4-6" lift kit & drag racing

custom8726

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
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Upstate N.Y
jonathancasey19 said:
I'll need to make some spring clamps. Someone care to share dimensions, parts required, local place to buy? Thanks
Click to expand...

Go to your local spring shop and have them bend you some shorty U bolts. Then have them cut you a couple pieces of leef spring, drill 4 holes and your done:thumb: Or you could just use two pieces of plate steel with bolts but its a bit more of a PITA to take them on and off...
 
Drew92

Drew92

New member
Aug 31, 2011
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A couple buddies of mine run lifts for racing. They both are 4" tuff country's cranked down with negative angles and 5' bars. Nothing special done to the front. One truck went 10.93 in the 1/4 with quite a bit left to go.
 
Chaseum

Chaseum

"Learning"
Mar 29, 2009
36
0
0
Savannah
I have a 6" CST lift and 35's. I put the stock keys back in to get the front down further the keys in the CST kit. I also have the Cognito idler pivot assembly, traction bars, transfer case brace; and will soon make limiting straps and clamps for the front of the rear springs.

I broke the dual cardon shaft before so I was thinking of the CCI driveshaft in addition to getting a centerlink if it works with the CST kit.

I currently have SoCal's mild build with street port heads and .40 over injectors. I also have PPE's dual cp3's, raptor lift pump and maximized performance twin kit using the stock turbo and the 76mm top turbo. Will this be enough to launch my truck (I was hoping to use the high idle mod to launch w/ the TTS converter)?

Lastly, if this isn't enough, what else will I need? My truck is almost ready to run after being down since 2006.
 
adeso

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
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Minot, ND
I would think you would want 60 over sticks, but 40 will still be lots of fun. The big thing is start off slow, or even a non boosted launch in 4 high and see how she does. If you are low enough in the front (so slight neg angle on the CVs to 0 angle) you shouldn't need the limit straps.

The centerlinks do help, I don't really like my straight centerlink. it does stop any of the roll on it, but it also makes the tires fight when I turn. get lots of :confused: looks when I'm trying to turn in a tight parking lot and the tires are bawling. I hear good things about the kryptonite setup.

I would have to look what the socal mild built is, but I think it would take more power than your current air and injector setup can throw at it-so the engine shouldn't be a factor as long as you don't push the IHI too hard and frag it
 
Chaseum

Chaseum

"Learning"
Mar 29, 2009
36
0
0
Savannah
I should have went ahead and went bigger on the sticks but didn't know at the time. My build is st1 ported heads/beehive springs, slightly decompressed cut & coated stock pistons, forged rods, stock crank/cam+key; headstuds/mainstuds on LBZ block.

If I get a SLIGHTLY positive angle on the CV's (So i'm not completely raked), would the straps help at all?

What should I expect w/ this setup and how much boost do you think I can leave on the street with?
 
adeso

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
what tires do you have? the straps are there to prevent it from breaking if it over travels, I still feel that limit straps are a bandaid to cover up a incorrect suspension setup. Good shocks will do a lot to help (stiff will let it flex but slow it way down so it won't go as far vs the straps that let it go free until it impacts against the strap)
You will want a lower than normal tire PSI also, you want the tire contract area flat as the truck is leaving the line.

Your engine should be good for 60-80 over sticks and a 480/366 setup. With what you have now just watch overdriving the IHI (you shouldn't with the 40 overs)
 
Chaseum

Chaseum

"Learning"
Mar 29, 2009
36
0
0
Savannah
I have the 35" Toyo A/T's and dual fox 2.0 shocks. When I bought the injectors, I went with what was recommended at the time w/ my current setup; unfortunately, I did not think about getting larger for the future. Lastly, I never planned on running the larger chargers because I was told I would lose a lot of the "fun" with a powerful lifted street truck (not to mention the price).
 
SSchmi5519

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
Chaseum said:
how do you not break your front driveshaft; what is it the lift like w/out keys?
Click to expand...

It looks just like it does in my sig pic. Front end is real soft. Never had any prop shaft issues.

Edit: More info on the sig pic. It is front 4-6 kit with no torsion key bolts, and the rear is a 2" block with the overload removed.
 
Chaseum

Chaseum

"Learning"
Mar 29, 2009
36
0
0
Savannah
what boost are you leaving at? I guess I "could" run the stock driveshaft but the problem with my stock driveshaft is that I get the vibration over 45 with the 6" CST lift.
 
SSchmi5519

SSchmi5519

LLY Cult Leader
Oct 19, 2008
3,387
1
36
Arizona
I had vibes with my old 7-9 kit, but none on this one.

I leave at 12psi on the 472, not sure what that equates to on the stock charger since this was swapped at the same time that was done.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,645
5,785
113
Phoenix Az
Chaseum said:
what boost are you leaving at? I guess I "could" run the stock driveshaft but the problem with my stock driveshaft is that I get the vibration over 45 with the 6" CST lift.
Click to expand...

mine has vibed as you describe for the last 7 years and still going.
 
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