Took my truck to the track for the first time with the new setup Friday night. I'm wondering if switching to coil overs up front will help with 60' times. Currently running rancho 9k's front and back. These runs were on 305/50/r20 toyo proxes st2's, fronts @ 35 psi and rears @ 30 psi. I've attached the time slips. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been reading/learning on this forum for years, my truck wouldn't be where it is today without the motivation from this forum!
60' questions.
- Thread starter 2themax2
- Start date
What else other than the 9000s have you done to the suspension (front and rear) so far?
Very nice times on street tires. You just might be to the point that better tires would be the first option.
Very nice times on street tires. You just might be to the point that better tires would be the first option.
The front end has kryptonite UCA's, kryptonite tie rods, kryptonite straight centerlink, and braces. The overloads have been pulled and traction bars in the rear. I have 30 X 14 M&H cheater slicks but didn't have time to get them on the truck prior to the track closing.
They do, you just never got the suspension dialed in enough. There was a lot left in your setup that wasn't allowing them to shine
OP, adjustable valving is more of a help over just doing a coilover swap. The ranchos are ok but are not the best setup for a track truck. It's a big combo of things to get nice 60ft. You can cheat here and there with some parts over others but for all out best, it will take dialing in of all the drag specific parts (dual adjustable shocks, cal tracs, cheater slicks, weight reduction, converter choice, and driver input).
I have a question about 60' times. How many tenths of a second can you shave off your et by cutting a quicker 60'.
Let's say you can go from 1.7 to a 1.5, for those two tenths is that like the same amount cut from your over all et?
Let's say you can go from 1.7 to a 1.5, for those two tenths is that like the same amount cut from your over all et?
At a minimum yes if the runs are consistent, like trans shifts great every pass, rail pressure is good, etc. Some say you pick up more on the big end, but I'm not 100% sold on that theory with our heavy trucks.
Rob said years ago that its about 1.5 at top for every .1 in the 60. But like Harbin said, those would be on comparable runs.
2themax, Id try to optimize what you already have first, before throwing money at parts you may not need. Its all about how your combo works together.
Do you get a lot of wheel spin off the line? If looking at video, does the front "pop" up at start or is it gradual, and does the rear squat (how much)?
I could cut 1.6x on Toyos with QA1 up front and Caltracs in back.
Shocks are on 7 up front and 5 in the rear. The track doesn't get prepped for the street legal drags.
TheBac, they spin a little in first and again when I hit second. In the video it looks like the front end comes up quite a bit?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2b4sodh7wU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1bJ8JlaJAc
TheBac, they spin a little in first and again when I hit second. In the video it looks like the front end comes up quite a bit?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2b4sodh7wU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1bJ8JlaJAc
There's a lot of wheel hop in the second vid. You really need caltracs. And a little off topic but is the exhaust coming up from the middle of your bed?
The ass end is squatting more than the front is lifting. IMHO, you have too much ass end squat going on too fast. Turn the shocks up more in the rear and see how it does.
Tire pressure will help a lot. Remember tire pressure when the truck is sitting in the pits means nothing. One of the big reasons people get wheel hop (if already have some sort of traction bars) is front to back tire pressure.
So many people run higher pressure in the front than the back, why? Because it looks right when the truck is sitting still, this is wrong. You have already lost by creating a poor front to rear gear ratio. When the truck launches the rears take a lot of the hit, basically reducing the diameter. The front lifts and the front tire now expands, increasing the diameter. Thus you have created two different gear ratios. The fronts now have to spin or break the t-case. Once the fronts spin, the rears have to follow and you have created a bouncing hobbie horse.
With stiff/short side wall tires, I would recommend trying equal psi to start and work the opposite of what most will tell you. Go-Pros will tell you a lot if you hook one up to see the tires during a run.
Also don't deny physics by trying to stop weight travel. Make it work in your favor. You have 4 tires on the ground, racers should give this some thought. Once you start picking up the front tire, then new tactics will need to be applied.
So many people run higher pressure in the front than the back, why? Because it looks right when the truck is sitting still, this is wrong. You have already lost by creating a poor front to rear gear ratio. When the truck launches the rears take a lot of the hit, basically reducing the diameter. The front lifts and the front tire now expands, increasing the diameter. Thus you have created two different gear ratios. The fronts now have to spin or break the t-case. Once the fronts spin, the rears have to follow and you have created a bouncing hobbie horse.
With stiff/short side wall tires, I would recommend trying equal psi to start and work the opposite of what most will tell you. Go-Pros will tell you a lot if you hook one up to see the tires during a run.
Also don't deny physics by trying to stop weight travel. Make it work in your favor. You have 4 tires on the ground, racers should give this some thought. Once you start picking up the front tire, then new tactics will need to be applied.