get what you are asking out of it. It probably won't be safe. Anything stock isn't safe. Opinions will vary all over the place on what's safe.

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[craigger13]

After the bottom end is built what kind of numbers will this amount of fuel and air support? the reason I'm looking at twins is to keep egt's in check while towing or am I looking at this wrong?

 

[DMAXchris]

My engine lasted 1.5 yr at 600ish rwhp.

Twins will definitely keep the egts down. Building the motor will not increase your power. That combo is good for 7-750 cranked up the whole way.

 

[malibu795]

I thought the cracking pistons were mostly due to trying to add to much fuel over to long of time per cycle? What do you guys suggest is a maximum safe power on stock bottom end? I've heard and read anything from 500-700 so to me it sounds like some people get lucky and others don't. I've had a lbz with 300,000 miles with no issues and a lmm that had 720,00 when I sold it with no issues granted they were both bone stock besides exhaust.

I cracked an LBZ with ~150k with less then stock HP (ran a van version that started life at 250hp put a little tow tune on it...) and a LMM with 222k @400hp.
Replaced both with mahle pistons.

 

[aklbz]

I would recommend pistons and rods. Not much sense in spending thousands and not being able to use the potential power you'll be able to make with twins. Maybe Consider a big single over twins and possibly beefing up the known failing points. Twin kits are pricey, Bottom line is tuning and how you are going to drive it I would say.


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[LWATSON]

I'd leave the CP3 stock. With the twins and some 60% over injectors you'll be really close to your goal and You will have a very fun truck. I'd forget about the dyno #.

 

[aklbz]

Definitely recommend a lift pump if you aren't already running one.


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[craigger13]

I would recommend pistons and rods. Not much sense in spending thousands and not being able to use the potential power you'll be able to make with twins. Maybe Consider a big single over twins and possibly beefing up the known failing points. Twin kits are pricey, Bottom line is tuning and how you are going to drive it I would say.

I'd be building my own twin kit as this is going in a 53 chevy. I will be building the bottom end just probably not right away being the cost of the rest of the project.

 

[craigger13]

I'd leave the CP3 stock. With the twins and some 60% over injectors you'll be really close to your goal and You will have a very fun truck. I'd forget about the dyno #.

Won't the stock cp3 run low on pressure running that far over?

 

[craigger13]

Definitely recommend a lift pump if you aren't already running one.


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Will be running one. What one do you guys prefer??

 

[aklbz]

I'm running a PPE 160gph. I built a filter setup like the one Burn Down has posted in the forum somewhere. Id say go with a raptor or PPE and make your own filter setup in the frame rail next to the lift pump. Cheaper then buying a FASS or Airdog setup. The PPE seems to work great and the way I have it mounted I can't hear it in the cab at idle.


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[LWATSON]

Won't the stock cp3 run low on pressure running that far over?

With the right tuning it will be a good running truck. I've had very good luck with this combo.

 

[TheBac]

Won't the stock cp3 run low on pressure running that far over?

Some will take it, some wont. You wont really know until you try.
Does your CP3 drop rail on your higher-hp tunes at this time?

As for HP, I guess Im one of those "negative" guys.
Its your truck, so you can do what you want....just have funds for the rebuild (or another engine) ready for when the engine does go.