3 broken torque converters!

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
Wondering if anyone has any suggestions? I've gone throw 3 torque converters in 9 months. The first 2 where made by Ats. They where the billet triple disc converters. The first one lasted to the 2nd day after the full trans build. It "broke" after a half throttle pull down the road. Now when I say broke I mean the converter from then on made a horrific rattle noise when in park, neutral, or while coasting to a stop. All the gears where still there and lockup still worked. Called got it warrantied. Stop driving the truck 2 weeks later pulled the trans replaced converter. Flushed line found some metal in fluid. Pulled pan down all was clean changed both filters for fun. Spin on did have some metal. After installing 2nd Ats converter drove about a 150 miles then took the truck from New York to Tennessee for a week. Everything was working fine no noise or anything wierd. Finally got some time to play. Got on a quite road stop and put it to the wood. Made a great pull throw 3rd gear had overdone the speed limit by a few times. Turned the truck around and went home. When I got home and put it in park the noise was back. Same rattle drove the truck to and from work next day rattle doubled in strength. Still had all the gears and lick up but knew I had killed something in the converter. After some complaining got the people I bought the trans kit and converter from to send me another brand of converter since I was tired of breaking the Ats converters. About 2 weeks later got a dpc full billet triple disc in the mail. Did the swap again. Again metal in the cooling circuit. Flush lines and coolers. Replaced all filters.that was a 7 months ago since then there was a few full throttle pulls. 2 sled pulls and one track day with 6 passes leading to a 12.8 all has been great till about 2 weeks ago. Drove to work normally park. Work my shift went out to start the truck and let it warm up since it was 0 outside. The truck went into high idle for about 15 minutes. When I went to get in the was a horrible smell almost like a sewer. Got in and started home. About 5 miles in noticed the trans temp was 230. As I went it climbed to 250. Pulled over graves bolth lines at trans cooler one burn the hell out of me while the other was ice. Shut the truck down. Got a ride home to grab some tools and when I returned I bypassed the cooler to get home temp stayed at 170? That was about 1am. So next day went out fired it up to warm up so I could see what was going on after 15 minutes in high idle temp started to go high. Around 200. Felt lines again both sides cool. Lower rad hot top cool. Ok now the rad trans cooler was plugged. Ordered new gm rad and a ppe cooler. While installing found metal in fluid? Pulled pan nothing but clean fluid that was burnt but no metal. At this point I thought that maybe just maybe the 2 Ats converters and sent metal into the coolers that I never got out now 7 months later somehow got together and plugged the coolers. We'll after installing a 1000 dollars worth of radiator and ppe aux cooler. Test drive truck all was normal. No slipping in any gear no probloem with lock up no matter the load. Temp was average about 140 after 30 minutes of driving. That lasted 3 days the temp went up again to 200 on a 15 degree day normal driving. Now both line coming right out the trans where cool. Knew I was screwed. Pulled the trans out. Converter was purple speed sensor in bellhouseing was melted. Stator support chewed, pump and a large metal flake inside it wich scored it all up bad. All the brass bushings towards the front where beat up. All the cluch packs where mint except they now had metal flakes imbedded into the. As far down inside the converter I can see is beat up good. Talk to Phil from dpc thinks I may have gone throw a bearing inside the converter. It's on it's way to him now. The question in this long story is why am I killing all these converters inside. They have always worked but had metal poring from inside them? Not sure what to think. It's going to cost a boat load to fix and the what. Another converter going to come apart inside? Sorry again for the length of this post, the bad spelling and grammar just shoot over the issue. If anyone has any advise I would like to here it thanks, Anthony
 
Last edited:

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,611
1,868
113
Mid Michigan
Wondering if anyone has any suggestions?

I've gone throw 3 torque converters in 9 months.

The first 2 where made by Ats. They where the billet triple disc converters.
The first one lasted to the 2nd day after the full trans build. It "broke" after a half throttle pull down the road.
Now when I say broke I mean the converter from then on made a horrific rattle noise when in park, neutral, or while coasting to a stop. All the gears where still there and lockup still worked.
Called got it warrantied. Stop driving the truck 2 weeks later pulled the trans replaced converter. Flushed line found some metal in fluid. Pulled pan down all was clean changed both filters for fun. Spin on did have some metal.

After installing 2nd Ats converter drove about a 150 miles then took the truck from New York to Tennessee for a week. Everything was working fine no noise or anything wierd.
Finally got some time to play. Got on a quite road stop and put it to the wood. Made a great pull throw 3rd gear had overdone the speed limit by a few times. Turned the truck around and went home.
When I got home and put it in park the noise was back. Same rattle drove the truck to and from work next day rattle doubled in strength. Still had all the gears and lick up but knew I had killed something in the converter.
After some complaining got the people I bought the trans kit and converter from to send me another brand of converter since I was tired of breaking the Ats converters.

About 2 weeks later got a dpc full billet triple disc in the mail. Did the swap again. Again metal in the cooling circuit. Flush lines and coolers. Replaced all filters.
that was a 7 months ago since then there was a few full throttle pulls. 2 sled pulls and one track day with 6 passes leading to a 12.8 all has been great till about 2 weeks ago.
Drove to work normally park. Work my shift went out to start the truck and let it warm up since it was 0 outside. The truck went into high idle for about 15 minutes.
When I went to get in the was a horrible smell almost like a sewer. Got in and started home. About 5 miles in noticed the trans temp was 230. As I went it climbed to 250. Pulled over graves bolth lines at trans cooler one burn the hell out of me while the other was ice.
Shut the truck down. Got a ride home to grab some tools and when I returned I bypassed the cooler to get home temp stayed at 170? That was about 1am.

So next day went out fired it up to warm up so I could see what was going on after 15 minutes in high idle temp started to go high. Around 200. Felt lines again both sides cool. Lower rad hot top cool. Ok now the rad trans cooler was plugged.
Ordered new gm rad and a ppe cooler. While installing found metal in fluid? Pulled pan nothing but clean fluid that was burnt but no metal.
At this point I thought that maybe just maybe the 2 Ats converters and sent metal into the coolers that I never got out now 7 months later somehow got together and plugged the coolers.
We'll after installing a 1000 dollars worth of radiator and ppe aux cooler. Test drive truck all was normal. No slipping in any gear no probloem with lock up no matter the load. Temp was average about 140 after 30 minutes of driving.

That lasted 3 days the temp went up again to 200 on a 15 degree day normal driving. Now both line coming right out the trans where cool. Knew I was screwed. Pulled the trans out. Converter was purple speed sensor in bellhouseing was melted. Stator support chewed, pump and a large metal flake inside it wich scored it all up bad. All the brass bushings towards the front where beat up. All the cluch packs where mint except they now had metal flakes imbedded into the.
As far down inside the converter I can see is beat up good. Talk to Phil from dpc thinks I may have gone throw a bearing inside the converter. It's on it's way to him now.

The question in this long story is why am I killing all these converters inside. They have always worked but had metal poring from inside them? Not sure what to think.
It's going to cost a boat load to fix and the what. Another converter going to come apart inside?
Sorry again for the length of this post, the bad spelling and grammar just shoot over the issue.
If anyone has any advise I would like to here it thanks, Anthony

Sounds like you had internal issues with the trans itself, and crud from that problem trashed the converters. I am not a trans expert by any means, so keep that in mind.
Plugged cooler, too.
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 12, 2006
15,681
232
63
Fullerton CA
Sounds like you had internal issues with the trans itself, and crud from that problem trashed the converters. I am not a trans expert by any means, so keep that in mind.
Plugged cooler, too.

I don't think so. I will leave it at that.
 

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
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THEFERMANATOR

LEGALLY INSANE
Feb 16, 2009
3,890
44
48
44
ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
looks to me like the converter got installed wrong, not seated all the way, or just a bad one from the looks of the pump. it looks like it got run while the pump was being thrust back into the seperator plate. i would say your ats converters started the damage, and it just snowballed from there taking out your 3rd converter.
 

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
The converter was deff installed Fully seated all 3 times. The damage to the pump was cause by a metal shard that got in between the pump and plate. But I guess there's a chance the first 2 converters caused the 3rd but it took 7 months and 9000 miles?
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 12, 2006
15,681
232
63
Fullerton CA
looks to me like the converter got installed wrong, not seated all the way, or just a bad one from the looks of the pump. it looks like it got run while the pump was being thrust back into the seperator plate. i would say your ats converters started the damage, and it just snowballed from there taking out your 3rd converter.

If the converter was installed wrong, there would be an even metal transfer on the pump drive gear and wear plate. Trans would not live long at all. The damage shows a piece of metal got transferred to the pump wear plate in one spot and the pump drive gear rotated on it. That's why you see the geared machined down and not the plate.
The pump bushing looks totally worn out and if it was not replaced at time of converter change; it might have helped causing this damage.
I'm not a fan of either converter companies.
 

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
What converter would you recommend. I really can't go thru this again. I'm spending way to much repairing something I built to not break.
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 12, 2006
15,681
232
63
Fullerton CA
What converter would you recommend. I really can't go thru this again. I'm spending way to much repairing something I built to not break.

I'm not convinced the converter choice is your only issue. I think the pump bushing was wasted from the get go. Buy a new pump from Allison ( less than 200.00 ). make sure both dowl pins are in the block ( not in the trans ).
Strip trans down and pull every valve out in the stator support and valve body.
As far as converter choice; I use only Goerend or Suncoast. I'm not interested in using any other company.:D
 

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
Where can you get a allison pump. I got the gm# and I can't find it for less that 320 + shipping? The real hit is the stator support is 1100 new
 

Tothemax

xgmtech
Oct 16, 2014
607
8
18
new york
Was wondering if everyone who has a built trans and reads this thread can give there converter brand and how long it's be in and dependable. Thanks