4 Linked Duramax Thread
- Thread starter TrentNell
- Start date
i like you man but ur crazy!! youve got to give me a ride in that thing when you are done!! :happy2:nice work!!
Looks good Trent, what bed are you going with, a regular short bed or the even shorter one off the 1/2 ton CC? What do you think it will weigh when you are done?
I am just running bare bedsides/gutted the bed that was on the truck . I am hoping weight will be 5400-5500 lbs including driver after all the measures i have done to remove weight , I know how much weight i have removed ( 600-650 lbs ) but havent weighed what has went back on , just the bed being gutted and the 4link/shortening frame ect should be worth a 300-400 lbs reduction If my guestimates are right . other weight saving measures are front coil overs , hood stack , and AC deleted .Sadly i wont know untill i get it finished and head for the scales .
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Im gonna say 5340lbs
Remove the safety air bags and there is another 50+
LOOK OUT MAXED OUT
Trent, what'd you weigh in at before? Wasnt it around 6300lbs (same kind of weight reduction I do plus a couple things?) IMO, you'll be around 5700lbs when you're through.
Tell ya what, Im majorly impressed that you have the balls to build this truck without any formal suspension/racecar building training.
Tell ya what, Im majorly impressed that you have the balls to build this truck without any formal suspension/racecar building training.
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I managed to get the truck down to 6050 lbs with me in itif i remember right I know it was under 6100 , if my local landfill scale was right , i gutted it and weighed it right before my last pass . That is a COMPLETELY gutted interior and anything else i could loose .
It doesnt take much Balls to do this Tom , It isnt a bad project ,pretty fun really, but time consuming making it all from scratch with limmited fabrication tools . pretty much a Oxy Accetaline torch , arc wleder , and bench grinder , drill press , and of course know how to use all of it and must be a good welder , not the kind of thing you want to have a weld break on .
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OK, based on your starting weight, 5400lbs should be a decent estimate.
Sorry about the "balls" comment. A poor choice of wording. I am impressed, though. Certainly something Id never attempt....but fun to "watch".:thumb:
Sorry about the "balls" comment. A poor choice of wording. I am impressed, though. Certainly something Id never attempt....but fun to "watch".:thumb:
One thing sticks out to me. You might wanna rotate the panhard mounts on the drivers side making the axis of movement parallel to the pass side. The way you have it now when the housing moves up or down it will bind the bar.
To see this in real life simply unbolt the pass side of the bar and raise it up and down as if the suspension was moving up and down.
To see this in real life simply unbolt the pass side of the bar and raise it up and down as if the suspension was moving up and down.
Rick , I cylceled the chassis up and down with the Hoist +4 to -4 " and i didnt notice any bind , I will have to check it out a bit more just to be safe and see if it needs changing . I cant go down any lower on the frame mount or else it hits the rear diff cover . Well i guess i can but not without making new axle housing bracket . If it doesnt bind i would like to leave it as is but do have a design in mind to fix the issue that i will probably do just to be safe . I will check into Rick I do apreciate the input .
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And I was just thinking how my old man thinks I'm nuts for doing the stuff I've done to old trucks.:rofl: Looks good but I dont think I could cut up a truck that new that wasnt wrecked and being rebuilt. I hope it works out well for you.:thumb:
It looks like it will bind to me too.
You can keep the same location. Just make a "C" bracket welded to the end of the frame. It would end up looking a lot like the front leaf spring mount that you removed from the frame. Just smaller.
Coming along nicely.
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That is what i had in mind as well , weld a flat bracket off the end of the frame , hang the tabs off of it, and then triangulate it into were the tabs are currently weld to now . it didnt bind when i tested it , but the rear end isnt going to have but 8" of travel so 4" down or up is all it has too travel , but i agree with you guys it should be done the right way .
If you're going to be redoing the mount anyway, might I suggest you drop the frame end of the panhard bar mount so the bar is parallel to the ground at ride height? That will keep side to side axle movement to a minimum. Looking good so far. :thumb:
Trent, everything is looking good... one thing though. i would take that panhard bar off and put a vee bar setup from on top of the axle(center and connect the two legs at the top holes of the frame brackets you welded on. my $.02